Thread: Epoxy disaster

Thank you for all of your replies and suggestions. I used the 105 resin with the 205 hardener. I will band file sand the top portion as suggested. I don't mind it being black as the steps are a dark type of jarrah like timber. I asked the guys at Carbatec what would be the best epoxy to use and that is what they recommended. I didn't use polyester as it does fall out over time when it isn't primed over. I found this out because we have been renovating forever :P any external timber filled with polyester failed after months when it wasn't primed so I now prime it within the day once I use it and it seems to never have issues. I am not sure how the epoxy will hold up outside being exposed to the elements but I figured it was the best option I could find. Seems like the heat was the issue! Will hit it again when I get a spare few hours and let you all know how it worked out.

Thanks again!

meth.

When filling large voids or fairing components in applications such as boat building a filler (talc or micro balloons) is normally added to the epoxy mix or a specific "filling & fairing" system is used - Filling & Fairing - ATL Composites useful link to West Systems guide to fillers https://www.westsystem.com/filler-selection-guide/

This is normally a more cost effective solution and also greatly reduces the issues with run away exothermic reactions. The down side - it is not suited to applications which feature the epoxy, but it can the poured / filled short then over topped with say a tinted epoxy.

I have been using Techniglue R60 which offers a slow or fast hardner to suit varying applications . Techniglue R60 - ATL Composites

Note most manufacturers of epoxy resins warn - "Do not attempt to control the cure time by altering the hardener ratio."

And no flames either

Apologies for the delay in responding to your disaster with Epoxy. Sounds like you have had some fun. First WEST Epoxy is based on old technology and the chemicals used in the hardener caused a hotter exothermic reaction than a modern technology epoxy like Bote Cote. Next Bote Cote is much Safer to Use than old technology epoxies. The following Link provides info on the advantages of Bote Cote over other epoxies with the main one's being it is Safer & Easier to use - http://www.boatcraftnsw.com/wp-conte...Cote-20142.pdf. Plus being Aussie developed and made you will probably save some money also.
A few tips to help get a clear pour;
- Warm the timber before you start.
- Warm the resin to warm to touch. Do not warm the hardener. This will reduce air entrapment when mixing. Bote cote Resin is very similar to honey. When cold it will crystalise - warm it and it becomes very fluid and mixes easily.
- Pour in layers and let settle for at least 30 minutes between pours. The main reason is to allow air bubbles to come to the surface.
- Do not use open flame burner to burst air bubbles as this increases the exothermic reaction and a good chance of damaging the resin , especially in holes. Also, if you warm the timber it will start to release air & moisture and this is a major source of air bubbles.
- Bote Cote has a genuine Non Yellowing Hardener or use Bote Cote Epoxy pigments if you want solid colours or Feast Watson Proof Tint for staining. Do not use oxide powder as it makes the epoxy brittle plus it discolours it when sanded.
BoatCraft is developing a Casting Resin that solves a lot of the issues raised and it will be ideal for doing Rivers.
There is heaps more info on our website at http://www.boatcraftnsw.com/products/epoxy/bote-cote/ .
We also enjoy helping customers achieve good results as a lot of what you are doing revolves around technique.

Originally Posted by Dave Giddings

http://www.boatcraftnsw.com/products/epoxy/bote-cote/ .
We also enjoy helping customers achieve good results as a lot of what you are doing revolves around technique.

Dave as many pen makers are now experimenting with epoxy finishes, does Bote-cote produce a finishing epoxy suitable as a pen finish? Would Aquacote be suitable? and can it be mixed in very small batches?

Thanks for your question, and the answer is Yes & No.
Bote cote - Yes you could use it but it takes time to dry. If you pre- heat the timber to around 60C it will work well in sealing soft and porous timbers which present open grain such as Aussie Cedar. It will draw the Bote Cote in as it cools down and will densify the timber. If using as a coating you will need to leave the lathe turning slowly once the grain is filled or it will slump.

Aquacote Clear - Absolutely brilliant for coating timber as it dries fast and small quantities can be mixed. Plus leftover can be poured back into the container for later. Therefore no waste. For first coat apply full strength and let it draw into timber. Let dry for an hour or so and lightly sand if there is raised grain. Add about 20% water for subsequent coats and apply next coat after an hour or so with no requirement to sand between coats. If too thick, add more water.

Again it is technique- But a lot safer than playing with products like supaglue.