26th Jul 2009, 12:58 PM #1
How do you get Super Glue of your car paintwork?
Wife is a teacher and some ######## put super glue on the bonnet of the new car. Any suggestions?The world is a comedy to those that think, a tragedy to those that feel.
26th Jul 2009 12:58 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Advertising world
26th Jul 2009, 01:09 PM #2
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Post Thanks / Like
- Blog Entries
acetone works but it will also ruin the paintwork
how bad is it? a photo might help
ie is it a large area or just a quick squirt.
This is hard not being able to see how bad it is but using CA on woodwork and as a filler it comes to mind
if its thick and a small area I suggest use a fine edged scraper but tape the area around it and very fine shave. shave the the offending bit back but not all the way, then use 600 wet & dry or even 1200+ wet of course with soap then a good quality cut and polish.
26th Jul 2009, 03:00 PM #3
I'd try a hairdryer first. The heat may soften it enough to peel away. Or, it may remove enough that a quick wipe of meths may surfice. There is also a superglue remover available at Bunnings, but I am not sure what it would do to paint - try some in a paint area that will not be seen (try thinners next, then lastly acetone).
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, many handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
26th Jul 2009, 04:30 PM #4
Arhh, the youth of today!!I'm not young enough to know it all.
26th Jul 2009, 04:42 PM #5
26th Jul 2009, 04:44 PM #6
26th Jul 2009, 04:50 PM #7
If its a new car I'd be taking it to a car detailer.Cheers, Glen
26th Jul 2009, 04:50 PM #8
26th Jul 2009, 04:58 PM #9
Don't know if it works but makes sense, read it somewhere
Dry ice. Yup, the cold stuff made of CO2.
You'll want to apply the dry ice over the area with the glue (small areas at a time) and metal around it. The differential in the coefficient of expansion (contraction, in this case) will cause the glue and the metal to shink at slightly different rates. Assuming there was any wax on the car at all, the glue should release as it cracks such that you can nick it off with a fingernail. Some of it should come off of its own accord, and with any luck at all, you'll never get to #2. This is a somewhat modified version of the old "dent remover" trick.
As we have NO idea what kind of paint and wax (if any) has been used on this car, the "nail polish remover" / acetone solution could be dicey. One thing for certain, it'll remove every last lick of wax, so you'll need to be prepared to lay on another coat ASAP after removing the glue if this works.
Have a look at the front of the drivers's door frame around the front hinge area (inside where nobody ever really looks). Assuming the insides of the door frame are painted with the same material as the car, take a Q-Tip loaded with the polish remover and rub it fairly vigorously. See if this begins to soften the paint or if color begins to come off on the Q-Tip. This area of the vehicle won't fake you out by dropping a load of oxided paint on the Q-Tip as an area on the exterior of the car might, and has probably never had any wax applied to it, so it makes a fair test. This will give you an idea of how fast you have to work in the event that you attempt to use the nail polish remover on the glued area of the door -- or for that matter, if you want to take that approach at ALL. If the paint so much as softens where you're working in the door frame, you'll want to avoid this technique -- it'll show up big time on that nice, flat door surface.''
26th Jul 2009, 05:08 PM #10
Your next problem is how to avoid it happening again, sorry to be negative.woody U.K.
"Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln
26th Jul 2009, 06:04 PM #11
nail polish/acetone is likely to remove the paint on the car tooRegards, Bob Thomas
26th Jul 2009, 06:06 PM #12
Thanks for all the ideas fellas, shall try a few tomorrow and see how we go. It's only about 20c size but right on the bonnet. Have already tried turps.
I'll let you know how I go
YowieThe world is a comedy to those that think, a tragedy to those that feel.
26th Jul 2009, 06:29 PM #13
26th Jul 2009, 06:39 PM #14
I would try the insurance method myself
I use CA glue and sometimes if I make a mistake I use my debonder .If the CA is well set it takes a few goes,keeping it wet.But I wouldn't take a chance on my new car.Hit the school for it and off to a panelbeater .PM if you need to know where to buy Debonder,but should be available from any ball bearing supplier shop
AVAILABLE SIZES: 2oz pump
DESCRIPTION: Mercury M68DB is a debonder especially formulated for Mercury CA adhesives. It is a clear liquid with a relatively low evaporation rate that attacks and dissolves cured or uncured Instant Superglue (cyanoacrylate).
APPLICATIONS: Can be used to debond misaligned parts or clean up excess adhesive. It also is useful for removing spilled adhesives from work area. Debonds accidentally bonded skin.
USEFUL HINTS/NOTES: Mercury M68DB Debonder works best under repeated applications rather than one excessively large application. Apply debonder, allow it to dissolve hardened superglue and repeat as necessary. Use in an inconspicuous area for testing. May attack certain plastics and remove paint or varnish.
Click here for MSDS
Click Here for Technical Data and use instructionsBack To Car Building & All The Sawdust.
26th Jul 2009, 09:46 PM #15
I've used acetone on my car paint work before with no ill effects. You have to make sure you get it all off quickly though.
By Lignum in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 29Last Post: 16th Jun 2009, 11:51 AM
By colbra in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 12Last Post: 6th Jun 2009, 09:23 AM
By Wood Butcher in forum GLUEReplies: 0Last Post: 13th Jan 2006, 10:05 AM
By Grumpy John in forum GLUEReplies: 15Last Post: 28th Aug 2005, 05:21 PM
By Richard Casey in forum GLUEReplies: 3Last Post: 10th Jul 2004, 09:12 AM