Thread: Dining table construction.

Hi Andrew,
I use small rebated hardwood block's(30mmx22mmx14mm) to attach the top's of tables to the frame. I run a 6mm x 6mm groove along the rail 10mm below the top edge of the rail and use these small block's to hold the top in place. Hope this is of some help.table joiner's.png

I make these block's in a short length then cut into individual piece's. Sorry about the quality of the diagram just learning to drive this thing.
Regards Rod.

I agree with the above and might also add that there are also items called figure 8's that allow you to do the same thing allowing for movement.

Thanks Rod. Your diagram is fine and I will try these given they would be easy to knock up with the router. Another thread also suggested using some sort of figure of eight which I might try and get some more info on.

Further regarding this table I was wondering wether you had any ideas regarding the first part of my thread about attaching the table legs to the rails (or frame) in a way that they can be dismantled. At this stage I am thinking of using mortice & tenon joints and then some sort of knock down fitting. Any ideas are welcome.

Originally Posted by Rod Gilbert

Hi Andrew,
I use small rebated hardwood block's(30mmx22mmx14mm) to attach the top's of tables to the frame. I run a 6mm x 6mm groove along the rail 10mm below the top edge of the rail and use these small block's to hold the top in place. Hope this is of some help.table joiner's.png

I make these block's in a short length then cut into individual piece's. Sorry about the quality of the diagram just learning to drive this thing.
Regards Rod.

Sorry Andrew I haven't forgotten you just been thinking on how best to do this. My tables are joined at the rail to leg by simply routing a 35mm deep x16mm wide slot 10mm short of the width of the rail and rebating the inside of the rail usually 19mm thick to 16mm to suit the slot then simply glued together then locked into place by drilling then driving 2x 12mm dowel's through each face of the leg through the rail and into the leg behind to make a permanent join with a corner block behind the rails to brace it. Sorry again about diagram just trying to make my explanation understandable.
There are a few types of knock down fitting's available I will see if I can get some more info on which is the best for your application
Regards Rod.
(Figure of 8's are just like 2 washers joined together)
table leg joint's.png

you can use sleves.. (can see them on Hafele web page Häfele Hardware Technology: Furniture fittings, architectural hardware and the electronic locking system Dialock -) item number 030.00.502
Pretty much drill the hole put them in (they screw in) and then screw the leg in
Similar to ikea furniture but much sturdier and firmer...
Can pretty much make table flat pack..

I've seen some Zipbolt stuff. Never used it but when I build a table I considered it. Might be worth a look.

Cheers,

Tom

as crazy as it may seem, if you

1) need to carry the completed table 1700km to Brisbane, on a roof rack, and
2) make it east to disassemble, building the table frame like a bed is the way to go

Use conventional M&Ts to join the legs to the shorter aprons
Use bed bolt or similar to attach the long aprons to the end frames when you get to Brisbane
(in his Beds book, Jeff Miller has a method that hides the connecting bolts from view)


BTW
The easiest way to make table buttons is to use your table saw
rip a rebate on the long edge of a piece of wood, then dock the buttons to length