Thread: Framing for relining with tongue and groove

NN , just out of curiosity , what way are you intending to orientate the T&G ? Horizontally or vertically ?
I notice that you spoke of nailing them to the dwangs and not to the studs , so is it vertically .

Jock

Jock, I want the t@g to run vertically.

Ok .

Hi Ning Nong,
I can come and impart my knowledge if you wish.
Cheers
conwood

You need to take your brain back a hundred years, to the time before plasterboard existed...

If you look carefully at your internal walls upstairs, you'll probably work out eventually..... they don't have frames!

VJ is self supporting, unlike plasterboard, so there is no need for framing. Often the outside walls are double skinned and have vertical timbers with a few noggins, for structural reasons, but all the internal walls are generally nailed top and bottom, with a horizontal bar or two, usually inside the bedrooms so that the living areas have clear walls, and picture rails.

Maybe if your existing framework has top and bottom plates, you can nail to that and then fix to uprights wherever they are available.

Originally Posted by rhancock

You need to take your brain back a hundred years, to the time before plasterboard existed...

If you look carefully at your internal walls upstairs, you'll probably work out eventually..... they don't have frames!

VJ is self supporting, unlike plasterboard, so there is no need for framing. Often the outside walls are double skinned and have vertical timbers with a few noggins, for structural reasons, but all the internal walls are generally nailed top and bottom, with a horizontal bar or two, usually inside the bedrooms so that the living areas have clear walls, and picture rails.

Maybe if your existing framework has top and bottom plates, you can nail to that and then fix to uprights wherever they are available.

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He will also need to keep in mind that the Vj used then was about 1" think, not like the thin stuff you buy now.

Colin.

Originally Posted by chippy 71

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He will also need to keep in mind that the Vj used then was about 1" think, not like the thin stuff you buy now.

Colin.

If thats the case , it might be better to leave the plasterboard on and glue and nail the T&G on over top of it .

Originally Posted by Manuka Jock

If thats the case , it might be better to leave the plasterboard on and glue and nail the T&G on over top of it .

Check out the height of the walls and the length of the T&G lining boards that are available on the market.
You may find that you will have to join the lining boards in length, this may dictate the provision of extra noggins to match the joints. You would also need to check the walls for straightness ( horiziontally in length) over a number of location over the height of the wall. You may find that the vertical studs have bowed and or twisted over the past life of the building particular if they had used green timber in the original construction.
Regards
Mac

Modern fj VJ comes in lengths up to 6.6m so there is no need to end join panelling. See Finlaysons at East Brisbane, they have vj in stock to match old thickness vj. For 3m ceilings you only need top and bottom rail and a belt rail that doesn't need to be exactly in the middle. One secret nail through the tongue on each rail is all that's needed.

Cheers
Michael

Originally Posted by mic-d

Modern fj VJ comes in lengths up to 6.6m so there is no need to end join panelling. See Finlaysons at East Brisbane, they have vj in stock to match old thickness vj. For 3m ceilings you only need top and bottom rail and a belt rail that doesn't need to be exactly in the middle. One secret nail through the tongue on each rail is all that's needed.

Cheers
Michael

That is interesting, I was down near there today, if I had known they stock the old thickness VJ I would have called in and had a look.
I have to measure up a job tomorrow which needs the thick VJ boarding so I will call in and see what Finlaysons have.
Thanks for the headsup Michael.

Colin.

Hi Colin, I do hope I haven't given you a bum steer, Finlayson has material 21mm thick, which seems to be about the most common of the older material that I have come across. Compare for Bretts at Windsor which only stock 19mm.
Finlayson's - Products - Mouldings - page 13 of pdf link there.

Cheers
Michael

Originally Posted by mic-d

Hi Colin, I do hope I haven't given you a bum steer, Finlayson has material 21mm thick, which seems to be about the most common of the older material that I have come across. Compare for Bretts at Windsor which only stock 19mm.
Finlayson's - Products - Mouldings - page 13 of pdf link there.

Cheers
Michael

No worries Michael, I have to talk to the client tomorrow morning to see what they actually want. The house is an old Queenslander and I have to extend a section of it and the owner wants to preserve the look in the extension.
I will have to cheat a little in that I will put in a stud wall and cover that on the outside with T&J to look like the existing rather than do it in the old Queenlander style with the bottom and top plate and the mid rail on the outside.
I will drop in to Finlayson's tomorrow morning after I see the client.

Colin.

Old Queenslanders aren't the most stable of structures so be prepared to put up with a fair bit seasonal movement whatever method you use.

Thanks very much for all the information, much appreciated.

The framing has been sorted out.

I am now moving to the position of getting myself a nail gun, some nails and the T&G boards to start relining.

I have a couple of questions and would appreciate any guidance that can be given.

I am very hesitant about secret nailing the boards. I have never used a nail gun before and I can see myself destroying a lot of good (and expensive) wood, trying to secret nail it. Is it difficult to secret nail the T&G boards or is it within the capabilities of your average weekend warrior?

Next issue is what nails to go for. I am a bit confused with the myriad of nails that are out there. Is there somewhere that you go to work out what nails to use, or is all just experience. I had a look at the ESR-1539 and there is a bit too much info there for a non-carpenter to understand.

If I am face nailing 19-21 mm boards into pine framing, what length, type and diameter nails should I go with?

If I am secret nailing the same sort of boards, what sort of nails should I go for.

The next and final issue is what sort of nail gun should I be going for. I presume most blokes use an air powered one that they hook up to a compressor. I have been reading up and it seems that a coil nail gun is the most versatile for the sort of work I will be doing?

Thanks very much in advance for any help that can be offered.