Thread: Double beveled oak antique picture frames

Originally Posted by Lars01

Hi There,

Has anyone got experience with the mitre angle calculations/formula of Double beveled oak antique picture frames?
I would like to replicate and/or reduce existing ones in size and need a consistent result.
Any tips or advice appreciated.

Cheers,
Lars

Double beveled oak antique picture frames?

You will get an answer if we knew what you were talking about .
Do you have a picture or a much better description ?
I'm thinking you might mean the wood has two bevels and the frame is a rectangle or square. Is it as simple as that ?
Or is the frame more of an Octagonal shape and that's whats called the bevels? Which doesn't make sense because there are more than two .

Rob

If it is the type of frame I am thinking of you will need to put a packer at the rear of the frame when cutting so as to keep the angle correct when joining the corners.

Ah, you mean compound mitre. Try these Compound Angle Calculator ::: Mitered and Butted Joints Compound Miter Saw Calculator Compound Miter Calculator

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

Ah, you mean compound mitre. Try these Compound Angle Calculator ::: Mitered and Butted Joints Compound Miter Saw Calculator Compound Miter Calculator

To add some more detail:

Four sided frame with 90 degree, ie 2x 45 degree mitres; these 45 degree mitres have another bevel added in. This causes the four frame pieces to rise up when joined rather then lying flat.
I am not too well versed on all woodworking terminology, so this could well be called a compound mitre. The cut easy to make on a compound saw, however not too easy to get it spot on every time. It often requites a few trial pieces. This is fine if I am making a new frame but not so good when I'm trying to reduce an existing antique frame with little or now room for error.

How I would be doing it is forget about having to convert it to numbers of degrees and angles before you build and get a mould and prop it up to what you think looks right and measure the angle then.

Another thing I always like to remember is, not so long ago cornice and picture frame mouldings were never just cut with a saw and stuck together. The sawing wasn't that accurate back then they had to be planed on a shooting board . Donkey ear shooting board https://www.google.com.au/search?cli....0.rXRgTUHa2dI

You will see a type that probably will do what you want or give you the right direction to proceed . Shooting boards offer very accurate fitting and adjustment to compensate while fitting if things need that. You could build one that does left and right 90 degree angles and with a raised slope of the required angle. Or build the same thing to suit the drop saw if its to be done straight off the saw cut .

Rob

Thanks Guys,

All up I think I have the answers. Just got to wait now for the next project to trial this on. In the meantime I will look into making a shooting board.