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  1. #1
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    Default How do I drill these holes?

    I need to drill some 3/16" holes in the lid of this box to attach the lid stay. The hole centres are only 12mm from the top panel of the box. Using my cordless drill would result in seriously skewed holes. Is there a cabinetmaker's trick to doing this?
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  3. #2
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    A bradawl.
    https://www.google.com.au/search?q=b...IjpnpqczGam7M:

    You can make your own out of a small shank screw driver or if you have one of those small precision screw driver sets in a plastic box use the appropriate size one to create a pilot hole by turning backwards and forwards
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  4. #3
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    Default

    One of these and a hex-shank drill bit https://www.bunnings.com.au/p-n-heav...hment_p6320592

    This is why I love the Festool drill, got angle and offset heads for things like this.

  5. #4
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    Default

    Even cheaper - what about one of these?
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flexible-Sh...YAAOSwzgBY25mR
    You will have to buy a hex shank 3/16" bit

    I also have an old small chuck on the end of a (too long) flexible shaft that I use from time to time.
    If too much back torque is applied to my too long flex shaft its wants to wrap around itself.
    Shorter shafts don't suffer so much from this problem.

  6. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Is there a cabinetmaker's trick to doing this?
    Ive got a mig welder and oxy set 8 feet from from my wood work bench . Id probably weld the drill bit onto some rod as long as is needed and drill it from outside the perimeter of the top if possible.
    Its amazing how many trips to the hardware store the welder saves doing this . Ive needed extended bits quite a few times.

    Rob

  7. #6
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    Default

    Thanks for the replies.

    Elan- I have a right angle drill adaptor, but it's much chunkier than the P&N one. I reckon that would do the job, but it's a bit expensive for now. I might put that on my Christmas list.

    Bob- I was thinking of a flexible shaft last night. I should have one anyway, so I'll get one. You've also reminded me that I have a set of hex shank drill bits somewhere. I also have a long hex extension bit. The extension, hex bit and a handle would give me a 3/16" bradawl. It's very soft cedar, so a power drill isn't a requirement.

    Rob- I also have oxy-acet. And a metal lathe. I could drill a 3/16 hole into the end of a piece of rod and silver-solder the drill bit in. That's a zero cost option and there's no waiting involved. The box is 900 wide, so the holes should end up very close to 90 degrees. Another option.

  8. #7
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    Job done. Thanks to all.
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  9. #8
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    I am assuming you are not using "big" screws so if If the flexible shaft, fitted to a Dremmel perhaps, idea won't work, how about a pin-vice to hold the drill, or a Awl / bradawl with one side of the handle flattened to allow it to fit into the reduced access.
    I'm sure my grand father had these tools which had been modified this way for just this scenario

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post

    Rob- I also have oxy-acet.
    Drill the holes the way the old timers did before drills were invented. Get a steel rod the right diameter, shape it to fit in the required spot, heat it to red heat and just burn the holes.

    Suggest you practice on a piece of scrap first.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwbuild View Post
    A bradawl. You can make your own out of a small shank screw driver........
    Good advice, Ray. I prefer to use Allen Keys or even very small triangular files for the shank; The ridges make it bore better than a round shaft, in my experience.

    Quote Originally Posted by rwbuild View Post
    .....or if you have one of those small precision screw driver sets in a plastic box use the appropriate size one to create a pilot hole by turning backwards and forwards
    aka, jeweller's screwdrivers, and they do work well.


    Cheers

    Graeme

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