Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    34

    Default Home Office Fit Out WIP - Noobie :D

    G'day All

    This is the first time I'm tackling such a project and would like your input on what you may have done differently or materials you may have opted for.

    The brief was simple, wife wanted us to spend more time together in the same room.
    As we are always working in different rooms on our computers.
    So we decided on converting my man cave to a home office that we can both share
    We settled on some Shaker style cabinetry, floating shelves and taller baseboards

    Progress pics below.

    I used 18mm B grade ply for the carcass and trimmed it out with 19mm pine.
    Holes were filled using plaster type filler instead of wood filler. (Anyone care to elaborate what the pros and cons are between the two?)
    Cos the plaster filler says it can be used on timber...since I had it laying around, I decided to use it.

    This was sanded down to 180 grit and sprayed
    I didn't opt for a toe kick, not sure if I should have or not.

    IMG_3936.JPGIMG_3964.JPG

    Cabinets all done and put into place.
    Had to add some extensions to the side of the cabinets to allow room for Ethernet / Electric plugs
    Holes here drilled near the top side of the cabinets to allow for cable runs.
    Bought some Ikea cable management trays to keep all the cables at bay.
    IMG_3990.jpgIMG_3991.jpg

    Floating Shelves
    I made a ladder type frame out of 70x35 MGP and screwed it into studs on the wall.
    The shelf or sleeve was made out of half inch B grade ply with a 19mm Pine face.
    You can see where I had my guitars hanging previously in the first pic :P
    I originally wanted to hang some strip or down lights under the shelves but didn't want and wires dropping down from the sides.
    Wish I had a sparky friend.. lol

    IMG_4017.jpgIMG_4022.jpg

    I got my hands on some 120x35mm mountain ash for the benchtops
    I don't have a jointer, table saw or hand plane. The boards looked pretty straight and figured if there was any bow, the clamps would pull it straight during glue up.
    Boards were then glued and laminated with 14mm dominos every 6 to 8 inches.
    This was then sanded down to 180 grit and grain filled for a smooth finish, lightly sanded between coats of poly and wet dry sanding towards the end.
    Results after 7 coats of poly.
    I read oil base poly tend to yellow the timber over time....I guess we'll see. For now I'm happy with the finish.

    IMG_4037.jpgIMG_4150.jpg

    Benchtops installed
    IMG_4126.jpgIMG_4152.jpg

    Purchased some soft close drawer slides. These are a pain in the butt as you need to be exact on the drawer widths for it to slide in and out easily.
    I measured sides of the cabinets and they were parallel.
    Anyone know the trick to the trade on constructing drawers that fit these slides perfectly? (what allowance do you normally allow on the widths?)
    I've decided to put the drawer construction on the back burner until the new table saw arrives :P

    IMG_4332.JPG

    I moved onto the base board and what a pain that is trying to pull up base boards. lol
    I bought one of these from Bunnies and it did more damage to the plaster then what its worth.
    image1.jpg

    After doing some googling I found this tool. Has a wider surface area and doesn't damage the plaster when prying .
    Has a lip on the inner face, so as you hammer down on the baseboard it pulls it away from the plaster.

    image2.jpgimage3.jpg

    The original base boards were 67mm I think, and they sit a good 20mm below the carpet/tile. So only 47mm was exposed.
    Should base boards be installed on top of carpet / tiles....or should it be installed down to the concrete slab?
    I notice my builder opted for the second option and subsequently the carpet and tiles were butt up against the base boards and any gaps were filled with filler... :/

    I opted for 140mm baseboards as wife likes the look better...it also means I gotta spend the rest of the house with the same trim. (this im dreading lol)

    So as it stands, it looks like this..... more progress pics to come... :P Ordered a Table Saw, anxiously waiting for it's arrival

    IMG_4365.jpg

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    se Melbourne
    Age
    62
    Posts
    2,567

    Default

    Base boards - I would call it skirting boards.
    When removing only leaver where there is a stud otherwise you put a hole in the plaster as you have found. The skirting normally goes down to the floorboards and the carpet butts up to it.

    Looking good.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    34

    Default

    Thanks for the tip

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    34

    Default

    Finally completed


    1.jpg

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    34

    Default

    G'day Folks

    Need some advice on something.

    One of my neighbors really likes my handy work and have ask if I can build the same for them.

    Question is, I'm not really sure how to go about pricing it.

    Brief:

    4 set of 450mm wide drawers (shaker Style)
    600mm wide Ash table tops at 2.4m & 2.6m

    I've got a fair idea how much the materials would cost.
    But not sure what rate to charge for labour...

    ideas?

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    34
    Posts
    6,127

    Default

    Never work for friends and family. It's not worth the hassle.

    What do you value your time at? Are you doing it as a favour or to make money?

    We quote jobs at work at $90/hr to cover wages, rent, power, insurance, machine leases, etc

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    se Melbourne
    Age
    62
    Posts
    2,567

    Default

    How much do you like your neighbour?

    When pricing materials always allow a bit extra for things like errors, alterations, additions and just getting it to the work site.

    As for labour, what is your time worth? If you a real close to your neighbour and they are very flexible with site access and happy to assist you could do for mates rates. If you need to wait for them to be home and you are doing everything the rate will be a lot more as it cuts into your family time.

    Just remember that no two jobs are exactly the same. Every house will have differences.

Similar Threads

  1. Acacia and Victorian Ash Home Office Desk
    By GarciaJ in forum FURNITURE, JOINERY, CABINETMAKING - formerly BIG STUFF
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 26th January 2017, 10:44 PM
  2. Hi, Hello! Noobie reporting in
    By Widget1983 in forum G'day mate - THE WELCOME WAGON -Introduce yourself
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 23rd August 2016, 08:45 AM
  3. Home office - what timber type
    By Haff in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 29th July 2008, 07:19 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •