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  1. #16
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    If you can get to a Timbecon they have a 1/4” to 1/2” collet adaptor for $9, just picked one up a couple of minutes ago for a project I’m working on.

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  3. #17
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    May 2009
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    melb
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    Ah cool - cant get the timbecon but I notice that bunnings has one too:
    https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftmas...outer_p6372144

  4. #18
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    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    I think for router bits I will go with the carbitool surface planer
    https://www.google.com.au/search?q=c...EqnM8gem6r7wCA
    I would strongly advise against a 6-flute bit unless you can turn the speed waaay down on your router and/or can move VERY fast.

    There was a thread here a while ago with someone who couldn't understand why it was burning everything. Basically it's spinning so fast that it's scraping the timber, not cutting it. Scraping generates a lot of heat and heat destroys cutting edges very quickly.

    The Onsrud catalogue (AKA the feed-rate bible) recommends a feed of 5-15 m/min at 12k-16k rpm respectively on a 2-flute, 2" wide surface planing bit; a 6-flute will triple that. Note that that bit is in the "Solid surface" section of the catalogue, so it's been made for acrylic benchtop material, rather than timber.

    You can use that bit if you really want to, but it won't be long before it's blunt and burning your work.

    Try to find a 2-flute planing bit, or even just a wide 2-flute straight bit.

  5. #19
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    melb
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    Thanks. I had no idea.

    Ill look through the catalog. I actually have some 2 flute bits which may be suitable, they arent huge though will have to check

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    I think for router bits I will go with the carbitool surface planer
    https://www.google.com.au/search?q=c...EqnM8gem6r7wCA

    and the carbitool inverted flush
    https://www.totaltools.com.au/42708-...4-shank-t8216b

    You guys think they will be suitable? is 2 cutter heads for the inverted flush enough (ie will it be a rough cut?)
    Elan has answered re the unsuitability of your suggested surface planer bit.

    Your proposed flush trim bit is IMO also not suitable.
    You need a proper rebate or dado bit -- flush trim bits are not designed to produce a flat bottom rebate, rebate and dado bits are.
    If you can't find a suitable bit with a bottom bearing guide, you can use a guide bush template follower https://www.carbatec.com.au/routing-...brass-bush-set with a non-bearing bit
    Tricky bit when using guide bushings is getting the off set between the guide collar and the cutter right.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  7. #21
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    Meant to include comment on
    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    In terms of glue - I looked at that thread - clear epoxy seems to be the suggestion. you guys think I should just glue the edge of the glass to the wood (glass might be 6mm think)? Or the entire surface which is sitting to the glass (more risk of air bubbles)
    get the glass before you cut the rebate.
    Make sure you and the glass supplier understand what you are trying to do. The glass guy may even have suggestions of a suitable adhesive, or retainer
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  8. #22
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    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
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    Have you considered making a frame around the 2 pieces to be side by side, and using dyed epoxy resin? could save you a lot of trouble.........



    This is my dining table, and you can see the epoxy is still very effective........nah, just kidding, its on my ta do list, as opposed to the ta dah list, you know the one you wave goodbye to cos no time to do it all.

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    Your proposed flush trim bit is IMO also not suitable.
    You need a proper rebate or dado bit -- flush trim bits are not designed to produce a flat bottom rebate, rebate and dado bits are.
    False. ALL square-ended router bits will produce a flat bottom rebate equally well

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    Meant to include comment on get the glass before you cut the rebate.
    Make sure you and the glass supplier understand what you are trying to do. The glass guy may even have suggestions of a suitable adhesive, or retainer
    Yep good idea

    Quote Originally Posted by Fumbler View Post
    Have you considered making a frame around the 2 pieces to be side by side, and using dyed epoxy resin? could save you a lot of trouble.........



    This is my dining table, and you can see the epoxy is still very effective........nah, just kidding, its on my ta do list, as opposed to the ta dah list, you know the one you wave goodbye to cos no time to do it all.
    It might be a consideration for a future project but I really like the look of glass. Plus, as a beginner its a project where I can learn to use a router

    Hows this one:
    carbitool T1464 - $84.10 (seems so expensive!)

  11. #25
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    That bit should work fine. Also not really expensive for a bit that size

  12. #26
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    There is also carbitool T1432 - 32mm diameter for $42

    CMT equiv is this which seems cheaper.
    https://www.carbatec.com.au/31-7d-x-...-bit-1-2-shaft

    So I read mixed responses regarding CMT vs carbitool - what are people's thoughts

  13. #27
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    Oops, hit like by accident

    They are not equivalent. The CMT is 5mm long, the Carbitool is 38mm long, hence the price difference.

    For surfacing, the CMT would be better simply because you don't need the length

  14. #28
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    Thanks - how about the general quality of the bits, staying sharp, clean cuts - is one brand better than other?

  15. #29
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    I've never used CMT, but I know Carbitool are excellent and they're made in Melbourne so you get to support Aussie business

  16. #30
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    Apr 2006
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    Default Talk to Your Glazier

    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    Meant to include comment on get the glass before you cut the rebate.
    Make sure you and the glass supplier understand what you are trying to do. The glass guy may even have suggestions of a suitable adhesive, or retainer
    This is crucial.

    Qwertyu, I suggest that you make a female template and then go and talk to your glazier. He will advise you on the types of glass and costs, the risks of breakage in cutting and will recommend quite gentle curves. These risks will be factored into his quote and you might be horrified. Then get the glass cut and edge polished.

    Cut glass will always be a little different from the template. Then, either adjust the template or make a new one - probably the latter.

    Then proceed as advised.

    Whatever you do, do not cut the rebate until you have the glass cut. It will not fit.

    This is one of those projects that looks simple but is actually quite advanced!


    Cheers

    Graeme

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