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Thread: Drawer slips
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29th March 2014, 12:28 AM #1
Drawer slips
Hi all, there is some dawer construction to happen soon and I'm having a bit of a " I wonder" moment amybe it's old age, my typing atm definately says that!!
A question regarding drwer slips, usually they are fixed onto the inside of the drwer side such that the dwer side and the slip provide the sliding surface, does anybody fix them onto the bottom edge of the dwer side so that only the slip provides the sliding surface, the only possible down side I can see is that the slip is visible when the draw is pulled out, Is this really that bad anyway?
I wonder what opinions there are regarding drwer side mat'l, this would be my main requirements; stable, medium density, readily machinable (hand and power), pleasing to the eye, further considerations might be hard wearing, I would also consider the drawer runner ideally needs to be of similliar hard wearing wood.
Thanks for your thoughts
Pete
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30th March 2014, 12:20 PM #2
If you don't need or want the added slip to the inside of the drawer sides, then the groove for the drawer bottom to slide in is just cut into the drawer sides, not added to the bottom by gluing it on.
This does create a weakness in the side where the groove is, if your doing a 9.5 mm thick side, so making the sides a little thicker is a good idea.
I did see once some shaker drawer sides that were tapered , they were fine and thin up the top and thick down the bottom where the extra material was needed . Adding a slip is also good because it spreads the drawer weight over a wider surface , the drawer side + the width of the slip.
Rob
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30th March 2014, 01:24 PM #3
Hi Peter
One of the prime reasons for using slips is to build slimmer side panels, which preclude the use of grooves. The slip provides the groove. Slimmer drawer sides have a more elegant look, although this does depend on the relative size of the drawer(s) in question. I use slips about 90% of the time.
This type of construction is more common in the UK than the USA, where the latter tend to build thicker drawer sides (often as much as 3/4"). It can come down to the type of piece you are designing. I just think that a 3/8" - 1/2" side is more elegant. Grooving this thickness will reduce its structural integrity.
Another reason is to offer a harder wearing bearing surface than the edge of the sides, which are typically softwood.
Done correctly, the slips are invisible from the outside (to answer one of your questions).
There is a detailed article on my website with information/discussion and illustrations from guys who are far, far more knowledgeable than I: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...erBottoms.html
And another with pictures on using slips in a dovetailed drawer: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...leddrawer.html
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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30th March 2014, 11:22 PM #4
Thanks Rob and Derek, interesting the tapered sides on the Shaker drawer design, I'd assume the taper was on the inside and not on the outside?
I did have a read of Derek's drawer construction, both inthewoodshop and here on the forum and a few other sources, it seems that they are glued to the inside of the side in all cases, the reason for doing so will most likely reveal itself when I start my drawer construction. I am planning to make the sides around the 10mm (or less) thick so the slips will solve a few issues there.
For the slips and runners I am thinking of using some Crows Ash I have on hand, that should last a couple of lifetimes, only issue is gluing the slips to the drawer sides, CA can be a bit recalcitrant, currently have a few glue type tests on the go, if they dissapoint I'll most likely still use it for the runners. time will tell.
Cheers all.
Pete
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