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14th October 2010, 11:20 AM #1New Member
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Framing for relining with tongue and groove
I am in Brisbane and have one of those raised Queenslanders where the previous owner had the thing raised about 20 years ago, appears to have had the major structural work done by people that knew what they were doing and then went about making a mess of the fit out. In particular, the downstairs was sheeted with plaster board that doesn't suit the house and looks awful as a result of various cracks that have developed here there and everywhere as a result of it not being jointed properly.
I will have to reline the walls downstairs. I'd like to reline the walls with tongue and groove to match what it looks like upstairs. I do understand that this will be a lot more expensive but I intend on living there for quite some time and would like it all done right. I also do not want to replace the plasterboard with the panels that look like tongue and groove.
Can anyone tell me where I go to get some information on how to reline with tongue and groove. In particular, the wall framing that is presently there is the standard framing for plaster board. I am wondering if there is a need to modify that framing in order to properly install the t&g. I want to avoid putting batons onto the framing studs to take the t&g as I don't want to make the walls any deeper if I don't have to, it will make it a drama with the windows/doors and so on. The only thing I can think of is nailing the t&g to the nogging but my mind says that there may be some real potential for movement if I do that. Another thought was to check the studs out and put batons in that way. Checking studs out doesn't seem like the brightest of ideas though in terms of structural strength of the building. Maybe it just has to be batons screwed to the studs to nail on to?
Thanks in advance.
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14th October 2010 11:20 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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14th October 2010, 11:39 AM #2Banned
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NN , just out of curiosity , what way are you intending to orientate the T&G ? Horizontally or vertically ?
I notice that you spoke of nailing them to the dwangs and not to the studs , so is it vertically .
Jock
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14th October 2010, 12:04 PM #3New Member
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Jock, I want the t@g to run vertically.
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14th October 2010, 12:09 PM #4Banned
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Ok .
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27th October 2010, 04:21 PM #5Senior Member
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Hi Ning Nong,
I can come and impart my knowledge if you wish.
Cheers
conwood
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27th October 2010, 10:34 PM #6
You need to take your brain back a hundred years, to the time before plasterboard existed...
If you look carefully at your internal walls upstairs, you'll probably work out eventually..... they don't have frames!
VJ is self supporting, unlike plasterboard, so there is no need for framing. Often the outside walls are double skinned and have vertical timbers with a few noggins, for structural reasons, but all the internal walls are generally nailed top and bottom, with a horizontal bar or two, usually inside the bedrooms so that the living areas have clear walls, and picture rails.
Maybe if your existing framework has top and bottom plates, you can nail to that and then fix to uprights wherever they are available.Cheers, Richard
"... work to a standard rather than a deadline ..." Ticky, forum member.
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27th October 2010, 11:17 PM #7Senior Member
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27th October 2010, 11:48 PM #8Banned
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28th October 2010, 12:32 AM #9Senior Member
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Check out the height of the walls and the length of the T&G lining boards that are available on the market.
You may find that you will have to join the lining boards in length, this may dictate the provision of extra noggins to match the joints. You would also need to check the walls for straightness ( horiziontally in length) over a number of location over the height of the wall. You may find that the vertical studs have bowed and or twisted over the past life of the building particular if they had used green timber in the original construction.
Regards
Mac
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28th October 2010, 07:46 AM #10
Modern fj VJ comes in lengths up to 6.6m so there is no need to end join panelling. See Finlaysons at East Brisbane, they have vj in stock to match old thickness vj. For 3m ceilings you only need top and bottom rail and a belt rail that doesn't need to be exactly in the middle. One secret nail through the tongue on each rail is all that's needed.
Cheers
Michael
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28th October 2010, 06:44 PM #11Senior Member
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That is interesting, I was down near there today, if I had known they stock the old thickness VJ I would have called in and had a look.
I have to measure up a job tomorrow which needs the thick VJ boarding so I will call in and see what Finlaysons have.
Thanks for the headsup Michael.
Colin.
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28th October 2010, 07:48 PM #12
Hi Colin, I do hope I haven't given you a bum steer, Finlayson has material 21mm thick, which seems to be about the most common of the older material that I have come across. Compare for Bretts at Windsor which only stock 19mm.
Finlayson's - Products - Mouldings - page 13 of pdf link there.
Cheers
Michael
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28th October 2010, 09:06 PM #13Senior Member
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No worries Michael, I have to talk to the client tomorrow morning to see what they actually want. The house is an old Queenslander and I have to extend a section of it and the owner wants to preserve the look in the extension.
I will have to cheat a little in that I will put in a stud wall and cover that on the outside with T&J to look like the existing rather than do it in the old Queenlander style with the bottom and top plate and the mid rail on the outside.
I will drop in to Finlayson's tomorrow morning after I see the client.
Colin.
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29th October 2010, 02:25 PM #14sawduster
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Old Queenslanders aren't the most stable of structures so be prepared to put up with a fair bit seasonal movement whatever method you use.
I make sawdust with powertools.
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29th April 2011, 04:43 PM #15New Member
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Thanks very much for all the information, much appreciated.
The framing has been sorted out.
I am now moving to the position of getting myself a nail gun, some nails and the T&G boards to start relining.
I have a couple of questions and would appreciate any guidance that can be given.
I am very hesitant about secret nailing the boards. I have never used a nail gun before and I can see myself destroying a lot of good (and expensive) wood, trying to secret nail it. Is it difficult to secret nail the T&G boards or is it within the capabilities of your average weekend warrior?
Next issue is what nails to go for. I am a bit confused with the myriad of nails that are out there. Is there somewhere that you go to work out what nails to use, or is all just experience. I had a look at the ESR-1539 and there is a bit too much info there for a non-carpenter to understand.
If I am face nailing 19-21 mm boards into pine framing, what length, type and diameter nails should I go with?
If I am secret nailing the same sort of boards, what sort of nails should I go for.
The next and final issue is what sort of nail gun should I be going for. I presume most blokes use an air powered one that they hook up to a compressor. I have been reading up and it seems that a coil nail gun is the most versatile for the sort of work I will be doing?
Thanks very much in advance for any help that can be offered.
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