Thread: Hardwood Dovetails

If your sawing skills are up to it, perhaps after transferring the tails to the pin board, all you need to is saw on the line, rather than saw on the waste side and pare for fit.

Cutting TO the line is the art. David Barrons magnetic doodad is clever (I'd say this is what you mention) David Barron Magnetic Dovetail Saw Guide

There are two videos on YouTube showing an example of use. They certainly make it look easy

Edit: the videos recommend the Gyokucho 372 Japanese saw. It's a very nice saw which makes exceptional cuts (I've many!).

Please do post pictures of your work.

I can tell you what I was doing wrong that helped me solve the problem you're having.

After I cut my tails first, I then scribe them onto the pin board and cut the pins. I was holding the marking knife at about a 30 degree angle when I was scribing so that the tip was very very slightly undercutting the tail. This was resulting in the fit being too tight.

So when I mark now, I always make sure to use a single bevel marking knife with the flat side against the tail and dead vertical. I'm not saying I cut perfect dovetails every time, but more often than not I have a satisfactory fit, and that was the last somewhat significant technique change that got me there.

Cheers,
Luke

I would also be wary of using files. It's easier than you think to get a rounded edge that will kill your crisp fit. Consider using graphite (pencil lead) to mark the leading edges of the tails when you test fit. That way, if it's too tight, there will be fairly obvious points at which it is rubbing more than others.

Cheers,
Luke

Yeah Dave Barrons guide is the one Ive seen. You're dead on woodpixel its sawing to the line that's the real art, clearly I'm off the mark. My usual process is tails first, then lay the tail board onto the pin board in my leg vice, flush the ends up, apply some firm pressure, then knife the tails onto the end grain. Once I have the tails knifed onto the end grain I grab the square and knife the rest square, following this I create a knife wall to my line and remove enough to start sawing. I've been tempted to remove the knife wall step and start sawing on the knife line but I'm pretty sure this will throw me out the other way and leave me with a loose fit. Ill grab some photos in the morning of some dovetails I have in the shop, mainly in my tool chest, which where I worked out my process. I'm using a Gykucho Dozuki, however its not a 372, ill have a look in the morning at the model.

Yeah the file lead me astray this morning, I filed a tail out of square and spent the next half hour debating whether to start again.

Your process looks OK.

Luke is dead on, a parallel/flat/upright marking knife is good. I use a pointy scalpel from Eckersleys. I actually like to use pine, so the grain always pulls a knife off to go with the grain, the scalpel just cuts a nice crisp line.

Barrons guides certainly do look nice. Some could be made with some hardwood and rare earth magnets. It would certainly get you over the lump, for getting the saw technique right is an art.

When my dovies are tight, I just use thin CA to glue it all together. Preclamp, wick glue down all the gaps and a blat of accelerator and you are done. Unclamp and finish. Takes 3 minutes.

No cleanup either

edit: btw, my advice is just my own experience (therefore nothing special). I love dovetails simply because they are hard. Especially making monster ones for my workshop cabinets.

One does not need a jig to saw to the lines. Several years ago I developed a technique for transferring tails to pins using blue tape. This makes it really easy to see the lines, and saw to them. Try it ...

Half-blind dovetails: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...hBlueTape.html

Through dovetails: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...ovetails3.html



No jigs, just a basic Western dovetail saw.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks derek, the tape idea might be worth a shot as it increases the contrast. Think ill give it a go in a few hours.

The tape idea is outstanding.

Well, have just been downstairs for a few hours and the tape has certainly improved my results! Ill post the pictures of the spotted gum up later this week when I've finished it, here's a few DT pics from my tool chest that is taking me forever to finish, its a mix of radiata and oak, nothing to fancy, more of a function vs finish project. Sorry for the quality my phone camera isn't great.

image.jpgimage.jpg

Well I feel like I was ok on dovetails before, but if the tape trick helped you get that fit then I guess it's worth looking into...

Nice work.

Right well after a days thought on the matter,

I'm wrapped with the blue tape idea, I think it works well on the hardwood as you don't have to push as hard to knife the line into the end grain. It also gives good contrast for your eye to follow when cutting to the line, so thanks a heap for that tip Derek!!! The photos I put up earlier were from my old method which I am able to get nice tight fitting joins with, but my joins were a lot sloppier with the spotted gum which had me confused until using the magic blue tape method!

Hi Derek,

What a great set of instructions. Thanks.