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  1. #31
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    They are done with webbing over the frame , not a flexible type usually . It gets tacked on the under side and woven under and over to the other side with roughly a two or three finger gap between each length. No , backsides don't feel them really , it's one of the trade standard ways of upholstering a seat. I'm no upholsterer at all but I've worked on plenty of them, repairing the woodwork or building them . Ill see what I have to take a photo of. Rob

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  3. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by auscab View Post
    They are done with webbing over the frame , not a flexible type usually . It gets tacked on the under side and woven under and over to the other side with roughly a two or three finger gap between each length. No , backsides don't feel them really , it's one of the trade standard ways of upholstering a seat. I'm no upholsterer at all but I've worked on plenty of them, repairing the woodwork or building them . Ill see what I have to take a photo of. Rob
    Rob,

    Had another look at your first sketch ... and woke up a little. It now makes more sense.

    I'm guessing you are saying that if the padding/foam is good enough and deep enough, we won't feel those frames. Also, if the padding/foam is good enough, I don't need elastic or zig zag springs; that standard webbing will do the job. Am I reading this correctly?

    The current plan is to have the foam/padding 30-40 mm higher than the rails. Does that sound OK?

    Thanks,

    John

  4. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    Normally a chair's back seat rail (frame member) is shorter than the front one
    Normally the back of a chair seat is lower than the front
    This leads to the need to cut angled tenons (in two planes) on the side rails -- don't try to avoid this "complication" as it adds to the look and comfort of a chair.
    Ian,

    Have been playing with the idea of angling the seat back by angling the frame and the attached upholstery, as in the next pic. That way I would only need to narrow the rear rail and the tenons for the side rails would only be angled on one plane. Only thinking of narrowing the rear rail by about 40 mm at this stage.

    Angled Upholstery.jpg

    I have at least one more job to do before starting on these chairs, so am still very much in the design phase.

    Cheerio!

    John

  5. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Samuel View Post
    Rob,

    Had another look at your first sketch ... and woke up a little. It now makes more sense.

    I'm guessing you are saying that if the padding/foam is good enough and deep enough, we won't feel those frames. Also, if the padding/foam is good enough, I don't need elastic or zig zag springs; that standard webbing will do the job. Am I reading this correctly?

    The current plan is to have the foam/padding 30-40 mm higher than the rails. Does that sound OK?

    Thanks,

    John
    Yes and Yes

    One small thing I read that Ian said , that I don't agree with is " the back of a seat being lower than the front". and having tenons angled two ways to get it , if your back is narrower as well that is . Hey it may be a nice feel, even better possibly . it's not the norm or the traditional chair construction way though from what I know of. Im talking dinning chairs.

    Good traditional design starts on a plane , parallel with the floor , on a plan looking down at the seat rails .The front is wider than the back . flipping the chair idea up to look at the front of it , the front legs are square to the rail at the front. The back legs are angled , they are closer together at the bottom than the top. when you view a chair that is made that way the back of the seat looks lower and sometimes it may be . sometimes the back legs have had a bit trimmed of the bottom as well . but put a square on the seat rail on the side and pretty much all dinning chairs , old ones, are square at that point, the front side ones as well.

    The plane parallel to the floor with the rails drawn in and the leg section at that point drawn in is the start of being able to build any chair you have ever seen, mostly. The design taken from that point on works for traditional chair designs.

    Rob

  6. #35
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    Here is some seats.
    The webbing is on a Victorian Upholstered chair , not a drop in . Corner blocks were a later way of strengthening, roughly from 1900 on . this has fitted braces that are housed in to the rail from the top down .

    A drop in .
    And pictures of what they sit on. The bottom left has rebates on three sides with a nailed on piece in the back .
    The other one has had three sticks nailed in and lost the back one . Both 18th century.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #36
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    Thanks to everyone for your input.

    I am going to take a break from the chair design for a week or so while a kitchen cabinet is made for a mate. Right now messing around with shaping the rails so they are curved when looking at them in plan view, but just might be stretching past my existing skill set.

    Have fun!

    John

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