Thread: Help with compound angles

thanks

Originally Posted by DaveTTC

Rwbuild is a huge proponent of sikaflex. He likes to coat end grain with it before he puts misters together etc.

As an apprentice with one builder we always had primer on board and would paint miters before they went up.


Dave TTC
The Turning Cowboy

Turning Wood Into Art

I second that I’ve done quite a few corner repairs on facia boards.
For work,
If the carpenter, builder had used a no more gaps silaflex liquid nails in the Mitre.
I would say only half would Rott out.


Cheers Matt

just to enable this thread to help someone else maybe.... i did a mock up of the same corner that i took a photo of before you can see why the flashing is the shape it is.......

20181007_103906744_iOS.jpg

Originally Posted by Simplicity

I second that I’ve done quite a few corner repairs on facia boards.
For work,
If the carpenter, builder had used a no more gaps silaflex liquid nails in the Mitre.
I would say only half would Rott out.


Cheers Matt

Out of the 3 you mention, no more gap and liquid nails all go brittle and no longer flex as well as they eventually detach from the timber itself. Sikaflex is the only one that does not degrade as the years go by.

wonder if you guys can offer some advise here

so ive replaced the fascia all good - but the flashing that covers the top edge of the fascia has been previously secured to the fascia through the top edge with a nail and covered with silicon

this sort of feels wrong as that creates a possible entry hole for water

how would you normally secure the flashing?

Originally Posted by rwbuild

Sikaflex is the only one that does not degrade as the years go by.

Originally Posted by milesy

so ive replaced the fascia all good - but the flashing that covers the top edge of the fascia has been previously secured to the fascia through the top edge with a nail and covered with silicon

this sort of feels wrong as that creates a possible entry hole for water

Oddly enough, a bead of Sikaflex along the top edge also works nicely as an adhesive... provided you can ensure the flashing will sit flat in place while it cures enough to bind. ie. Not a practical alternative in windy areas.

Just out of curiosity, what profile flashing are you using? Some flashings have a lip which wraps over the fascia and can be tacked through the front... I've always custom ordered mine to suit the job at hand. (Many Reece's can bend flashings to spec if you give 'em enough notice.)

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Oddly enough, a bead of Sikaflex along the top edge also works nicely as an adhesive... provided you can ensure the flashing will sit flat in place while it cures enough to bind. ie. Not a practical alternative in windy areas.

Just out of curiosity, what profile flashing are you using? Some flashings have a lip which wraps over the fascia and can be tacked through the front... I've always custom ordered mine to suit the job at hand. (Many Reece's can bend flashings to spec if you give 'em enough notice.)

thats exactly what this is but it has been previously secured through the top edge

and its interesting at this end (see the photo) they have done exactly as you suggested - but the other end where there was enough room to come from the top they secured vertically

i guess i do as per the photo on the sections down further and seal the old holes with sikaflex??

Not sure what happened to the reply I made earlier

Roofing screw with a rubber washer is most common.

If you are screwing thru the roof profile beneath the flashing line your screw up with a high point on the roofing

DaveTTC
The Turning Cowboy
Turning Wood Into Art

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Oddly enough, a bead of Sikaflex along the top edge also works nicely as an adhesive... provided you can ensure the flashing will sit flat in place while it cures enough to bind. ie. Not a practical alternative in windy areas.

Just out of curiosity, what profile flashing are you using? Some flashings have a lip which wraps over the fascia and can be tacked through the front... I've always custom ordered mine to suit the job at hand. (Many Reece's can bend flashings to spec if you give 'em enough notice.)

think these photos show exactly what my fear is on the way the flashing has been secured

20181103_074306781_iOS.jpg20181103_074309250_iOS.jpg

Is it a tile roof?

I don't normally see metal flashing with tiles like that

DaveTTC
The Turning Cowboy
Turning Wood Into Art

Originally Posted by DaveTTC

Is it a tile roof?

I don't normally are metal flashing with tiles like that

DaveTTC
The Turning Cowboy
Turning Wood Into Art

yes its a tile roof

how would you normally do it

So a barge tile something like this



Or the tiles over hang the barge board and filled with mortar something like this



Or instead of mortar like this one the tiles have a scribing fillet (timber board cut to fit under the tile and nailed to the barge board) under them




Dave TTC
The Turning Cowboy

Turning Wood Into Art

Originally Posted by DaveTTC

Or the tiles over hang the barge board and filled with mortar something like this

That 2nd pic quite nicely shows one of the disadvantages of pointing with mortar this way... it lifts from the timber introducing a gap water can sit in, rotting the top of the timber.

If you look at some of the older heritage buildings, copper, lead or even [gasp] galv iron was used as flashing/capping over the timbers, before the tiles were laid. Doesn't stop the mortar from lifting but does enhance the timbers' lifetime significantly.

Of course, houses aren't built to last anywhere near as long nowadays. (Then again, many of the lesser quality older buildings didn't last as long as a modern one will either! )