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  1. #1
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    Default Help with wine cabinet build.

    I'm making a wine cabinet out of redgum, and I am worried about wood movement for the partitions that are going inside the cabinet.
    I am after some help on which way to make the partition pieces.

    I was looking at making the partions as in (Option A) but unsure if maybe (Option B) would be better?

    Thanks in advance.
    Regards
    Al .

    You don't know, what you don't know, until you know it.

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  3. #2
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    Hmmm.... more air circulation in B and more work.

    Optin A _ if you join tnarrower pieces to make the partition and make sure to alternate the direction of the end grains that will alleviate some of the movement problems.

  4. #3
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    Option B looks better. Unless the partitions can move relative to the supports they will eventually split, break the glue or pull out screws, especially with redgum. Otherwise, I'd be inclined to run the supports in dovetail slots, glued to the partitions only at the front.
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  5. #4
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    Artme and Alex Thank you both for the reply s,
    Regards
    Al .

    You don't know, what you don't know, until you know it.

  6. #5
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    Al B,

    I have a Q / observation about the design, although unrelated to your dilemma:

    If the long supports are at 90 deg then there is the potential for the corner to damage the wine label. Now to me that doesnt affect taste and is a minor consideration, but if you are a purist then you may consider changing it?

    eg
    http://www.australia.bordexwineracks...pexd.asp?id=68

    Nick

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    Quote Originally Posted by nick_b00 View Post
    Al B,

    I have a Q / observation about the design, although unrelated to your dilemma:

    If the long supports are at 90 deg then there is the potential for the corner to damage the wine label. Now to me that doesnt affect taste and is a minor consideration, but if you are a purist then you may consider changing it?

    eg
    Bordex Wine Racks

    Nick
    Hi Nick

    Its not the best of drawings but the edges on the supports will be chamfered.
    Regards
    Al .

    You don't know, what you don't know, until you know it.

  8. #7
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    Option B
    Reality is no background music.
    Cheers John

  9. #8
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    Assuming solid gables and a solid base, then technically either would work as all the grain is running in the same direction. I'd probably go with B anyway, but if I did go with A then I would make the internal gables a few mm narrower than the external gables.

    EDIT: I was thinking carcass but I see what you mean, the cross grain of the bottle supports across the internal gables. This is still doable, it's no different to a drawer runner attached to a solid gable. Only glue at the front and allow the back to float, either with joinery or a screw in a laterally loose clearance hole.

  10. #9
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    Thanks munruben and Scissors for your reply s,
    Looks like I am going to go with Option B, I will screw the supports with out glue to allow for movement.

    Thanks again to all that replied.
    Regards
    Al .

    You don't know, what you don't know, until you know it.

  11. #10
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    Good move, Al. You could use either oversized or elongated screw holes.
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    I like option B.

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