Thread: Hsc major work

A thin sliver of timber, or as you say- a wedge, would be my choice I don't think PVA and sawdust will do a satisfactory job.

Wedge is my vote.

OK - it really depends where the gaps are & what finish you plan to use. I am never a fan of trying to hide mistakes, it usually ends up looking just like a disguised mistake .

If these gaps are on visible areas of your table & you intend to finish with a natural timber look, I would try to turn them into a design element by perhaps carefully widening all teh joints by a set ammount & putting some contasting infil or maybe a beaded fillet or some such. Better to make a feature than try & hide a mistake, if at all possible.

If the gaps are not in a visible area or if yu plan to paint the project, then maybe the glued in wedge would be OK. Don't try & use putty or sawdust & glue. If painting, you could use epoxy, then scrape & sand to level beforehand

A feature strip would have been good but I can't since it is not one continuous joint.
I'll point it out in the picture.

Hmm... are those legs flush with the rails? And have you glued up yet?

You could run a narrow rebate down the legs from top to bottom & glue in a small beading profile that is a mm or so wider than the leg. This would fill the gap without being obviously a patch-up. This will be easier if you have not glued up. If you have it can still be done, and would be easiest with a rail guided saw or router such as Festool.

I have glued already

the legs are not flush with the rails

Ok -so the rebate & beading would work, but yuo would need to be very careful about cutting the rebate.

The other suggestion is to add a simple geometric decorative inlay to the rails. A triangle might work.

Attachment 141933

How would I cut out the inlay. Would I do it with a chisel

If i was to cut a rebate wouldn't that just open the gap and maybe cause the foosball table to be unstable

Originally Posted by turn/around

If i was to cut a rebate wouldn't that just open the gap and maybe cause the foosball table to be unstable

The rebate would only be shallow - maybe 6mm deep so would not affect the structural integrity of the table.

Not to scale

Attachment 141940

Originally Posted by turn/around

How would I cut out the inlay. Would I do it with a chisel

You would need crisp edges, so the outline cut deeply with a marking knife (stanley knife etc would do) and then material removed with a chisel & possible small router plane (could use a samll router, but it is very easy to make a big mistake with power tools) Inlay recess only needs to be shallow - maybe 2mm. You have to get a fairly flat surface on the bottom of the recess to allow the glue to adhere.

Here is a link with some ideas