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  1. #1
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    Default How do you go about dampening noise with common materials ?

    Say you've got a noisy motor. If you knock up a box around it, say in MDF, what could you line the insides of the box with to make a difference to outside noise levels.

    All I ever remember anyone using is egg cartons.

    Got any other ideas. (something cheap eh. Don't want to bother buying some hi-tech polycarbonate honeycone mesh stuff used on the space shuttle or whatever)

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    Try some coolite. Often, your local whitegoods retailer will throw out a stack of it that comes as packing.
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  4. #3
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    that white stuff that fits tight around your microwave ?

  5. #4
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    don't know if anyones interested. But I found this just now.
    http://www.soundproofing101.com/soundproofing_3.htm

    particularily the bit of building your wall. arranging studs and sheetrock for best effect.

    or double layered sheetrock. fibro or whatever.
    was thinking could line the walls of a DE enclosure outside your shed so you don't annoy anyone.

  6. #5
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    CSR Sound Screen, brilliant.
    Cheers
    Barry
    If it walks like a duck, talks like a duck and looks like a duck then it's a friggin duck.

  7. #6
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    Anything which is heat insulation will also work as sound insulation, so polyester bats, polystyrene panels, coolroom panels. In the old days they used straw, fleece, wool etc. Try ebay, trading post or www.freecycle.org

    Remember when you're knocking the mdf together, that you're trying to stop vibrations getting from the inside out, so fill any gaps etc, and ideally mount the whole thing on something rubber - car mats or door mats are good. You'll need to balance sealing it up to stop the noise with providing ventilation for fumes and to let heat out...
    Cheers, Richard

    "... work to a standard rather than a deadline ..." Ticky, forum member.

  8. #7
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    I have had very good results using the interlocking rubber sponge floor mats from Ray's Outdoor...they are sold for playgrounds and camping. I use these as a floor mat in front of my bench...great for fatigue and dropped tools. You can cut it to size and glue it into your MDF box. My router table is made this way for example, and you can hold a conversation in normal tones right next to it. Sealing, as mentioned, is important.

    Greg

  9. #8
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    Old carpet on the inside - keep an eye out for strips being thrown out when offices are being refurbished.

  10. #9
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    Dear Apricot,

    What about some spongy foam? That's basically what the Recording Studio Egg-Crate-lookalike stuff is made of. But get it in a flat sheet (much, much cheaper) from anywhere that sells materials (eg. Spotlight) or foam (eg. Clarks). The good wife might even have some lying around the house in a cupboard or drawer somewhere.

    Then - for good measure - instead of using contact adhesive, stick it to the inside of your enclosure with that black rubbery sound-deadening spray that you can get from Supercheap Auto. You've got to be pretty quick, though, because the stuff dries pretty quickly.

    Here a picture of what the finished result would look like, as employed on the inside of the lid of a computer that I built as a full-on exercise in noiselessness from top to bottom.

    Best Wishes,
    Batpig.

  11. #10
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    What ever you do, do not forget that the motor needs to have adequate cooling.

  12. #11
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    Jake,
    what David said about cooling. Do a search for the box that Major Panic knocked up for his compressor. He put some cooling fans in that he got from Soundman. If you can make an MDF box and line it then this will help an awful lot. If you can line it with more than one type of sound absorbing/suppressing material that's even better as different materials will cut different frequencies. (A double glazed window with one pane at 3mm and the other at 6mm will work better than both at 6mm) So Ideally an MDF and gyprock box with both styrofoam and sponge foam and a baffle arrangment plus a forced air cooling system would be really good.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  13. #12
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    I was just wondering...taking into account all the principals stated in previous posts.....how do you reckon sawdust would go?? Like as a sound dampener.
    I reckon Jake might have access to a lot of it.
    Only a thought.

  14. #13
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    thanks kindly for all the advice. I'm going to try and draw something up now. get my head around it.

    Does a Dust extractor motor require forced ventilation if its enclosed in a box do you think ? ......thinking because it sucks air around past the motor anyway.

    ie. should I still be worried about ventilation if I lined a DE enclosure with noise reduction matterials ?

  15. #14
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    You can also design the enclosure with baffles to reduce noise leakage through ventillation and exhaust outlets. When combined with a solid structure and absorbant materiel you can have ventillation and reduced noise.
    I never make mistakes, I thought I did once but I was mistaken

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  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pusser View Post
    You can also design the enclosure with baffles to reduce noise leakage through ventillation and exhaust outlets. When combined with a solid structure and absorbant materiel you can have ventillation and reduced noise.
    fear I'd be getting out of my depth with something like that.

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