Thread: Desk fell over, draws pulled out screws.. fix?

If I'm not mistaken, the "timber" in question is actually just veneered chipboard. Fatter screws would probably work, but I think it might be better if you could re-position the drawer stack 10mm sideways and reuse the same screws.

This might give you a couple of potential solutions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzKhgacRfjY

Another I could think of would be to mix up a slurry of sawdust/small chips and PVA glue, and set that in the hole. Redrill a pilot hole, and put in fresh screws.

A bit of a twist on Elan's suggestion, position the drawer cabinet in the same place, use screws the same size and style, but moved about 25 mm from original location so they are into fresh material in the cabinet and top, maybe two screws (one either side of original) in the cabinet corner braces. Pre drill clearance holes in the drawer cab first, position it relative to the top and drill small pilot holes through new cab holes into underneath of top (not through holes) and fasten screws, should be as strong as original.

Strap it firmly to the trolley if you need to move it, top against trolley frame.

Another alternative
https://elraco.com.au/product_info.p...88aqoko7bmmab4

The only thing that I could offer is to fill the holes with pieces of chopsticks glued in place. Then redrill and reuse the screws.

HOWEVER

With chip board (particle board) I don't hold much hope for anything. I think that the best suggestion was sawdust and glue mixed into a paste. TiteBond original probably will best adhere to the particle board.

Hey all,

Thanks heaps for the feedback and suggestions, much appreciated

I had a look at that video link, very handy, ty . I think at this stage, I might take a measurement of the desk, and space in my room, and maybe go that route, though I do like the idea of using glue+sawdust to fill the hole... I don't have any Titebond though, but would PVA glue be ok? Also, using a dowel to reinforce (not the top, but the drawers), seems like a neat idea too.

Thanks again, Ill keep you posted

Originally Posted by Widget1983

Hi guys,

Had a desk I was wheeling around on a trolley, it lost balance and fell over. When it hit the ground, the drawers on one side separated from the top of the desk, pulling the threaded screws out (breaking some timber too). Now, I'm thinking, as the screws were pulled out, the threads in the timber are likely damaged. How do I fix this? would it be best to get a fatter screw of the same length, then have it re-thread into the timber ?



IMAG1244[1].jpg

IMAG1242.jpg

IMAG1245.jpg

IMAG1246.jpg

Thanks in advance

nice tool kit, where's the shifter? hahaha, just kidding. from my experience, once this happens, the chipboard is toast. But as a few others have suggested fill with glue and sawdust, I would've said 5min epoxy, but obviously give more time to cure fully, and is totally drillable etc. good luck.

I agree with glue & sawdust for trying to 'rebuild' cosmetic areas of the chipboard, but not around any screws/fasteners.

Something like that I'd simply drill the chipboard so a dowel is a snug fit. Tight enough it needs a bit of light tapping to get it in, not so tight you need a sledgie to do the tapping. Glue the dowel in with PVA, cut it flush and redrill for the appropriate screw.

The only time I'd go for a "fatter" screw is if the head has pulled through. Screws don't work so well when they have nothing to actually screw against!

edit: PS. you really don't want to just force the screw into the end of the dowel; you do NOT want the dowel to split. So I recommend against using a batt drill to tighten it. A normal screwdriver does nicely; screw in until it starts to bind, unscrew a 1/4 turn. Tighten a half-turn, unscrew a 1/4 turn. Rinse, repeat. It's a slow job, but it makes the screw cut a thread into the dowel rather than trying to wedge it's way in. If you do a job properly, you only have to do it the once.

Hi Widget

I think SkewDamnIt has given you the best solution, but I would add a couple of refinements:

1. Use thicker dowell - at least one third but not more than half the thickness of the chipboard. For 19mm chipboard use 6 to 9 mm dowell,
2. Clamp the chipboard (aka wheetbix) before you drill up until the glue dries. You do not want the chipboard delaminating.
3. Drill the holes at least double the length of the dowell screws - you want to maximise purchase on the chipboard, spread the load.
4. Use heaps of glue inside the hole, none on the dowell as it will just rub off as you drive it into the hole.
5. Allow glue to cure at least 24 hours before carefull pre-drilling screw holes. Be wary of splitting the dowell.
6. Lubricate screws - butter's fine as it quicly goes rancid and ceases to be a lubricant.

Downside of dowelling is that you will be screwing into end grain which is inherently weak, so at best it's a temporary repair. But desk is chipboard, so it's a temporary desk!


Cheers

Graeme

If the broken one is indeed chipboard, and you don't want to reposition it on the base, then I would consider getting one of these table tops from Officeworks and screw it on.
1000mm $29
1200mm $39
1500mm $59
Available in 4 different colours. 25mm thick.
All laminated, edge banded and ready to go.

https://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/...sks/table-tops

Or you could get a laminated solid hardwood panel from Bunnings for about $100 if you wanted something nicer.

If you're concerned that wood dust and pva are not strong enough. Use epoxy instead. Together with wood dust it's plenty strong enough.

Won't epoxy just crack as soon as you put a screw in it?

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

Won't epoxy just crack as soon as you put a screw in it?

Actually when mixed with saw dust and pre-drilling the hole before screwing, the chance of cracking should be negligible.