Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    22

    Default Filling termite-eaten front step

    Hi folks. Our front doorstep is an old piece of hardwood - possibly jarrah, but not sure. Whatever, difficult to find a replacement these days, I believe, and it looks like a very difficult job replacing it since the current step performs a support function. Would much rather fill the termite damage, if possible.

    What do you think is the best way to approach this? I was thinking builders bog initially, then maybe some sort of wood filler to finish off? An old retired carpenter I got talking to a while back said he'd mix wood glue with sawdust and use that, but I haven't come across this idea anywhere else.

    Whatever, open to all suggestions. I don't really have any idea whether I'm thinking along the right lines, and re-shaping the corner of the step looks like a challenge. Maybe there's another solution? Would be appreciative of any tips or recommendations.

    Some pics of the step can be viewed at the following link (top of page):

    http://s592.photobucket.com/user/ros...=recent&page=1


    Cheers
    Ross

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Of The Boarder
    Age
    68
    Posts
    16,794

    Default

    Best choice is to replace it, not easy by the looks of it but it can be done.

    Yes PVA and shaving or dust is my dad's old way and teacher at school & Tech I have used it but never for something as big a hole as they are. My choice there would be shaving/dust and epoxy.

    BUT choice No1 is replace.

    In looking at the photo again a replacement can be done without total removal. Cut out the worst section to depth of clean area and width replace with new Jarrah if thats what it is.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wheelinround View Post
    Best choice is to replace it, not easy by the looks of it but it can be done.

    Yes PVA and shaving or dust is my dad's old way and teacher at school & Tech I have used it but never for something as big a hole as they are. My choice there would be shaving/dust and epoxy.

    BUT choice No1 is replace.

    In looking at the photo again a replacement can be done without total removal. Cut out the worst section to depth of clean area and width replace with new Jarrah if thats what it is.
    Thanks, wheelinround. Another question in response, please. How would you go about cutting away the bad section as you suggest?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    4,236

    Default

    Have a look at Earls Wood Hardener , available in Bunnings, if you cannot replace the timber or any part of it.
    regards,

    Dengy

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    3,260

    Default

    A multitool would be my tool of choice for taking out the damaged area; use a spare length of timber as a guide to get a nice straight cut. Really depends on what tools you have!

    Or fill with a mix of epoxy + flour (for bulk) + iron oxide (for colour).

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dengue View Post
    Have a look at Earls Wood Hardener , available in Bunnings, if you cannot replace the timber or any part of it.
    Thanks, Dengue - will check that out.

    Cheers
    Ross

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Master Splinter View Post
    A multitool would be my tool of choice for taking out the damaged area; use a spare length of timber as a guide to get a nice straight cut. Really depends on what tools you have!

    Or fill with a mix of epoxy + flour (for bulk) + iron oxide (for colour).
    I'd never heard of a 'multitool' until now, Master Splinter. Just looked it up on Wikipedia! Could you please recommend a reasonable quality one I could chase down at Bunnings etc, that you think would be suitable for this job?

    Also, when you say "epoxy", what product specifically are you referring to that could be mixed with flour and iron oxide, and what are the proportions of each ingredient relative to the epoxy, pls?

    Cheers
    Ross

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

    Default

    Hi Ross

    IMO,
    using any form of filler will end up looking dodgy

    only replacing the visibly eaten section will look dodgy. Also, it's possible the "undamaged" section is also eaten out as is the door frame.

    If I were doing the job, I'd cut the entire step out and fit a new one.


    Although Woollies sells a version of the multi-tool, buying the tools to do the job yourself, including the blades you will need might work out more expensive than paying someone to do the job for you.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    3,260

    Default

    I've got a cheapo Ozito multitool ($75) which I've been happy enough with for occasional use. A few spare blades to help you cut the damaged part off wouldn't go astray, either, if it is a hard timber like jarrah. If you're lucky, you'll be able to find a piece of suitable thickness hardwood to make a replacement section at Bunnies while you're there

    A proper carbide tipped saw blade in one of those bi-rotating saws would make shorter work of it, all except for the bits right near the edges.

    Or Bote Cote epoxy ( http://boatcraft.com.au/Shop/index.p...index&cPath=15 ) or similar from your nearest marine shop. Basically, it's Araldite without the Selleys mark-up on price. Mix as directed, brush lightly onto the (80 grit sanded) surface of the hole to wet out the timber, then thicken the remaining mix with flour or chalk or sawdust and iron oxide till it's good and thick, and glob it in and smooth it down. Leave for 24 hours then sand flat.

    Read the use guides at the west epoxy site for more info - http://www.westsystem.com/

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Of The Boarder
    Age
    68
    Posts
    16,794

    Default

    Seems the guys have replied as I would have re-removal and retro fit of a piece.

    I'd still replace the whole step.

    Buy the time you buy he tools it'll be cheaper to get someone in to do it, maybe one of the WA fellows on here might like some additional $$$.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    Hi Ross

    IMO,
    using any form of filler will end up looking dodgy

    only replacing the visibly eaten section will look dodgy. Also, it's possible the "undamaged" section is also eaten out as is the door frame.

    If I were doing the job, I'd cut the entire step out and fit a new one.


    Although Woollies sells a version of the multi-tool, buying the tools to do the job yourself, including the blades you will need might work out more expensive than paying someone to do the job for you.
    Yes, you may well be right, Ian and wheelinround. So, may I ask, what sort of tradesman would handle a job like this? I guess the doorway and wall adjacent would need to be supported while the step was removed - sounds like more than a carpenter would normally tackle? If anyone from Perth who can do this job is watching on, would welcome a PM.

    And Master Splinter, thanks v much for your information. Whether I end up DIYing in this case or not, good to know about the things you've mentioned.

    Cheers
    Ross

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    696

    Default

    My $0.02...I would remove the old timber sill entirely and pour concrete in there and paint red like the rest is.


Similar Threads

  1. Rust removal with Citric Acid - pictorial step by step
    By FenceFurniture in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 46
    Last Post: 4th April 2018, 10:58 AM
  2. Excellent step-by-step instructions for MAloof-style rockers
    By TassieKiwi in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 14th December 2006, 01:57 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •