Thread: Establishing A Practical Workshop

Hi Woodsy. For about $40 bucks you can sign up to Fine Woodworking as an electronic subscriber. This should give you access to their previous articles. On the member home page I can access an entire book answering many of the questions you have raised (called Setting Up Shop). There was also a recent issue with small, medium and large workshop layouts. For the money it's a good way to go. The only concern I have is I have been a member for a few years and I'm not sure if you'd be able to access it as a new subscriber.

Magazines can give you some great ideas but like some posts on this forum they are somewhat artificial as they usually shown what the authors want you to see and its pretty obvious at times that the shed owners have gone to a lot of trouble to tidy up before the photos are shot.

A no cost start would be to read through the "SHED" forum on this website. Not only can you see lots of sheds and shed interiors but often how they went about building/doing it and you should be able to contact the individual members and ask specific questions

What is really worth investigating are workshops in action, things like, how machine layout, how well does it really work, how various projects are managed while they work on them, how they manage their dust extraction etc - not just looking at passive dust extraction systems but seeing seeing how well dust is being captured while being generated. Look in the corners of a shed and on surfaces to see how much dust has settled there.

One thing I found as important as "how do do something" is "how not to do it" . That can usually only be seen by visiting other peoples sheds and talking to them directly. Ask them to show you problems and what they would do if they start again.

Once you have done all that then it would be time to draw up a scale plan and lay out all your existing machines and materials inside the plan and allow for any possible new machines and materials.

As well as Fine woodworking I would take a look at Popular Woodworking and the Taunton Press and check their titles with your local library and ILL (Inter Library Loan)

Lots of info

I think a vital part of the workshop is natural light, what works for pre-fab kitchen making with lots of overhead fluoros does not work for real wood and handtool work on benches

Look at the systems and the options but don't try to tie yourself to a rigid plan until you have the site

When I put my workshop together it didn't work however I rearranged it, until I realised that I was organising everything around a panel/table saw which was probably my least used tool. What I got for it secondhand will probably pay for my cutting till about 2070.(Make a connection with a small office/kitchen fitout company)

Neil

You may like to watch this Vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmDAInbnPYQ

and all his vids on Woodworking are great. Very inspiring, and to me, he has the Dream Workshop. In the video above, he explains some of the rationale behind they way he designed it etc. It also helps that his videos are very professionally edited and shot. Be sure to check out some of his other stuff too - my fav is the 'Lawn Chair 2' video

Natural lighting is a very good point but unfortunately it's usually obtained at the cost of tall wall (storage) space which is a premium in a small shed .
I have two small windows and 4m long x 300 mm wide roofline window in my shed but that has been slowly covered up with materials being stored up in the roof and the addition of ventilators, so this is nowhere near enough and even when I have the two doors open I still find I use lighting most of the time.

If you have the space then lots of shaded windows all around the shed are really the way to go but try to avoid installing tall storage cabinets in the middle as this will clutter the shed

To keep a light and open space all the way through replace tall storage with drawers type storage under benches.

One of the most useful things in my shed are the shallow drawers in a map/plan cabinet.
They are quite expensive new and even second hand but are well worth getting hold of.
They can hold a large amount of small stuff like fixings that are easy to see all at once -much better than all those little drawers for each item.

More details here https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...02#post1326902

My suggestions based on personal experience are as follows:


Calculate the floor space needed for all of your extant or anticipated machinery, workbenches and storage. Once you have that figure multiply by 2.5 to obtain your final requirements - at least for the next year or so.

Add up the amperage of all anticipated equipment, heaters, lights and so forth. Then multiply by 5. This is how much power you need.

If you live in an area with hot summers, add about 50% of your floorspace in the form of open-walled but covered work area.

Use 10' ceilings if code allows.

Plan to use the attic space, high center rafters are a must, if you can use the king post style for maximum volume. Add in plywood to create a floor in the attic for storage.

If you can bring in some water, cold only. Leave the toilet for the house because shop toilets become a more modern version of the Augean Stables if you know what I mean. Orient the shed so that you have a private corner out back...

Plan for outdoor storage - a place to put long lumber, future projects and etc. is a blessing that will keep SWMBO and the neighbors off your back over the mess.

Cheers,
Rob

I know this might see overly simplistic but a lot of the details of your shop will be influenced by what you want to make and what you eventually want to sell if possible.

I have seen some pro shops that seem almost barren compared to a hobby shop as they only have the bare essentials in there to get the job done and are a worksite not a retreat and they generally make a limited amount of products for sale. however if you are going to spend a lot of time in there I would personally like to make it as comfortable as possible with air conditioning or heating depending on your location.

As others have said good natural light is desired as it is so much better than electric and I would also consider if you intend to do other tasks in your shed? for example I do some metal work, welding, woodworking and also service my car / motor bile as well as the odd bit of gardening equipment maintenance as well. so if you intend to do this make sure you allow for separate areas that are set aside for these tasks.

This makes my shop versatile but not very efficient for a production environment.

Just my 2 cents

Steve

Originally Posted by rob streeper

My suggestions based on personal experience are as follows:


Calculate the floor space needed for all of your extant or anticipated machinery, workbenches and storage. Once you have that figure multiply by 2.5 to obtain your final requirements - at least for the next year or so.

Add up the amperage of all anticipated equipment, heaters, lights and so forth. Then multiply by 5. This is how much power you need.

If you live in an area with hot summers, add about 50% of your floorspace in the form of open-walled but covered work area.

Use 10' ceilings if code allows.

Plan to use the attic space, high center rafters are a must, if you can use the king post style for maximum volume. Add in plywood to create a floor in the attic for storage.

If you can bring in some water, cold only. Leave the toilet for the house because shop toilets become a more modern version of the Augean Stables if you know what I mean. Orient the shed so that you have a private corner out back...

Plan for outdoor storage - a place to put long lumber, future projects and etc. is a blessing that will keep SWMBO and the neighbors off your back over the mess.

Cheers,
Rob

Dear Rob

Good to hear from an American cousin, from San Antonia no less, a much fabled city. I must say however i don't like your basketball team, even if it has a couple of Australians on its roster,

till last year i was a Miami man, (mostly because of Lebron and DWade), now i have reverted back to my first love Cleveland (because

of Lebron of course), if he isn't the complete player.

Anyways I didn't contact you to talk Basketball, hell you may not even like it! I've heard some people don't!?

Just a short note thanking you for your suggestions, experience truly is the best teacher in life, but as my father used to say "the fees are high".

Fortunately i have time, to contemplate my options, it will be some 12 months before i find a site and start construction. I hope to use this time well in thorough research, and planning before i leap in.

This will be a first and only attempt at this type of construction, at my age and as such, i need to get as much of it right, the first time. As i can.

It will be a sanctuary, like all good woodshops are, but it would also be nice if I could make it turn an income as well, albiet a small one at least.

My budget like most is restricted, but at least i have one. I hope to wisely make the most of it. However i imagine there are many traps for young players (or older players for that matter like me),

much to consider and be aware of in the lead up and of course during construction.

I am priviledged to have the opportunity, through forums such as this to walk in the steps of those who have gone before, it is a priceless thing.

Your advice is duly noted and will be factored in. Anything more you can think of during the next 12 months, would also be greatly appreciated, and if you have any pictures of your "baby" that you could post up,

that would be a bonus.

I am a carpenter by trade, although i have not worked in that trade for some years now, so i am excited and a little daunted by it at the same time.


Thanks and Cheers


Pete (aka Woodsy15)

When I started I had a garage that was shared with my car. That has since moved out of the garage and the space used for machines and storage. I started just with flat work and now moved into turning as well as flat work.

As my space is of a fixed nature I have had to find ways to utilize the space available. I already know that it is far from being appropriately utilized. It is a work in progress and that might continue for a while longer as I modify storage and options available. The lighting in the work space is always on, along with the radio while I am in the garage.

Dust is a problem either from what I produce or from the surrounds. So when it comes time to finish a piece I tend to finish inside the house.

I have made a bench grinder stand with shallow draws and I have found this very practical, so I will be making another one just for small tools and parts. I have shelves that I use with small plastic tubs that I have labeled on the outside. The tubs reduce the dust from settling onto every item that I have. Labeling makes it easier to locate something and it is just a roll of masking tape which makes it so easy to change.

Some comments, perhaps some silly comments.

If you are building in the Dandenongs, consider fire safety. You will probably want the building insulated due to cold winters, hot summers.
Allow for dust extractor and perhaps air compressor to be located externally.
What are you making? If biggish stuff then have a door big enough so it can easily leave the workshop, also allows supplied and machines to come in.
Space for storage, room to work and room to move materials around. (Secure)Home for tools and place to maintain.
Allow room to grow.
Running water is useful, to clean your hands, make a brew and to cool sharpening stones and paint brushes.
You probably will not have enough socket outlets, if you can have 3 phase available you will not limit yourself when purchasing machines.
As one member has done, consider having a services trench.

If you can visit other people's home workshop to see what they have done.

Hope this has been helpful.

40000 should give you a good shed. I currently work in a 9 m by 6 m shed but it is a bit small. We are moving and I have received quotes from Titan to build, slab and all a 12 m by 6 m for 16000. I have built 3 previous shed myself but this time I will be getting somebody else to do it. So 40000 if you do the work yourself will go a long way. I suggest you pay attention to insulation. A shed can become an oven in summer and a fridge in winter.

Pete,

Did exactly what you are doing, starting from scratch, about 12 years ago. If I had my time again I would contact forum members and ask if I could visit their sheds. Most are only too happy to help, and you will get a bunch of ideas.

As already mentioned, light is important. My shed is 12 ft high (a real boon) and has a row of high windows on two walls that let in a fair bit of light. Still, on dull days you are going to need LOTS of light. I have five banks of double fluros, but if doing it again it would be seven or eight.

Roller doors right along one side of the shed with good cross ventilation is a good idea. You lose wall space, but get more natural light and better ventilation.

I make furniture and a have a shed about the size of a three car garage. Given my time again, it would be about the size of a four car garage ... and if space permitted, a bit bigger.

Do yourself a favour and plan for great dust extraction from the outset. BobL is our resident dust extraction guru.

If you know what type of stuff you will primarily make already, get some graph paper and start making a shed design including layout of machines. Play with the design as you visit sheds.

My first shed was a steel 9M X 6M stand alone building. I live in Brisbane, so winter was not an issue. In summer the shed turned into an oven. I put a row of sprinklers along the ridge of the roof and that helped a fair bit, but as suggested by Chook, insulation is a good idea if you can swing it. I did not have enough room on the current block for a free-standing shed, so it is part of the brick veneer house and both roof and walls are insulated ... heaven compared to the old shed.

If possible, build a garden shed so you don't need to share your woodie shed with other stuff (or make the shed bigger).

As already mentioned, consider an awning about 8 ft wide along one side of the shed, if the budget allows.

Power requirements can be mission critical. I don't have 3 phase, and use a VFD to drive my only 3 phase motor, but you will need to ensure you have plenty of power to the shed. The cost of initial installation is low compared to the cost of upgrading ... by a long way. In my shop the biggest power draw happens when I need to drive the dusty (15 amps), the big band saw (15 amps) and the compressor (15 amps) simultaneously. Work out your max power needs, and add a bit ... you will likely add machines as you go along. My power requirements were calculated for a one man shop. Then my eldest son got involved, and the max power draw can jump a fair bit when you have two people working in the shop.

Most of these things have been covered by other posters, but it seemed wise to reinforce the points that are important to me. However, until you know what kind of jobs you will be doing in the shed, it is tough to give definitive advice.

My new shed will have proper insulation in the roof and I may even put an insulated ceiling in. The walls will be lined with yellow tongue and I will put R3 batts behind. In summer I cannot get into my current shed during the day. As for size, no shed is ever big enough. I suppose I am a bit of a hoarder (throwing out bits of timber, screws or nails hurts) so the bigger the better.

If at all possible, make all work surfaces exactly the same height. Makes it much easier to transfer and use multiple surfaces at once etc.