Thread: Cypress timber framing - green or seasoned?

Originally Posted by Goddert

I'm getting quotes on cypress framing timber. A couple of people have told me to get it as green as possible, because it is much easier to work, particularly nailing, and less likely to split at the ends. However a local mill has a large stock of cypress that seems to be pretty seasoned, and might well be cheaper just because it is local.

What do people think? Should I get fresh cut, or go with the local seasoned stuff if the price is right?

Goddert

I'd go with the local. There will be little difference. So far I am aware there is no kiln dried cypress being sold so the seasoning will be in racks at the mill or at the timber suppliers. If you nail at the ends green without pilot drilling fair chance with cypress it will split as it dries out anyway. It is not that bad to work with unless it is really old - it is a relatively hard timber, but gets very brittle as the distinctive smelling oils dry out. The sawdust can be an irritant to some people. That takes many years though - not just a few months in a yard. Watch out for the rating too - unseasoned is usually only rated at F4-F5 whereas seasoned will be at F5-F7.

I'd say go as green as possible and don't forget to get shear nails thats the ones without a point on them

Originally Posted by Canetoad

I'd say go as green as possible and don't forget to get shear nails thats the ones without a point on them

Use a lot of cypress in WA do they? My advice still stands - and shear nails are not need for general use on cypress IMO. Guns work fine and if you are manually nailing then a quick tap on the sharp end of the nail before you send it home will stop splitting.

BTW - Goddert on the more structural questions you'll often find a visit to the sister Forum at http://www.renovateforum.com/index.php will be more helpful (although many forum members, like me, use both).

Had a bit of experience with Cypress framing. If you want to use a hammer to nail it then it MUST be green or ot will split and shatter.

Dry or seasoned Cypress and green Cypress will nail well with an air nailer.

Might pay you to get a couple of pieces of the local dry stuff, grab an air nailer and give it a try.

as far as i'm aware i don't know of any cypress used in wa. However like a lot of people over here in the west i haven't lived here that long. When I lived in SE QLD i spent enough years framing in cypress to know that given a choice i would choose green cypress and shear nails. Artme is probably right it would be worth getting a couple of sample pieces from the mill to see how splitty and dry the timber available is.
Ben

Thanks guys for the advice. Sorry about the delay in responding - I'm trying to do three things at once and got caught up in something. I am thinking of going with the local supplier even though is price is considerably higher than that quoted for what may be somewhat greener material.

Bloss, I have found out that the significant local supply came about because of cancelled export orders at the beginning of the year, so it can't be all that old. And there is the advantage that he is local, and quick to respond, so I can get additional material quickly if I run short.

Good idea Artme, to get some samples and try them with an air nailer. I've already arranged to pick some up tomorrow and will see how it goes. Just have to find a source of shear nails of the right specs.

I did have a look at the renovation forum and a few other discussion groups, but as regards cypress they mostly came up with the issues you guys have raised.

Does anyone have any views on whether it is useful to seal the ends as I cut it?

I'm also wondering about driving self tapping screws into it to fix the custom orb wall cladding. Is this likely to cause splitting (those screws are way fatter than a nail), and would I be wise to spend the time to pre-drill for these.

Thanks again for all the input. Having grown up on a farm and built a lot of hardwood framed farm buildings I though I knew what I was doing getting into owner building, but the learning curve is very steep.

Originally Posted by Goddert

Does anyone have any views on whether it is useful to seal the ends as I cut it?

Only really useful for exposed timber. Not much point otherwise.

I'm also wondering about driving self tapping screws into it to fix the custom orb wall cladding. Is this likely to cause splitting (those screws are way fatter than a nail), and would I be wise to spend the time to pre-drill for these.

My experience has been that it does cause splitting on dry cypress ... it might be ok on green. Suck it and see.

Well, I got a couple of sample lengths of the stud material from the local supplier. Nice looking frames - wonder if "exposed framing" is an option just o enjoy the grain?

But seriously ..... took it over to my mate's place and tried out some 75mm shear nails in his air nail gun (these are 100x50 studs). Nails went a little less than half way into the timber!! Tried three times and always the same. Replaced the shear nails with points and they went in full depth.

What now? Is it that the timber is too dry? Is the gun underpowered?

Has anybody used an air gun on cypress framing with shear nails? What were the specs of the gun?

Look forward to some suggestions - I have to get the order in early next week so that I have some hope of having the timber to start the week after Easter.

Originally Posted by Goddert

Well, I got a couple of sample lengths of the stud material from the local supplier. Nice looking frames - wonder if "exposed framing" is an option just o enjoy the grain?

Yeah it is beautiful timber (I've actually used it for a TV cabinet and a bed). BTW, by exposed I meant "out in the weather" and not "on show".

What now? Is it that the timber is too dry? Is the gun underpowered?

Has anybody used an air gun on cypress framing with shear nails? What were the specs of the gun?

Look forward to some suggestions - I have to get the order in early next week so that I have some hope of having the timber to start the week after Easter.

What brand/model of gun are you using and what pressure is it set to?

Don't know the details of the gun. I will contact him tonight to find out and let you know.

Gordon

Originally Posted by Goddert

..............Has anybody used an air gun on cypress framing with shear nails? What were the specs of the gun?.............

Yes, without any problems. Used to be fairly common up here to order a house lot of cypress up by rail and I've built a few places with it. Most of it was fairly green but I have worked with some that had been around for a year or more for some repairs/alterations. No problem driving in either shear points or standard nails with the framing guns I've used. A variety of brands: Paslode, Senco and Bostitch. I have an old Italian framer (Fasco) which is all I could afford when I started out and it struggles to drive a nail flush in hardwood but no problems on the cypress. You should be running the compressor regulator at about 100psi.

Mick