Thread: electrolysis question

Electrolysis works by establishing a chemical reaction with the iron oxide of rust. It does not affect anything else.

It will only effect the Japaning if there is rust under it. There is a great article on MajorPanic's website Here just click on the "tools" tab and then go to "Handplane restoration" Very well explain and terrific WIP.

thanks. yeah i've been using Majors page as my guide to hand restoration but he doesn't discuss the rust removal v paint stripping capabilities of electrolysis.

looks like i just need some paint stripper for what i'm doing.

cheers
tom

Yep; just use paint stripper and an old toothbrush to remove the black Japan. Depending on what chemicals you add (sometimes unintentionally)to the electrolysis bath it can make the Japan go dull; Ok if there's enough there to revive again; but if the piece is that bad to need electrolysis then the Japan is almost definitely in a bad way as well. I restored a Disston saw vice (No. 3D) by bead blasting it then re-Japanned with 'ponytpool black Japan' since It came to me 'brown with rust' though I wouldn't ever recommend bead blasting a plane since you'll remove the authentic casting oxide layer as well and if you're not careful it will rust much quicker (I got it back on the vice by heating it up in an oven).

Originally Posted by munruben

There is a great article on MajorPanic's website Here ....

Yep, a great article on handplane resoration but not the best on the actual electrolysis process IMHO... particularly with the suggestion to use stainless steel as the anode. Using SS in his way produces chromium which is not good for you and bad to tip down the sink. Best to stick with regular iron/steel.

Below is a site I found useful in not only the how but the why of various steps in the electrolysis process.
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

Originally Posted by Mike B

Best to stick with regular iron/steel.

Agreed

Originally Posted by Mike B

Yep, a great article on handplane resoration but not the best on the actual electrolysis process IMHO... particularly with the suggestion to use stainless steel as the anode. Using SS in his way produces chromium which is not good for you and bad to tip down the sink. Best to stick with regular iron/steel.

Below is a site I found useful in not only the how but the why of various steps in the electrolysis process.
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

I though stainless had mainly nickle added as it's cheaper than chromium I know the chinese where using it a lot when nickle was mega expensive.

There is always more chromium than nickel in SS...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainle...tainless_steel

OK reading reports from stock market analysts is obviously not a good way to learn metallurgy. Thanks Mike

The old plane I was restoring had most of its japaning missing and it wasnt that rusty, so i just used citrus strip and it worked a treat. Two coats of epoxy enamel and she looks brand new. Was my first one, and it really is quite simple.

Tom

well here is what happened. my first restoration.

firstly a couple of "before" shots...


and now a few after shots.

Nice job, obviously a keeper.

thanks. I was surprised how well it came out. The sole has one spot of pitting about the size of a 5 cent piece, toward the heel. But its smooth and doesnt affect the performance of what will be my "fore" plane.