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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Townsville, Nth Qld
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    4,236

    Default Best way to drill dog holes in benchtop?

    I have a 19mm thick laminated plywood workbench, and wish to put a 19mm hole in it for a 19mm dowel which will be connected to a square timber head for a dog or stop.

    I would like to get some ideas and suggestions on what is the best way to drill a 19mm hole in this material, about 400mm away from the front of the bench, such that it is dead vertical and leaves a neat hole through the laminate?
    regards,

    Dengy

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
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    298

    Default

    I just used a brace and bit, and two heads from some combination squares set vertically at right angles for me to check against. I just kept my head directly over the brace while drilling and had no problems.

    Other options are to make a guide block on the drill press then use it to guide the brace (or a powerdrill), or to use a router with a 19mm spiral-up bit.

    As far as the laminated part goes, do you have an auger bit with spurs? Slowly using that to define the edge of the hole in the laminate before drilling properly may help eliminate checking. I guess the usual options of putting masking tape over the area to be drilled or clamping a piece of sacrificial ply over the area could also help.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    52
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    856

    Default

    I used a cheapo drill stand from the local hardware store and my electric drill, screwed it to a larger chipboard base to aid in clamping and drilled my holes with a spade bit.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    749

    Default

    If you have a router, this will give you the ability to bore accurate & clean holes. A 19mm up cut spiral bit would work best.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    324

    Default

    I just drilled 15 holes in my bench and tried a few methods. The auger bit grabbed pretty hard as it pulled through, only had a standard 2 flute router bit which didn't have cutters that extended all the way to the center so didn't work. Best method I found was a sharp spade bit. Put it in the drill press and drilled through 60mm of mdf as a vertical guide. Clamped the mdf to the bench and used a cordless drill. Worked well

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    47
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    1,484

    Default

    Use a fortsner bit. Leaves perfect holes, without splintering. I use colt fortsner bits, and they are great.

    Before you commit to dowel, look at bench pups from veritas. Not too expensive and they are great in a 3/4 hole. Grips well in my bench which is a double layer of plywood. Most of the accessories are for 3/4 holes, so I'd be inclined towards using that size drill bit.

    Trav
    Some days we are the flies; some days we are the windscreen

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,882

    Default

    19 mm is a bit thin for dogs to work well but you could glue and screw another bit of ply or timber under where the holes are going to beef things up. A forstner bit would be good but a new spade bit can cut a clean hole with some care taken. Whatever you use screw or clamp some waste wood under the top to prevent splintering on the exit side. The router option will work but those spiral bits are costly.
    Some method of keeping the holes vertical too. There have been some already mentioned so whatever one you have the tools for.
    Regards
    John

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Glenorie
    Posts
    3

    Default Cheap Bench Dogs

    I don't know if this idea has been posted before however here goes
    I got sick and tired at the outrageous prices of 3/4" bench dogs so decided to make my own
    I wanted a material that would not destroy any tool edge which accidentally came in contact with the dog and something low enough to clamp 18mm material
    After casting about for suitable materials and rejecting timber dowel I came up with the following solution
    1. Take a length of 3/4" copper water pipe (sold as 20mm but actually 3/4") - $50 for 6 metres but you can buy shorter lengths - get the thickest walled stuff available
    2. Cut into suitable lengths (I decided on 50mm for this first lot)
    3. Solder on 3/4" copper end cap
    4. Cover up all your shoddy solder by covering the end cap with shrinky tube (protects the timber edges as well
    5. If you need taller dogs then use a copper joiner instead.
    All up cost less than $2-50 each and work very well. If you destroy one or two who cares.
    Hope that helps anyone out there

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dalejw View Post
    . . . . . .Best method I found was a sharp spade bit. Put it in the drill press and drilled through 60mm of mdf as a vertical guide. Clamped the mdf to the bench and used a cordless drill. Worked well
    This is what I do as well except I used a piece of Jarrah.

    It probably won't matter much thru only 19 mm ply but my experience is that Forstner and spade bits can wander around in deep holes especially on end grain. The only way to get really straight holes with these bits is to use them in something like a drill press.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RossM View Post
    If you have a router, this will give you the ability to bore accurate & clean holes. A 19mm up cut spiral bit would work best.
    Here is a simple jig to help with the router https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKMYD8jYWWQ
    CHRIS

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