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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    10

    Question De-cupping boards for a panel

    Hi learned woodies,
    I am building an Ausie oak frame to hold some plastic bins for toys. Two stacks high a simple affair which I was going to top with a 500x500mm top made from oakboards 140mm or so wide, butt jointed. I selected the grain to run vertically short accross the plank, as I believe that this is best to avoid cupping and allowed the wood to acclimatise.
    The boards have still managed to cup after cutting to length, and as this is my first attempt at a panel I would like some guidance. I don't have a thicknesser, any suggestions )?

    cheers
    brad

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Yinnar, Victoria, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    1,277

    Post

    one way to solve the problem would have been to cut you boards into smaller withs, then re-join them back togethe, making sure that the growth rings in every second board ran in the opposite direction, ( the technique has been explained hre somewhere previously )

    However if you have already glued the pieces up, I think that your only option is to introduce them to a sander, OR if you are close handy to a joinery shop, enquire IF they would be willing to run the pieces through THEIR thickmesser.

    Kev

    ------------------
    IF at first you don't succeed, relax your normal.
    I try and do new things twice.. the first time to see if I can do it.. the second time to see if I like it
    Kev

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,918

    Post

    Gooday.

    A thicknesser generally will not remove cupping in a panel.

    It exerts so much pressure on the feed rollers that it flattens the panel and when it comes out it goes back to its original shape, just thinner thats all.

    A sander such as a Performax which exerts no pressure will flatten a panel.

    Another option is to rip the panel back to boards and start again making sure that the edges are square and then laid out as one of the previous posters suggested.

    Personally we never join boards wider than 150mm wide.

    ------------------
    Ian () Robertson
    "We do good turns every day"

    [This message has been edited by (edited 22 April 2002).]

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Adelaide, South Australia
    Posts
    295

    Post

    G'day
    You can uncup the boards by wetting the concave side and covering, or lying on wet grass for a couple of hours. Needs experimenting to get it right. Sounds rough but it works. I never worry about the growth rings direction, just arrange the boards for the best look.
    Cheers
    Rod

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Grovedale (Geelong) Victoria
    Age
    74
    Posts
    12,183

    Post

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  7. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    10

    Talking

    Thanks all .....
    I have not yet joined the boards so I will cut and alternate the rings as suggested. )

    This is what I thinking of doing but I wanted the experienced opinion as I am only just a newbie.
    Ausie Oak is proving to be quite tricky to work with. Hard and dry it tends to splinter easily. (
    I am planning to finnish with a white shellac and perhaps a wax. I might even try the UB one as we get it here in Perth through Timbecon.

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