Thread: Hall Table WIP

Here's my first attempt at Sketchup - demanding client is impressed, so ok so far.

Where's the draw?


Yes I know don't give the boss any ideas.

Exactly my thoughts, and there isn't enough timber, but mainly, I wanted to keep it simple so it can actually get finished!

Hey mate,

Check out this thread on how to arrange buttons (Post 8 has a good diagram)

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f187/h...ble-top-87924/

Andy

Thanks, Andy, that's just what I need.

I think I've done all my thinking now, so my next step is to draw up my cutting list. There isn't any spare timber in this, so I have to get it right the first time, so I'll draw up the cutting list, then draw each element (all 5 of them!) including the tenons, so I don't forget to allow for them. If I stuff it up, no one will know except me (cos I won't tell you lot!).

Hoping for some shed time on the weekend to prep the timber, but I'm going to Fernvale to pick up some QLD maple from Tom Moss on Sunday, so may have used up all my passes.

Originally Posted by groeneaj

Hey mate,

Check out this thread on how to arrange buttons (Post 8 has a good diagram)

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f187/h...ble-top-87924/

Andy

Thats a great link

Did a bit more thinking about the tenons for the bottom rail. I'm not too worried about the central rail at the top, as the top itself will take some of the stress there. But the bottom worries me, mainly because the side panels are only 30mm thick, so the tenons can only be 20mm by about 120mm long, which doesn't seem much to me.

Anyone got any advice on stubby tenons?

I've got a Fine Woodworking book with some stuff about double tenons, which I could do: there'd be two 6mm tenons, with a 6mm gap each side, and in the middle. But 6mm doesn't sound like a lot in tassie oak...

I really don't want to do through tenons as I think it will ruin the look of the piece.

Edit: More reading: Sam Allen's Wood Joiner's Handbook this time. I was looking into haunches, but it seems that the 4 shouldered tenon will give more mechanical strength as the shoulders take some of the stress, so maybe that'll be enough. I'll have to do divided tenons too if they're going to be 120mm long, as Allen says the width of the tenons should be no more than 5 times the thickness, so mine are 10mm thick, so 50mm max, which leaves a 20mm gap in the middle. This is to allow for seasonal movement.

The extreme answer would be to put two rails in, but I'd rather not.

I really like that design. Looking forward to watching this build.

Had a revelation yesterday while cycling to work. I've been struggling with my practice M&T's. When you watch the videos, like Franz Klaus, and read other people's advice on cutting mortices, they always just mark the sides of the mortice with a knife or awl or chisel, to create a line to work to, and then just start chopping the waste out, and it magically works! That's stumped me, until I realised that on the blocks I've been practicing on, I've been marking out the mortices ACROSS the grain... Did one this morning in 2 minutes along the grain and it worked.

That's why I like cycling to work.

Got some time to work on the hall table this week. Cut the pieces oversized ready for planing up. The top piece is the only one that's seen any work so far. It's looking good, but I can feel the track marks, even though they seem to be invisible. I can get them out with the scaper, but that could be a lot of burnt fingers if I have to scape every face that much, so I think I should go back and check the edge and the camber on the Low angle jack I used.

Originally Posted by rhancock

so I think I should go back and check the edge and the camber on the Low angle jack I used.

How come you are not using a smoothing plane to finish final passes?

Cos the LAJ is the best set up plane I've got, and with a 38 degree bevel it does a good job. There's quite a bit of discussion here: Veritas Low Angle Jack - What doesn't it do?

Here are my 'plans'. I tend not to refer to them much in the workshop, but I do consult them when I'm planning the next stage of work, to make sure I'm not missing a step. For a relatively simple project like this, the dimensions are easy enough to remember, and I do use a story stick as a reference in the workshop. I'm sure when I'm doing more complex projects the notes will be consulted more.

What about blind dovetail joints instead of mortise and tenons
with the bottom rail down level with the floor
It's also another way to fit the top to the sides