Thread: Need help with Rabbetting

Why is the router table not working?

Need help with Rabbetting

1. Start
2. Buy a good shotgun
3. Load shotgun
4. Shoot Rabbet with shotgun
5. If Hit Rabbet GOTO End
6. Else GOTO 3
5. End

Eddie, a rabbet is a NZ rabbit, this guy is in the States

There is no reason why a router or saw with dado blade should not do the job. What size router bit are you using and are you trying to cut with one pass.

Are you trying to feed to quickly?

Originally Posted by jamestown

Hello,
. . . I have also tried my table saw with both dado and regular blades, but it burns up the blades too quickly.

What sort of "regular blade" are you using. Are you perhaps trying to rip with a fine toothed blade?

I'm with Eddie

Using a 40 tooth saw blade and yes I am trying to make it in one cut.
I had someone suggest a rabbeting jointer.
Do you think that would work in about 3 to 4 passes?
Thanks

with any hobbiest-level technology! How long is the piece of wood? On my router table (3hp under the hood), I might try taking 1/8" at a time at that width, but more likely 1/16".

I'm with griffithpark, why do you need a one pass operation. Its a great way to kill your tools, place yourself in more danger and untimately end up with a very ordinary job.
If using several passes doesn't work, try using ferrets. They're used often with good results in rabbetting

I was using a 1 1/2 HP table saw. I also have available to me a 3 HP (max developed) table saw. What does the Max developed mean and would it be that much better. Also how many passes would you suggest to cut the rabbet,
Thanks,
James

James,

Several ways to do this. On a table saw, set the fence so the cut is the max width of the rebate. Set the blade to the depth of the cut. Use your miter gauge to keep the workpiece square. Make one cut at full width, move the workpiece 1/8" or so, make another pass, etc. Finish up by moving the workpiece laterally along the miter gauge so you're pushing it into the blade. This will clean up the high spots.

the table saw technique will leave the rebate slightly rough, so if that's a problem use a rebate plane to smooth it.

On a router table, use a 3/4" straight bit (or large spiral upcut if you have it). Set the fence on the table to the maximum width of the rebate, and the height of the bit to the max depth. Clamp two thin (1/4") bits of mdf to the fence (spacers), with a small cutout for the bit. (You can keep these spacers for future use, they come in handy). Make one run with both spacers on, remove one and make another cut, make the final cut with no spacers.

Using a router table will produce a smoother rebate.

Hope this helps.

Tex

Originally Posted by Flowboy

I'm with griffithpark, why do you need a one pass operation. Its a great way to kill your tools, place yourself in more danger and untimately end up with a very ordinary job.
If using several passes doesn't work, try using ferrets. They're used often with good results in rabbetting

Ferrets can be good, but you still need the shotgun to encourage the ferrets back out of the burrow.

Eddie, is that where the expression "get the lead out" comes from?

The table saw is working better with me making 3 passes rather than 1 .
Thanks everyone for the help,
James