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28th March 2018, 08:28 PM #16
If you can get to a Timbecon they have a 1/4” to 1/2” collet adaptor for $9, just picked one up a couple of minutes ago for a project I’m working on.
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28th March 2018, 09:00 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
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Ah cool - cant get the timbecon but I notice that bunnings has one too:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftmas...outer_p6372144
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28th March 2018, 09:10 PM #18Taking a break
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I would strongly advise against a 6-flute bit unless you can turn the speed waaay down on your router and/or can move VERY fast.
There was a thread here a while ago with someone who couldn't understand why it was burning everything. Basically it's spinning so fast that it's scraping the timber, not cutting it. Scraping generates a lot of heat and heat destroys cutting edges very quickly.
The Onsrud catalogue (AKA the feed-rate bible) recommends a feed of 5-15 m/min at 12k-16k rpm respectively on a 2-flute, 2" wide surface planing bit; a 6-flute will triple that. Note that that bit is in the "Solid surface" section of the catalogue, so it's been made for acrylic benchtop material, rather than timber.
You can use that bit if you really want to, but it won't be long before it's blunt and burning your work.
Try to find a 2-flute planing bit, or even just a wide 2-flute straight bit.
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28th March 2018, 09:28 PM #19GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks. I had no idea.
Ill look through the catalog. I actually have some 2 flute bits which may be suitable, they arent huge though will have to check
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29th March 2018, 02:08 AM #20
Elan has answered re the unsuitability of your suggested surface planer bit.
Your proposed flush trim bit is IMO also not suitable.
You need a proper rebate or dado bit -- flush trim bits are not designed to produce a flat bottom rebate, rebate and dado bits are.
If you can't find a suitable bit with a bottom bearing guide, you can use a guide bush template follower https://www.carbatec.com.au/routing-...brass-bush-set with a non-bearing bit
Tricky bit when using guide bushings is getting the off set between the guide collar and the cutter right.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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29th March 2018, 02:14 AM #21
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29th March 2018, 02:47 AM #22GOLD MEMBER
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Have you considered making a frame around the 2 pieces to be side by side, and using dyed epoxy resin? could save you a lot of trouble.........
This is my dining table, and you can see the epoxy is still very effective........nah, just kidding, its on my ta do list, as opposed to the ta dah list, you know the one you wave goodbye to cos no time to do it all.
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29th March 2018, 07:46 AM #23Taking a break
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29th March 2018, 12:13 PM #24GOLD MEMBER
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29th March 2018, 12:18 PM #25Taking a break
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That bit should work fine. Also not really expensive for a bit that size
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29th March 2018, 12:30 PM #26GOLD MEMBER
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There is also carbitool T1432 - 32mm diameter for $42
CMT equiv is this which seems cheaper.
https://www.carbatec.com.au/31-7d-x-...-bit-1-2-shaft
So I read mixed responses regarding CMT vs carbitool - what are people's thoughts
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29th March 2018, 12:43 PM #27Taking a break
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Oops, hit like by accident
They are not equivalent. The CMT is 5mm long, the Carbitool is 38mm long, hence the price difference.
For surfacing, the CMT would be better simply because you don't need the length
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29th March 2018, 12:54 PM #28GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks - how about the general quality of the bits, staying sharp, clean cuts - is one brand better than other?
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29th March 2018, 12:57 PM #29Taking a break
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I've never used CMT, but I know Carbitool are excellent and they're made in Melbourne so you get to support Aussie business
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29th March 2018, 03:01 PM #30
Talk to Your Glazier
This is crucial.
Qwertyu, I suggest that you make a female template and then go and talk to your glazier. He will advise you on the types of glass and costs, the risks of breakage in cutting and will recommend quite gentle curves. These risks will be factored into his quote and you might be horrified. Then get the glass cut and edge polished.
Cut glass will always be a little different from the template. Then, either adjust the template or make a new one - probably the latter.
Then proceed as advised.
Whatever you do, do not cut the rebate until you have the glass cut. It will not fit.
This is one of those projects that looks simple but is actually quite advanced!
Cheers
Graeme
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