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Thread: enlighten me

  1. #1
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    Default enlighten me

    I suspect I know the answer but this https://www.facebook.com/75730864462...080337029/?t=7 looks to good to be true.

    so who has bought one and used it?
    are they worth while?

    what other options are there....please dont say chisel and mallet.
    I would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds

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  3. #2
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    That’s just the bits for the chisel Mortiser machine advertised . Cheap bits I’ve had are good though . Carbatec stuff . The chisel Mortiser as a way of cutting mortises is good if your asking that . I’m still using chisels and chain . Domino is pretty good too . Proper M&T is better in larger things like dining table size stuff .

  4. #3
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    How often would you have to sharpen the square portion of the “drill”?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #4
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    Not very often , sometimes never . What I’ve found is they gum and smoke and need a clean by soaking in caustic . If you let that go to far you can overheat the tool . The chisel or the drill and it loses its temper . And the drill breaks . Keep them clean and they are good for a long time . Lots of use and lots of guys using the machine meant it couldn’t always be kept in tune and I started building a collection of chisels that had no drill bits . I bought a end sharpening cutter for the chisels . Think I used it once ? I preferred using a die grinder with a cheap cone shaped stone rotating for the times I do sharpen .

  6. #5
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    Been using for years. Work great in light woods. Our hardwoods require a bit more respect. A soak in kero keeps em clean and lubed. In fact I store the chisels in kero .

  7. #6
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    You can get one quite a bit cheaper than a domino jointer but you have to make the tenon yourself.
    https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/W347
    That said I think unless you do a lot of M&T work then the chisel and mallet gets most of us by that only do M&Ts now and then. I have been tempted to get one but space killed that idea.
    Regards
    John

  8. #7
    rrich Guest

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    I have one. In a word MEH.

    The sides of the mortise are not that smooth. The hold downs critical and need to be loosened and retightened with every down stroke. The auger bit needs to be 2 to 2.5 mm below the square chisel and even then MEH.

    There is an article in Woodworkers Journal, pg. 27-28, October 2017 on building a mortising jig. In the US it cost less than $40 to build. You use it with a plunge router and clamped in a woodworking vise. You will have to round over the corners of the tenon with a '4 in hand' or a bit of sanding belt. Or square the mortise corners with a chisel. Neither is difficult. The jig works with 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2 inch router bits. Because I've never woodworked in metric I don't know the appropriate sizes, sorry.

  9. #8
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    I am thinking about a chisel mortiser myself having used a heavy duty floor model the make quick work of mortices (I would not opt for a bench top model). Was considering https://www.axminster.co.uk/sedgwick...er-mk2-ax21226 - A cheap Chinese version is not up to snuff I have used a Chinese version and they are full of problems. If you are making blind mortises with tenons that have shoulders, I think that the chisel mortiser is a leading choice. Also if you are making arts & crafts style pieces then it is also a good choice.

    However the mortises are not as clean as what I can get with a drill and pair method. However doing it by hand takes me (30 minute) by hand in comparison (2 minutes) with chisel mortiser however the drill and pair has no limits through, blind and angled mortises are no problem. But it requires chiseling skills.

    A router jig makes a better cleaner mortise than a chisel mortiser, however they can be time consuming in set up. The right bit, the right guide bushing and the right opening in the jig and you have to use maths to make sure you have the correct offsets.

    The Festool Domino is really the easiest and fastest of the lot with very high accuracy. However it's costly $2600++ and you cannot have exposed through joinery.

    The other option is a small milling machine something like this https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gri...lworking/G9959. its the best of chisel mortiser and the router. Easy setup, fast and clean mortises.

  10. #9
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    The cheap end light weight machines are not to good . The more they weigh the better generally .

    My smallest is one like this . https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/W345

    Its been very good and done lots of Big accurate work . Huge tables down to the smallest work . Don't let the chisel size limit your thinking as to what you can do with them . Ive done big trestle base tables needing large mortises big enough to put a hand through. Like 8 x 3 inch through mortise. Coming in from both sides and just mortising around the outside leaving a block in the middle to fall out . 3/8 and 1/2 inch chisels are mostly all that's needed.
    IMG_6794.jpg
    On my larger machines 5/8 is very nice in decent table building of a different sort. You can use 5/8 on the one linked as well . Tables where rails go into legs in the corner of the table . Not the trestle table .
    Angled mortises using 3/8 for good quality chair making are done by cutting an angled block to hold the chair leg off the back fence at the correct angle . All done on the small mortiser type in the link

    1 182.jpgimg299.jpgimg302.jpg

    For the tenons . I used to cut them all on a radial arm saw. And band saw off haunches .
    One of the easiest ways to tenon is a radial arm saw with a dado blade fitted . And a stop along the fence.
    I know a guy who ran a busy factory making high end French Provincial quality cherry furniture with ten guys working who tenoned everything on a RAS this way . Old RAS's are cheap


    The Domino has come along though and its taken part of the M&T work away from small type things . In some cases it beats M&T by being faster and easier to assemble custom one off smaller things. Its a very impressive machine . I have the larger one with an adapter to take the smaller cutters as well . I'm still learning what can be done with it all the time .

  11. #10
    rrich Guest

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    My mortiser is a Shop Fox. Yeah, double MEH. I have used a Powermatic at school. Better but underwhelming.

    As for the jig. Set up is easy and quick. The key to the jig is making a flat sided router plate for your router. (I used 3/8 Baltic Birch) and being a bit persnickety during the initial construction. It is possible to adjust the width of a 'Fence Spacer' to position the mortise any distance from the edge of the timber.

    If you can't find the article I can probably send you either a prepublication word document (Poor pictures) or a scan of the article. Send me an e-mail if you want a copy, richflynn at yahoo dot com.

  12. #11
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    Even the Wadkin MF (a 1-tonne, 3 phase, chain/chisel mortiser) struggles on many of our heavier timbers. And, as has already been said, they don't do as neat a job as one could achieve by hand.

    Nevertheless, in a production environment a mortiser is the bee's knees and I wouldn't want to be without one!

    I've never been satisfied with the smaller, bench-top versions sold for home wood-working; it appears that their effectiveness is directly proportional to their weight. There must be something to fill the range between these little versions and Wadkin's monster, but I haven't come across one yet.

    If I ever do and I have a few pennies to spare, it will be mine...
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  13. #12
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    It depends on what you are trying to do.

    I have a benchtop chisel morticer, delta I think it is. I've had a lot of work out of it and it works well. Through mortice ? no too rough. If you already own a decent router you can make a panto router. Provided you only need a limited number of sizes, every size needs another template. There are various commercial router jigs for M&T. Leigh have a really expensive one.

    I've also got a kreg pocket hole jig. Want to get it done fast, pocket hole. They have limitations. Simple and NOTHING is quicker because you don't have to wait for glue to dry. Depends on what you are doing.
    I'm just a startled bunny in the headlights of life. L.J. Young.
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  14. #13
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    Default

    You can buy a dedicated machine like this. Recommend only if you make a lot of these joints. Alternative is to buy a mortising attachment for your drill press. Uses the same.bits. If you practice a little and sharpen your chisel..

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