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  1. #16
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    Personally, I wouldn't go
    to thin kerf blades unless you are using high value timbers or built up laminations that you want to maximize your return from. I use both the Diablo ultra fine cut and DeWalt Extreme blades on my tablesaw for cross cutting of laminated stock. I use sleds for most of my work and at times without the riving knife because of the sled design.
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    Thanks for the thoughts Moby. To be clear, are you saying the blade I bought is too thin at 2.5mm kerf with a 1.8mm body (same body width as the stock blade)? Or are you talking about the 1.55mm kerf blade I'm thinking of using on a circular saw for width-critical stock? For the latter, I'm thinking I could probably minimise problems by ripping boards halfway through and flipping them over for a second pass.

    Also, I will be using hard to get timbers like Gidgee and Burdekin Plum, and with any stock I'm using there will be widths where a couple of mm may make the difference with how many whistles I can get out of a board.

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    The 2.5mm kerf is about as thin as you would want to use for cross cuts on hard timbers like Gidgee & Burdekin Plum. For ripping I believe you would be better served with a blade such as the Diablo combination blade (2.5mm kerf) Diablo Tools | Saw Blades | COMBINATION

    Thinner kerf blades will require stiffening which also reduces the depth of cut available.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mobyturns View Post
    The 2.5mm kerf is about as thin as you would want to use for cross cuts on hard timbers like Gidgee & Burdekin Plum. For ripping I believe you would be better served with a blade such as the Diablo combination blade (2.5mm kerf) Diablo Tools | Saw Blades | COMBINATION
    That's the blade I bought for the table saw. When I want to get every mm out of a board, how about the idea of using the 1.55mm kerf blade on the handheld saw at no more than about 25mm thickness rip cuts (flipping over for 2nd pass on thicker stock)?

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt NQ View Post
    That's the blade I bought for the table saw. When I want to get every mm out of a board, how about the idea of using the 1.55mm kerf blade on the handheld saw at no more than about 25mm thickness rip cuts (flipping over for 2nd pass on thicker stock)?
    Not sure why you would prefer a hand held power saw for ripping when you have a table saw? With ultra thin kerf blades you still run the risk of the blade flexing while ripping, making two cuts by flipping only increases the chances of problems with cut alignment. 1.8mm kerf x two cuts with a hand held power saw vs a 2.5mm kerf in one pass on a table saw? A no brainer in my book, TS wins every time, unless the stock is unmanageable on the TS.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt NQ View Post
    When I want to get every mm out of a board, how about the idea of using the 1.55mm kerf blade on the handheld saw at no more than about 25mm thickness rip cuts (flipping over for 2nd pass on thicker stock)?
    If your objective is to rip (and cross-cut) with the absolute minimum kerf, and your boards are a maximum of 50 mm thick, you really should be looking at using a handsaw.

    The Veritas Rip Carcass saw (12 tpi) has a kerf that is less than 1 mm.

    Veritas Rip carcass saw in North American Oak
    reference: https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/...s-carcass-saws


    Similarly, the Veritas cross cut carcass saw (14 tpi) also has a kerf that is less than 1 mm.
    (Just practice a bit with less rare / expensive hardwood)
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt NQ View Post
    The final issue I have with the table saw is that the blade and riving knife don't exactly line up. That's not because I've changed the blade, as it's the same body width as the stock blade - 1.8mm. It's about 0.2mm out. I'm going to try shimming the blade between the axle plate and the inner flange. Found some 0.1mm shims the right size on ebay which will take about a week to get here... patience.
    Matt,
    I take it that your Ozito table saw, with the supplied blade, was also out of alignment by 0.2 mm. Do all of Bunning's Ozito's have this fault or only yours?

    Generally, the alignment of the riving knife should be fettled to fit the alignment of the saw blade, not the other way round.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  9. #23
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    Thanks for that Ian. Some of the pieces will be 420mm long - I think I'd get more error than the difference in kerf with a handsaw unless I was an absolute master. The riving knife cannot be moved inward at all, which is where it would need to go - it's hard up against a large part of the undercarriage. Have no idea if all Ozito table saws have this error, but I do know it's easier for me to shim the blade (as long as there's no resultant wobble) than to take it back and go through the whole assembly again.

    I'm also reflecting on all the helpful comments here, and thinking that maybe I've approached this with a bit too much perfectionism. There are actually different sizes of Celtic whistles. While I've got my sights set on making mostly ones of a certain size, if I end up with a slightly thinner piece of wood I can make a smaller whistle with that piece. It feels perhaps like a more relaxing way to go than going to extraordinary lengths to save a few tenths of mm.

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