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  1. #1
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    Default Denailing floorboards - current project



    We pulled out about 40sqm of old Vic Ash/Tas Oak floorboards our of our renovation and I have the joy of denailing them. The timber is in ok-to-decent condition so I thought it would be a waste to burn it all.

    What are some of the more interesting things people have made out of these types of boards? Share your picks please



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  3. #2
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    Jul 2010
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    Default

    Hi Railer,
    i've found stuff like this to be very useful. have used it for making inside and bases of drawers that i've faced with other timber.
    Also I reckon it's pretty nice timber on its own.
    possibly a bit underrated.
    Cheers
    Frank

  4. #3
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    Jan 2014
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    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    I used boards from a front veranda. I cut the rotten ends off, put them through a thicky and got it down to 17mm (with a reasonably good but featured surface), roughly cleaned up the tongue and groove with a table saw and used the planks to build an outdoor table.
    Only missed one nail but it was work’s thicky

  5. #4
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    Nov 2003
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    Default

    I've done many project out of old floorboards. All cabinets in my new bathroom are made from Tas Oak floorboards. The 2 bedside table are Kauri.

    IMG_2281.JPG IMG_2276.JPG IMG_6261.JPG IMG_6263.JPG IMG_6264.JPG IMG_6265.JPG Nicks bedide cabs_4909.jpg
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wongo View Post
    I've done many project out of old floorboards. All cabinets in my new bathroom are made from Tas Oak floorboards. The 2 bedside table are Kauri.
    Nice! I take it you trimmed the boards between the nail holes for the cabinets?

    I’m finding a lot of boards are splitting on the reverse as I pound out the nails. Any tips on minimising the splitting?


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  7. #6
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    Oct 2018
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lappa View Post
    I used boards from a front veranda. I cut the rotten ends off, put them through a thicky and got it down to 17mm (with a reasonably good but featured surface), roughly cleaned up the tongue and groove with a table saw and used the planks to build an outdoor table.
    Only missed one nail but it was work’s thicky
    Most of these are straight boards with no T&G, which gives me a little flexibility.

    Need to invest in a metal detector [emoji854]


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  8. #7
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    Oct 2018
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattocks View Post
    Hi Railer,
    i've found stuff like this to be very useful. have used it for making inside and bases of drawers that i've faced with other timber.
    Also I reckon it's pretty nice timber on its own.
    possibly a bit underrated.
    Cheers
    Frank
    Agreed, it will come up very nicely. Might make some bedside tables for the spare rooms.


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  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by railer View Post
    Nice! I take it you trimmed the boards between the nail holes for the cabinets?

    I’m finding a lot of boards are splitting on the reverse as I pound out the nails. Any tips on minimising the splitting?


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    1. I removed the T&G and I also tried to avoid showing the nail holes as much as possible.

    2. Just be careful and take your time. Put a bit of glue to where it splits and it will be as good as new.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by railer View Post
    Need to invest in a metal detector
    It is easy to spot a nail so you don't need a metal detector for that. The biggest enemies are the staples. Especially the bits that left inside the wood.

    I clean up the surfaces with a wire brush, and inspect them very carefully before I put them through my machines.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Maybe a bit late but I would not drive the nails out but pull them completely through the boards ,a bit more effort but it saves splitting as the heads come out

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by nrb View Post
    Maybe a bit late but I would not drive the nails out but pull them completely through the boards ,a bit more effort but it saves splitting as the heads come out
    Unfortunately they all have wide heads, can’t really pull them through (I tried!).


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  13. #12
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    I am a bit confused here. But don't you hammer the head out from the underside then pull it?
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  14. #13
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    Oct 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wongo View Post
    I am a bit confused here. But don't you hammer the head out from the underside then pull it?
    That’s what I thought and it’s what I’m doing.


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  15. #14
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    That is one way to do it,the problem is that the nails are usually punched below the surface and the holes filled so the sander does not catch the heads
    When you drive the nails out from the back or underneath the heads catch as well as the filler and you can get quite a bit if splintering,pulling them through the way they were driven in will often leave the filler in so leaving the board looking like it did on the floor
    Using vice grips and pulling them out will take far less time than turning the board,hammering out,turning back over to remove

    Use this method for anything you remove if you want to refit it ,ie skirtings ,architraves,window trims, etc you often will not see where the nails where
    Last edited by nrb; 5th December 2018 at 06:28 PM. Reason: more comments

  16. #15
    Join Date
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    I didn’t bother trimming out the nail holes - I think they add character.

    861E29A4-6973-4C3C-9F52-5720890818A4.jpg

    i have also done what nrb suggested and pulled nails out from the back on some old timber, like cypress pine door jams, to avoid splintering.

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