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Thread: New Hall Table

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default New Hall Table

    Hi All,

    As I haven't picked up the timber for the dining table yet, but "needed" ( ) a project for the weekend, I decided to make use of some of the Jarrah that I have in stock.

    I decided to make a small hall table. Its dimensions are 900 wide, 800 high and 250 deep.

    The first step was to make a scale drawing (pic 1), then transfer the key elements, full size, to a sheet of MDF (pic 2).

    Pic 3 shows the jointing of one of the boards the "dark" way . With a couple of cut lengths edge glued, I rough shaped the curved front on the bandsaw, and followed this up with some rasp (Nicholson's), then spokeshave (LV) and the plane (LN skew block plane with fence) work - pic 4

    As I noticed that a couple of the Jarrah boards were noticeably darker than the others, I selected one of these to make the breadboard ends for the top. Whilst, perhaps, a little unconventional, I routed a mortice using a slot cutter in both the top and the ends, then made up a set of friction-fit loose tenons. Only the centre one will be glued, the others are just for alignment purposes. See pic 5.

    This is the first time that I've used Jarrah, and contrary to my expectations, it's actually rather nice to work with; much easier to plane and shape than I had initially thought. Must be those wimpy WA types putting on the act

    More follows...

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  3. #2
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    Default Part two

    Here I'm clamping up the breadboard ends (pic 1) and the other two pics show the top after a couple of coats of Danish oil. I thinks that the darker Jarrah looks quite nice against its lighter hued cousin.

    The apron will have a curved front to match curvature of the top, and a curve under as well, but less marked. It is sized such that there will be a 30mm overhang of the top at the front and sides from this apron. As the apron has been laminated up, and to provide a uniform joint-free surface, I've cut a 3mm thick Jarrah veneer and have glued this onto the apron. As the ensemble is currently embedded in a small forest of clamps ( ), pics of this will have to wait.

    The legs will made up of two boards laminated together, and thus will enable me to have a 40 x 40mm top. They will have parallel sided tops to the bottom of the apron, then will taper on their inner faces to 25mm to the bottom of the legs. Each of the four apron sections will be M/T jointed to the legs.

    As my table saw has decided to have a conniption fit (subject of a different post), the construction of these may be delayed

  4. #3
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    Default

    Very nice top Steve. You just can't go wrong with Jarrah. I like it and can't wait to see the rest of it.

    Cheers
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  5. #4
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    Default A bit more progress

    I managed to make a little bit of progress today...

    The top has a curved front edge, and the legs are straight sided on their outside edges, but tapered on the inner ones. However, as an experiment I thought that I make up a laminated arch to sit, apogee-up, between the front, legs so have made up this little "henge" around which I've laminated six x 2.6mm strips of Jarrah. See pic 1 for the mould.

    Pic 2 shows the front and rear apron elements with legs attached. Note that the apron has the same curve as the top.

    Pic 3 shows a detailed view of how the curved front of the apron blends into the flat face of one of the front legs; these are set into rebates and simply epoxied in place.

    Pic 4 just shows an end-on view of the apron.

    I've also made up and fitted the stretchers that feature an underside curve, also as per the top's front edge, and the bottom rails, but these, and the central arch, will be pictured tomorrow - probably.

  6. #5
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    Looking good Steve.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  7. #6
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    Default Finished!

    I managed to finish off the little hall table today.

    Finish is Danish oil, followed, naturally (!) by uBeaut traditional wax.

    Here are some pics.

    Comments, especially on the arched element, welcome! I debated with myself about having a second arch at the rear. This can always be added if I choose to do so, but I don't think it needs it.

    Cheers!

  8. #7
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    Default

    Excelent work Steve The single arch looks teriffic. You dont need one on the back just for the sake of it. I would have loved to have been a fly on the wall as you were debating with your self So who won:confused:

  9. #8
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    Default

    Lovely table!

    Regarding the arch; I think the single arch is fine, but to my eye (and from the photos, which often don't show proportion well) perhaps the arch is too slender when compared to the stretchers? It definitely looks lovely, just an idea.

  10. #9
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    Default

    HI Steve,

    Looks good.

    Did you consider putting the single arch across the rear legs so that it was still a design element but not as prominent?

    Cheers,

    eddie

  11. #10
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    Default

    Thanks mate!

    Who won? I did, of course Agree that the single arch, which has no real purpose other than a statement of form, doesn't need one at the back. Also, the thought of slicing another batch of 1800 x 22 x 2.6mm Jarrah strips wasn't all that appealing

    I am a bit unhappy about a design decision that I made regarding the rear apron: I should have made it shorter so that the side rail could have covered the whole space rather than leaving some end-grain showing. It's worse in the pics than in reality, however.

    I still have a lot to learn

  12. #11
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    Default

    Hi Scissors,

    I did think about making the arch to the same width as the legs (not the stretchers), but thought that this would make it look too heavy - I wanted to achieve a lightness that I thinks the slimmer arch achieves.

    G'day Eddie,

    In my initial thoughts, I was going to have two arches, one to the fore, and one at the rear. I then thought about a single arch mounted centrally (ie equidistant from each leg at the sides), but reconsidered after much contemplation (plus a couple of beers whilst peering at the thing :eek: ), and decided on the front mounted position.

    Actually, the more I look at it, the more I like it...

    Thanks for the thoughts and comments!

  13. #12
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    Default

    nice job Auld, red gum sure comes up a treat with Danish Oil.
    Which danish oil did you use, and what method did you employ to get a nice even finish with the Trad wax? I can now get a pretty good finish with the oil, but I am let down with my waxing application, always comes up either not shiny enough, or patchy..
    I do have a small issue with the apron to leg design, i have attached a little pic to show what I mean, what are your thoughts?
    I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
    Albert Einstein

  14. #13
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    Default

    Hi Martrix,

    Actually it's Jarrah - although this and R/G do look somewhat alike.

    The D/O was Cabot's and the method of applying the uBeaut wax was pretty much per the instructions (!). I did rub down, after the 3rd coat of D/O with a wet 1500 W&D paper, then wipe over with a soft (lint free) cloth).

    I see your point on the leg/apron join, but I was trying to achieve a rather non-traditional look and have the apron "reach around" so to speak. As with the arch, this was a bit of a design experiment. I do appreciate your (and anyone else's) comments) though.

  15. #14
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    Default

    Nice table Steve.
    Breadboard ends with different colours was a nice touch.

    For the small bit I have done (turning pens and small bowls) I find Jarrah's easy to work with and finishes well. Coarse grain can be a pain at times.
    Can tend to go dark with oil but yours came up well.

    I found Cabots DO produces a glossier finish that Rustins.

    Tony

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