Thread: Really Dumb Q's cutting a straight line

The question worries me because there aren't many ways you can make a crooked cut with a table saw with a fence. One way to do it is not using a fence, but trying to cut freehand. Please explain your technique a bit more because that possibility scares the heck out of me. It also seems you are cutting a sheet of ply which could be too big for the saw.

How big is your table saw? Pictures or a make and model would be good.
What technique are you using to cut?

Hi, am having to do free hand, board is too wide for a fence. Why I am asking what is the best way to cut wide sections of timber. Would a circular saw be better?
Thanks
Waz

Freehand cutting on a T/s pretty well guarantees that there will be tears before bedtime - a crooked cut is the least of your worries!
A hand held circular saw would probably be better for this job, provided it's used safely and properly.
1. You need to support both ends of the job so that they don't move horizontally or vertically when you're cutting.
2. Clamp a guide to the board so that the saw runs straight.
3. Set the depth of the blade so that the gully just clears the underside of the material you're cutting.
4. Make sure you can do the full cut without having to stop the saw or change position
5. Make sure the power cable is well clear of you and the saw, and that it won't stop the saw movement in the course of the cut.
6. Rehearse what you plan to do.
7. Don't do it if you don't feel comfortable.
8. Don't stand directly behind the saw.

There are two alternatives: pay someone with a big panel saw to do it. That's the right equipment. Or use a hand saw.

You might want to consider a plunge saw that runs on aluminium guides?

I came across the following thread about tables saws that may answer a few questions for you and how sliding table attachments may help you cut big panels straighter . . . https://www.woodworkforums.com/f153/t...ht-one-114289/

However, in that thread was a link to a Trade Tools plunge saw.
TradeTools Direct - Serious Tools...Seriously Discounted!

Makita make a version of a plunge saw too and I know that with Festool's plunge saw, you can join two guides together end to end to allow you to cut the long sheets. I guess other Manufacturers would be clever enough to allow you to join two guides together too??

Cheers

Thanks ppl for replies, will get a Cross cut saw, can't afford anything else (pension), have been around chainsaws for yrs, ex tree feller, just not used to small stuff, very aware of safety, learnt the hard way by sliding thumb into Rip Saw a few yrs ago, why I ask Q's
Once again, many thanks
Waz

Yes, a circular saw is best, with a guide. Now if you clamp a straight edge to the work to guide the saw, you will need to measure the offset from the cut line for the guide for each cut, which can slow you down. As an alternative, screw the guide to a length of ply and then run the saw along the guide (in the direction that gives the widest cut.) You have just made a ripping jig for that saw. Now whenever you have a cut to make, just clamp the jig on the work-side (not the waste side) with the plywood edge on the cut line and cut.
Takes longer to explain than do...
cheers
Michael

Thanks Mic-d, am going to follow what you have advised for cutting (bookmarked), all helps, as has others advice.
Thanlks
Waz

Good to hear it's coming together Waz. But just to be clear, and because you asked for advice, never, ever, use a table saw without a fence (except with a sled, but that's for later). When Alex says tears before bedtime it's not because of frustration that you couldn't get a straight cut It's because of the blood, and possibly the missing bits of your hands or worse.

There are quite likely some good woodworking clubs in Mandurah. You'll meet some great people if other clubs are any indication, and you'll learn heaps.

Free Circular Saw Cutting Guide Plan - Free Panel Saw Plans

A quick set of instructions (with drawings) for mic-d's suggestion seeing as he beat me to it


A couple of extra tips for the jig though:
- Make sure the guide rail is low enough to pass freely under the motor etc. Seems obvious, but I keep making the same mistake when clamping just a guide to a workpiece
- The "waste" ply on the left side of the guide is there for giving yourself something to clamp onto (something not pictured in the link above) but similarly, make sure there is enough width that the saw motor doesn't bump into the clamps you're using. Again...

I really should take my own advice and make myself one of these. It would save a lot of bruising to my forehead

Hey Waz,

Where abouts in Mandurah?? I could bring a saw and a guide and have it done in no time. If you don't need a saw why buy one?. Another way is would be to work the size of your project around the size of the sheet that you can buy, most of the shops in Mandurah (Park Road, A 1, All Pine, even Big B) have a range of sizes,

Send me a PM if you need a Hand.

HazzaB

Many thanks HB, am in Halls Head, I will PM if I get stuck, thanks.
Great to see how many are prepared to help, Alex, RSG, Rookie, Ric, appreciate all the advice and suggestions, after nearly lopping off my thumb tip, have to be careful, was looking for a Course locally on Woodwork, for now will go back to Bunnies or the Park Rd shop and get smaller easier pieces.
Cheers everyone
Waz

If you are uncomfortable with doing it yourself, take up one of the offers on here for someone who knows what they are doing to do it for you. Your thread is a bit worrying.. Don't take chances.