Easy Drawer Boxes on a Table Saw

rrich · 23rd May 2015, 06:00 AM

Here is a post elsewhere. I've tried to put the .PDF and .DOCX file here but there is more to "Manage Attachments" than I understand.

I do apologize for the link to another woodworking forum because it is not my style to try to poach members.

http://www.worldofwoodforum.com/vb/s...Drawer-Box-Jig

Before you dive into the above link, there are a few things to consider.
1 ~ I am not of the metric persuasion and all measurements are Imperial.
2 ~ Most of the plywood sold in the US is in the "Might be, maybe, about this thick".
The thickness measurement may be listed as Imperial or Metric.
The actual thickness of plywood varies from sheet to sheet. From a brand new (Steel banded) lift or pallet of plywood I have observed different thicknesses from three consecutive sheets. (23/32, 3/4, 49/64)
3 ~ The drawer box procedure may need to be adjusted depending upon the desired appearance of the front of the drawer box itself. When I developed the jig and procedure I was building overlay drawers with an overlay front for a face frame cabinet, thus the joint is visible on the front of the drawer box. For shop drawers, just reverse the sides and front or back in the procedure. Then cut the front and back to the exact dimension needed for the width of the opening. Remember to consider the drawer slides in your measurement.
4 ~ A dado blade for the table saw is a requirement. The procedure prefers a 1/4 inch wide cut. This may present a problem for EU users but I'm not certain if the Australian Government has applied the 'No Dado' regulation to your table saws.

**pjt** · 25th May 2015, 12:56 AM

Hi Rich,
I wonder if you might expand on the "no dado" rule, I'm guessing that saws aren't allowed to be sold with facility to set up a dado blade?

Pete

rrich · 29th May 2015, 06:02 AM

Originally Posted by pjt

Hi Rich,
I wonder if you might expand on the "no dado" rule, I'm guessing that saws aren't allowed to be sold with facility to set up a dado blade?

Pete

Pete,
As I've been told, (No actual experience) the table saw arbors in Europe are too short to be able to hold a blade much larger than 1/8 inch thick. Just about every dado blade will require an arbor that will hold a blade that is up to 13/16 inch thick. The few wobbler type blades that I have measured are all in the 3/4" range of thickness regardless of dado cut width.

The "Box Joint" blade from Freud may work on European table saws. I'm not sure but it may be worthy of an investigation. It is two blades that when assembled A-B give a 1/4" cut and when assembled B-A give a 3/8" cut. This is accomplished by a weird "set" of the teeth.

Some of our European members may be able to clarify.

**aldav** · 29th May 2015, 11:54 AM

Originally Posted by rrich

4 ~ A dado blade for the table saw is a requirement. The procedure prefers a 1/4 inch wide cut. This may present a problem for EU users but I'm not certain if the Australian Government has applied the 'No Dado' regulation to your table saws.

As I understand it it is not that there is a 'No Dado' regulation it is simply that all dado sets seem to be made to fit a 5/8" (16mm) arbour. A lot of European saws, and many from China and Taiwan, have 30mm arbours and dado sets simply can't be bought to fit them. Carbatec for instance sell saws with 5/8" and 30mm arbours, but the only ones they advise are 'dado capable' are the 5/8" saws. Good reason to buy a 5/8" arbour saw, you can always fit a blade with a larger centre hole to a smaller arbour, but not the other way around.

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