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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Range View, Australia
    Posts
    656

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    He's too thirsty to be much good at dusting.
    Cheers, Bill

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    7,016

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    Dale
    The cleat morticed in to the sides will be strong enough just leave 100/200 mm siting above.
    And sit back admiring your handy work
    If unsure over engineer is my motto
    A little more on timber a little less anxiety.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    3,277

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    Dale
    The cleat morticed in to the sides will be strong enough just leave 100/200 mm siting above.
    And sit back admiring your handy work
    If unsure over engineer is my motto
    A little more on timber a little less anxiety.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

    Just to clarify ae you saying to make the cleat 100-200mm high or locate it 100-200mm down from the top?
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    7,016

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    Sorry Dale
    I would make the cleat say 120mm that's a standard off the shelf pine from Bunnings I think.
    And set them down from the top by say 200mm
    So infect u have 200mm of the cupboard side bearing( pushing down) on the cleat.
    Or the other option is contact me through my email and book me for the job
    Rate would be say 100 hand made saws (my design)plus a life time supply of saw stuff I need
    If that seems fair lol



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    3,277

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    Sorry Dale
    I would make the cleat say 120mm that's a standard off the shelf pine from Bunnings I think.
    And set them down from the top by say 200mm
    So infect u have 200mm of the cupboard side bearing( pushing down) on the cleat.
    Or the other option is contact me through my email and book me for the job
    Rate would be say 100 hand made saws (my design)plus a life time supply of saw stuff I need
    If that seems fair lol



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

    Matt thanks, That sounds like a really great offer…but um..err….No
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    7,016

    Default

    I can't do it for any less have u not heard about the economy ???
    If you get stuck would be happy to swing buy one night next week and give u some one on one pointers if you like.
    PM if you like


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Age
    62
    Posts
    2,236

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post


    So a nice rebate like this for fixing the back in place is the best way to go, huh?

    My main concern is the cleat and back sitting on the wall and the rest of the cabinet smashed on the floor. I want to be confident the back is firmly attached and won't flex or bow and pull out.
    I take it you mean the groove in the left hand side into which the boards are captive in, it's one way to go and as far as I can see would be OK, as long as there's room for each board to move width ways.

    From looking at BP's cab the cleat is hard up against the top so as long as it is fixed to stop it from coming out (screws) for the cleat to fail it would have to shear off the tails/pins in the top/side joint.



    Pete

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