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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
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    Canberra
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    Question Fixing timber blades to dowel

    Hi, I've searched around for advice but haven't found any ideas yet on this problem I have.

    I am building a screen made of timber "blades". The blades will likely be 100mm x 20mm boards, spaced around 30mm apart, so that their large faces face each other.

    To space them out, I'd like to use 60mm dowel.
    I've added a sketch to show what I mean below.

    So I have two options:
    1) cut the dowel into 30mm lengths and glue? them in place, trying to be accurate with placement so that it looks like one continuous dowel.
    2) drill 60mm holes in each timber board and slide them onto the dowel - but how to fix them, and hold them 30mm apart?

    Any ideas?

    Appreciate the advice!

    screen example.png

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Default

    I presume you mean drill a 6mm hole not a 60mm hole?

    I would drill, mark the dowel for spacing, insert the dowel, add glue to the dowel on the spacing line then slide the blade into place.

    Much easier than cutting dowel length and trying to align.
    Last edited by Lappa; 9th July 2019 at 01:32 PM. Reason: Removed my picture as one has now been added in original post

  4. #3
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    Feb 2018
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    Victoria, Australia
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    I agree with Lappa, drill the boards. You could get some hose and cut it in 30mm lengths to get the spacing and hold the boards in place until the glue dries. Cut the hose to 30mm lengths and slit, so as you can get it back off the dowels. If you don't like the hose use some 30mm wide tape around the dowels.
    Cheers, Tom.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
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    You will never get alignment plus loose most of the strength if you cut up the dowel. Best way is drill the slats. Use wood block spacers and clamps to hold things in place while glue sets. You will have to assemble on a flat surface too to prevent the whole thing becoming twisted.
    To prevent glue smeared all along the dowel stop a slat thickness from final position with the dowel and put a ring of glue round the dowel at each joint then push dowel that final bit home. A dry run will be needed first to practice and get an idea of time needed and also a glue that takes a long time to set. If that is not realistic with glue time then do a few slats, let it set then a few more.
    And welcome to the forum.
    Regards
    John

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    Perth W.A
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    If was doing this and wanted to make it with no visible fixings I would start with a much smaller dowel or even a metal rod which would go through continuously from one side to the other. I would then get some larger diameter wooden dowel and drill down the end with a hole to match the smaller dowel or rod.
    You can drill down short sections of dowel and then cut them to the length of the spacing you want.
    You are basically making wooden spacers that look like wooden bobbins.
    The whole thing can than easily be threaded together.

  7. #6
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    Going by the proportions in the sketch I think he/she does mean 60mm dowel.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark david View Post
    If was doing this and wanted to make it with no visible fixings I would start with a much smaller dowel or even a metal rod which would go through continuously from one side to the other. I would then get some larger diameter wooden dowel and drill down the end with a hole to match the smaller dowel or rod.
    You can drill down short sections of dowel and then cut them to the length of the spacing you want.
    You are basically making wooden spacers that look like wooden bobbins.
    The whole thing can than easily be threaded together.
    That would be an easier way and likely produce a cleaner outcome with less glue mess. If you used all thread rod then that can do the clamping also.
    Regards
    John

    T

  9. #8
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    Jan 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    Going by the proportions in the sketch I think he/she does mean 60mm dowel.
    The OP posted the blades being 100mm x 20mm. Now is that 100mm long and 20mm wide ( which I took it to be hence my 6mm dowel) or
    100mm wide, 20mm thick and length not given?

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Brisbane
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark david View Post
    If was doing this and wanted to make it with no visible fixings I would start with a much smaller dowel or even a metal rod which would go through continuously from one side to the other. I would then get some larger diameter wooden dowel and drill down the end with a hole to match the smaller dowel or rod.
    You can drill down short sections of dowel and then cut them to the length of the spacing you want.
    You are basically making wooden spacers that look like wooden bobbins.
    The whole thing can than easily be threaded together.
    I’d go this method. Metal rod for strength


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #10
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    Assuming normal grain orientation in the timbers, for strength, any glue joints are going to be suspect. Side-grain to end-grain? Not a good choice.

    For any durability, Orraloon is spot on; I'd go the all-thread route and make complete panels.

    If the panels are going to be painted there's no need for the spacers to be timber either. Metal or PVC pipe would do the job just as well, weather better and be more easily sourced to fit the all-thread...

    With this method you can also easily angle the panels should you so desire. It's just a matter of cutting the spacers at the required angles as well as lengths.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lappa View Post
    The OP posted the blades being 100mm x 20mm. Now is that 100mm long and 20mm wide ( which I took it to be hence my 6mm dowel) or
    100mm wide, 20mm thick and length not given?
    He wants to put the holes through the 100mm face.
    CHRIS

  13. #12
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    My method would be to get a forstner bit of the same diameter as the dowel and cut a 5mm deep counterbore on each face of the boards, then cut the dowels into 40mm thick slices. With 5mm at each end now buried in the “blades” you get the 30mm spacing you’re after. A simple jig on a drill press can be knocked up in a few minutes to accurately locate the counterbores.

    If the fit is fairly tight then glue alone will probably be enough but you also have the option of drilling a hole down the centre of everything and clamping it all up with a length of threaded bar.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    He wants to put the holes through the 100mm face.
    That’s been obvious from the start (we have all seen the picture and I posted one but deleted it after the OP added theirs) but is it 20mm thick or 20mm wide?? If 20mm wide you obviously can’t use a 60mm dowel hence my question and mention of 6mm dowel, which is yet to be answered by the OP.

    If it’s 100mm wide and 20mm thick and undetermined lengths, then Mark’s idea is spot on

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lappa View Post
    If it’s 100mm wide and 20mm thick and undetermined lengths, then Mark’s idea is spot on
    It's that.

  16. #15
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    Jul 2019
    Location
    Canberra
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    4

    Smile

    Thanks guys, the threaded rod up the middle of the 60mm dowels cut into 30mm lengths is a great idea.

    Any tips on how to best drill the hole up the middle of the dowel lengths? Stack them in a jig in a drill press? I'll need to make around 240 of these "spacers".

    Really appreciate the advice guys - awesome!

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