Thread: European hinges

I'm sure that some cabinet makers will be able to help - but you will need a 35 mm forstner drill bit or something similar and a 5 mm drill bit for the screws. Everything is based on the 32mm system. templates are easy enough to make using thin ply.
Blum and Hafele have information on their websites which would be of help.

Regards,

If you have a look at the four technical information sheets on this link it might help you http://www.woodfit.com/index.php?cPath=221

This information relates specifically to Blum hinges, but it might be enough of a guide for the job you are doing.

Hope this helps

Paul

Tiger,
to keep it simple, ditch any euro screws and plastic dowels/plugs that came with the hinges. Use a 35mm forstner bit centred 21mm from the door's edge and bore a hole for the cup. Place the hinge in the hole, square it up and use two 6 gauge x 16mm csk screws to fix in place. On the carcasse rule a line 35 - 37 mm from the front edge. Lay the carcasse on its back and offer the door up into position. Lean the door back so the hinges are fully open. Using 8 gauge x 16mm panhead screws fix the hinge in place. If using 170 degree hinges it will be easier to fit the door first with 110 deg hinges to get the placement right and then swap back to the 170s.

This is how I did it before I had a inge boring/inserting machine, and quite a few of the smaller manufacturers do it this way also.

Mick

Originally Posted by journeyman Mick

Tiger,
to keep it simple, ditch any euro screws and plastic dowels/plugs that came with the hinges. Use a 35mm forstner bit centred 21mm from the door's edge and bore a hole for the cup. Place the hinge in the hole, square it up and use two 6 gauge x 16mm csk screws to fix in place. On the carcasse rule a line 35 - 37 mm from the front edge. Lay the carcasse on its back and offer the door up into position. Lean the door back so the hinges are fully open. Using 8 gauge x 16mm panhead screws fix the hinge in place. If using 170 degree hinges it will be easier to fit the door first with 110 deg hinges to get the placement right and then swap back to the 170s.

This is how I did it before I had a inge boring/inserting machine, and quite a few of the smaller manufacturers do it this way also.

Mick

On the carcasse rule a line 37 mm from the front edge.

My local Home hardware, as well as the local kitchen/joinery hardware supplier, have a snazzy little template made by Hettich for their hinges. Works with other brands as well. No measuring required, always sits perfect first time. Costs a few dollars, less than 5 anyway. Also works with the mini hinges.
If you can't find one, send me a PM and I can get you one.

What if the hinges are for face frame style cabinets?

My understanding is that euro style implies 32mm system carcasses of melamine board products. The face frame is the older and non-euro way.

Cheers
Pulse

Thanks, guys. I will give your ideas a go on some scrap and see how they work. One thing I forgot to mention though is that I think I have a fair variety of hinges in that some are inset, some are full overlay and some could be half overlay. Is there any easy way to tell them apart?

Originally Posted by Just George

On the carcasse rule a line 37 mm from the front edge.

They are adjustable. 37mm is standard but I've drilled them by hand and it doesn't have to be accurate to the mm.

Originally Posted by Pulse

My understanding is that euro style implies 32mm system carcasses of melamine board products. The face frame is the older and non-euro way.

Cheers
Pulse

About half of the hinges from Blum (euro style) are intended for use on face frame cabinets. A couple of years ago I was able to score about 100 of these hinges for $25US. I've been using them in the shop for my cabinets.

The face frame style are pretty rare over here. I need to get hold of some because I'll be building my cupboards with face frames. $25US huh? That's a good price

Originally Posted by silentC

The face frame style are pretty rare over here. I need to get hold of some because I'll be building my cupboards with face frames. $25US huh? That's a good price

Silent,
I used Blum hinges for all my face frame cabs. The hinge is the same, but the plate that fixes to the carcass is different. It attaches to the face frame. The plates cost about $1 each and is obtainable from Lincoln Sentry.
Les

Originally Posted by silentC

The face frame style are pretty rare over here. I need to get hold of some because I'll be building my cupboards with face frames. $25US huh? That's a good price

Hi Silentc,

I finished my kitchen cabinets last month and used BLUM full overlay hinges with a 20mm face frame on all of my cabinets with no problems. I mounted the hinges in the door with the centre of the 35mm hinge boring bit 37mm in from the edge and 100mm from each end. The mounting plates inside the cabinets attached to the cabinet sides no problems. My face frames were only 0.5mm smaller then the actual cabinet carcus.

All of the cabinets have pull out drawers rather then internal shelves and I did have to mount the drawer runners on cleats to allow clearance for the drawers to move past the hinges. Sick of making boxes byb the end too :confused:

Cheers,

buz.

Good oh, I'll check out both methods when I get to it. I've got a couple of books here and they both use a face frame version of the hinges. If I can work it so that the face frame is flush with the inside of the cabinet, I guess I can use the standard ones in most cases and maybe use the plates and attach to the frames when I can't.