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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    27,792

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    I've always sharpened my bits by hand from 3mm to 30+ mm, including my bit sets with 0.1mm increments.
    The sharpened tips are far from perfect, and some are indeed a bit ragged but they all typically generate holes less than 1% oversized provided the work is firmly held while drilling and a centre punch is used - yes I use one on wood especially end grain. I also use a short bit to start a long hole to reduce bit wander.

    I just went down to the shed and drilled some test holes in 5mm thick steel with the 3/16" and a 10.5mm bits I recently sharpened.
    The 3/16" (4.76mm) was 4.79mm so 0.6% and the 10.50 mm was 10.58mm so 0.8%

    Lets face it, most DIY levels drills and chucks used in wood working have pretty ordinary run outs anyway, and the holding down of materials tends to be on the sloppy side (compared to MW that is) so using even a brand new bit won't results in an exact size hole. In fact all bits, even new ones, will always produce an oversize hole and that's why reamers were invented. When metal working, to obtained an accurate size hole the exact size bit is never used, instead the hole is made with a 0.1 or 0.2 undersize and then the holes are reamed to spec. On a metal lathe or mill, accurate size holes are bored out, definitely not drilled.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    34
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    6,127

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    That is not my experience at all. It is like all manual tasks, do it often enough and you get good at it. My Brother in Law is a tool maker and I can assure you that he can sharpen a drill as well as a drill doctor because he was trained to do it and has done literally thousands in his career.
    Exactly. Do lots, get good. You can basically go as small as you can see, here's a 1.5mm I sharpened to a brad point for someone on the forum.

    IMAG1485[1].jpg

    This is my preferred setup

    IMAG1487.jpg

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

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    I used to work with a guy who sharpened number drills using a jewellers loupe.
    CHRIS

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    79
    Posts
    601

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    Yes BobL,do a lot and you don’t need a machine,but there must be many like me that do it “now and again “and make a mess by hand so we need a drill doctor or something like that

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,792

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    Quote Originally Posted by nrb View Post
    Yes BobL,do a lot and you don’t need a machine, but there must be many like me that do it “now and again “and make a mess by hand so we need a drill doctor or something like that
    Thing is, I don't sharpen all that often - about one tip a week.

    My experience at the mens shed is that it's more about most people not being prepared to put the time into practicing how to do it and would rather be making sawdust.
    I can understand that but once you learn how to do it, it's like riding a bike.
    I estimate it takes the average person about two hours of practice to become moderately proficient at forming and sharpening bits.
    Some will get there in far less time and some will never get it - they have little alternative other than to buy something like a drill doctor.

    Start with an old ~1/2" drill bit and practice resharpening following the youtube vids.
    A loupe or head magnifier helps.
    Don't expect to get a perfect tip in a couple of minutes you have to do it over and over.
    Don't worry if still you haven't got a perfect tip, once you are close, check if it drills a hole easily and roughly same amount of swarf exits the drill.
    Once you can do that then grind the tip completely flat and practice completely reforming the tip.
    Then you have to practice sharpening and reforming over and over and over.
    Then try the same thing with a 1/4" bit.
    Then if you feel comfortable enough and have good enough eyesight try a 1/8"

    I totally understand that many woodies are not interested and prefer to keep cough up the $200 on a drill doctor and instead go so some woodwork.
    However, I look at it this way, if it only takes 2 hours to learn then I have saved $200 and have one less bit of kit cluttering up my shed.
    My standard rate of woodworking/metalworking/projects/futzing usually works out to about $5/hr, so anyone practicing sharpening for 2 hours instead of buying a drill doctor is doing an activity worth $100/hr.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    507

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    Well I just picked up a Drill Doctor 360X machine from Total Tools. It's on special, $149

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Huon pine fan View Post
    Well I just picked up a Drill Doctor 360X machine from Total Tools. It's on special, $149
    Terrific thanks Huon pine fan. That's about $100 off the normal pretty steep price, so I went online and grabbed one too—they offer free postage too so that was the actual price I paid. Great result from this post, thank you and all others who responded.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    414

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    Quote Originally Posted by Huon pine fan View Post
    Well I just picked up a Drill Doctor 360X machine from Total Tools. It's on special, $149
    Well that was an opportune catalogue promotion, here at the end of the thread. Couldn't have been timed better. So I ordered one too (I did read BobL's post but yeah). Actually, it was $50 off, not $100 as someone thought. Good enough. Offer ends today (Sunday 28) though.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Sunbury, Vic
    Age
    84
    Posts
    2,718

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    For anyone else, Hare and Forbes have a special on a drill sharpener in their current three day sale.. $79 but it may not be the same quality as Drill Doctor
    Tom

    "It's good enough" is low aim

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Townsville. Tropical Nth Qld.
    Posts
    1,244

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    Quote Originally Posted by tasbloke View Post
    Terrific thanks Huon pine fan. That's about $100 off the normal pretty steep price, so I went online and grabbed one too—they offer free postage too so that was the actual price I paid. Great result from this post, thank you and all others who responded.
    You will not be disappointed with it especially the split point function. Yes I was trained and can do them by hand, but this cuts the inaccuracies.
    Rgds,
    Crocy.

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    4,470

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    I was led to believe that the 360x, like the 350x, can’t sharpen split points. Can someone with a 360 let us know if it can or can’t please?

  13. #27
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    507

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    According to the user guide "with the standard diamond sharpening wheel it will sharpen high-speed steel, cobalt, TiN-coated, carbide and masonry drill bits". So I would say no to split points

  14. #28
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    melb
    Posts
    1,125

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    Is this how you guys do it - in terms of technique?
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcwOBL0tTbc

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    34
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    6,127

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    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    Is this how you guys do it - in terms of technique?
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcwOBL0tTbc
    Not me. I use a 1/4" wide wheel that's been dressed at an angle, rather than square, instead of trying to roll around a wider, square dressed wheel. Set the rest for your clearance angle behind the cutting edge and just hold the bit in line with the wheel.

    See my above post with the pic of my setup.

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

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    Quote Originally Posted by nrb View Post
    Yes BobL,do a lot and you don’t need a machine,but there must be many like me that do it “now and again “and make a mess by hand so we need a drill doctor or something like that
    You can't do something that you have never been taught, find someone who knows what they are doing. I snagged a tech teacher who showed me but if you find a machinist willing to accept money I am sure he would show you. Also buy some of the cheapest nastiest drills you can find and practise on them. I bet if you went over to the metal forum you could find someone in Melbourne to teach you. I bought a Drill Doctor many years ago and promptly sold it, bloody horrible little thing.
    CHRIS

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