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Thread: Dovetail boxes
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21st June 2005, 04:50 PM #31It's like learning to play the piano, and never performing."I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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21st June 2005 04:50 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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21st June 2005, 05:00 PM #32
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21st June 2005, 05:26 PM #33
What's a dovetail?
Oh yes, a hairstyle back in the late 50s. No, that was a ducktail. Are they the same?
I usually get Wood Borer to cut all mine for me.
Actually I was making a box yesterday and cocked it up. Dovetails are so easy to fix if you do it right. What happened was that I (hand) cut everything and it was going to be a good fit (I never fit it together until the glue stage), then began to cut the grooves for the bottom with a plough plane. Great, except I cut one side upside down, didn't I!! :mad: After I retrieved it from the bin where I hurled it, I decided I'd cut the sides down the middle with the bandsaw - leaving thin sides (thick enough still for the box) with good dovetails. But, as it turned out, this caused the angles to change, and there were big gaps all around. These were filled with veneers cut from waste and oriented correctly (end grain and face grain), and glued in. Once dry, I planed away the waste and it was impossible to see that there was a repair. If anyone is bored enough (or still awake), I will post pictures at some stage.
The moral of the story is that poorly cut dovetails can be made to look first class with a little creativity. Don't let yourself be put off trying to cut them by hand.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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21st June 2005, 05:38 PM #34Originally Posted by derekcohen
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21st June 2005, 05:47 PM #35Originally Posted by derekcohen
Yeah, I'm awake...just resting my eyes.
Yeah, let's see the pics...Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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21st June 2005, 05:49 PM #36Originally Posted by silentCThose are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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21st June 2005, 05:53 PM #37
Dovetails
My best dovetails todate were made cutting the pins on a bandsaw with a jig so angles are consistent. Shoulder lines also greatly improved using Derek Cohens published jig.
I have for years (over 55 years) yearned to cut and make a project with mitre corner dovetails. Intend starting this project soon.
Can anyone suggest which book of plans for making boxes they think is the best from the selection available these days?Last edited by jow104; 21st June 2005 at 07:08 PM.
woody U.K.
"Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln
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21st June 2005, 10:48 PM #38
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21st June 2005, 11:18 PM #39Son Of Odin
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Excuse my ignorance, but what does the abbreviation DAMHIK mean?
J!
My opinion is neither copyrighted nor trademarked, and its price is competitive. If you like, I'll trade for one of yours.
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21st June 2005, 11:22 PM #40
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22nd June 2005, 01:50 AM #41Originally Posted by jow104
I don't think either of these books have explanations of secret dovetail mitres. For that, the explanation in Tage Frid's book ("Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking", Vol 1, Book 1, p. 75) is excellent. He calls them full-blind dovetails. I quote:
Most people think it is difficult to make a full-blind dovetail. It looks complicated, but it is not. If you can make the through and half-blind versions, you should have no trouble making the full-blind dovetail. The only difference is that when you lay it out, you have to set the marking gauge to the exact thickness of the wood so that the ends will meet in a clean miter. In laying out through dovetails, we set the marking gauge slightly bigger than the thickness of the wood to make sure the ends of the joint protrude so they could be sanded off. Here, the depth must be set exactly right. Otherwise, the joint will not be tight on the inside or outside.There follows a 23-step process to produce the joint.Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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22nd June 2005, 09:15 AM #42In laying out through dovetails, we set the marking gauge slightly bigger than the thickness of the wood to make sure the ends of the joint protrude so they could be sanded off.
Yep, for creativity purposes keep a bucket of Timbermate handy."I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
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22nd June 2005, 09:19 AM #43Originally Posted by derekcohen- Wood Borer
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22nd June 2005, 10:50 AM #44Originally Posted by silentC
*Before Lie-NielsenThose are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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22nd June 2005, 10:53 AM #45Originally Posted by silentC
Last edited by zenwood; 22nd June 2005 at 11:03 AM. Reason: Brief puase to work out how to put thumbs up in main post...
Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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