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13th April 2018, 10:55 PM #16
Personally, I wouldn't go
to thin kerf blades unless you are using high value timbers or built up laminations that you want to maximize your return from. I use both the Diablo ultra fine cut and DeWalt Extreme blades on my tablesaw for cross cutting of laminated stock. I use sleds for most of my work and at times without the riving knife because of the sled design.Mobyturns
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14th April 2018, 12:30 PM #17Intermediate Member
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Thanks for the thoughts Moby. To be clear, are you saying the blade I bought is too thin at 2.5mm kerf with a 1.8mm body (same body width as the stock blade)? Or are you talking about the 1.55mm kerf blade I'm thinking of using on a circular saw for width-critical stock? For the latter, I'm thinking I could probably minimise problems by ripping boards halfway through and flipping them over for a second pass.
Also, I will be using hard to get timbers like Gidgee and Burdekin Plum, and with any stock I'm using there will be widths where a couple of mm may make the difference with how many whistles I can get out of a board.
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15th April 2018, 12:21 AM #18
The 2.5mm kerf is about as thin as you would want to use for cross cuts on hard timbers like Gidgee & Burdekin Plum. For ripping I believe you would be better served with a blade such as the Diablo combination blade (2.5mm kerf) Diablo Tools | Saw Blades | COMBINATION
Thinner kerf blades will require stiffening which also reduces the depth of cut available.Mobyturns
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15th April 2018, 12:13 PM #19Intermediate Member
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15th April 2018, 11:56 PM #20
Not sure why you would prefer a hand held power saw for ripping when you have a table saw? With ultra thin kerf blades you still run the risk of the blade flexing while ripping, making two cuts by flipping only increases the chances of problems with cut alignment. 1.8mm kerf x two cuts with a hand held power saw vs a 2.5mm kerf in one pass on a table saw? A no brainer in my book, TS wins every time, unless the stock is unmanageable on the TS.
Mobyturns
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16th April 2018, 04:52 AM #21
If your objective is to rip (and cross-cut) with the absolute minimum kerf, and your boards are a maximum of 50 mm thick, you really should be looking at using a handsaw.
The Veritas Rip Carcass saw (12 tpi) has a kerf that is less than 1 mm.
Veritas Rip carcass saw in North American Oak
reference: https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/...s-carcass-saws
Similarly, the Veritas cross cut carcass saw (14 tpi) also has a kerf that is less than 1 mm.
(Just practice a bit with less rare / expensive hardwood)regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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16th April 2018, 04:57 AM #22
Matt,
I take it that your Ozito table saw, with the supplied blade, was also out of alignment by 0.2 mm. Do all of Bunning's Ozito's have this fault or only yours?
Generally, the alignment of the riving knife should be fettled to fit the alignment of the saw blade, not the other way round.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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16th April 2018, 03:13 PM #23Intermediate Member
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Thanks for that Ian. Some of the pieces will be 420mm long - I think I'd get more error than the difference in kerf with a handsaw unless I was an absolute master. The riving knife cannot be moved inward at all, which is where it would need to go - it's hard up against a large part of the undercarriage. Have no idea if all Ozito table saws have this error, but I do know it's easier for me to shim the blade (as long as there's no resultant wobble) than to take it back and go through the whole assembly again.
I'm also reflecting on all the helpful comments here, and thinking that maybe I've approached this with a bit too much perfectionism. There are actually different sizes of Celtic whistles. While I've got my sights set on making mostly ones of a certain size, if I end up with a slightly thinner piece of wood I can make a smaller whistle with that piece. It feels perhaps like a more relaxing way to go than going to extraordinary lengths to save a few tenths of mm.
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