Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 7 of 7
-
26th May 2004, 06:17 PM #121 with 26 years experience
- Join Date
- May 2004
- Location
- Sunshine Coast Queensland
- Age
- 53
- Posts
- 1,407
Idea for a table - Comments Please
Hei Guys,
I'm making a coffee table as a present for my mother.
The orginal idea was biscuit joined pine to get the width I want but the panels I made (560mm square) ended up with a 3mm bow even though the timber came out the sash clamps flat.
I am not happy with this and want to start again.
Plan B is a checker board design using 50mm pieces of pine & jarrah.
Has anyone ever done something like this?
I would plan on biscuit joining the lot (obviously a truck load of joints but I could cheat a little by slotting the timber prior to cutting) and maybe even using a base board of some kind for extra strength.
Hoping for some comments about such an idea and tips about how I can make sure it turns out flat.
Cheers
Smidsy
-
26th May 2004 06:17 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
26th May 2004, 06:49 PM #2
Have you thought about using veneered chipboard/MDF?
Just edge it with real timber to cover the chipboard/MDF.
Nice flat top, easy to do
-
26th May 2004, 07:00 PM #3
Sprog
Before you discard the bowed pine panels, have you thought about planing them flat? You can do this with either a hand plane or a router.
Regards from Perth
Derek
-
26th May 2004, 07:03 PM #4
When I was at school, I did a chess board. I joined 8 pieces of alternating jarrah and light wood (can't remember what it was). Glued it up. This was before biscuits. When dried, I did 9 cross cuts. This gives you the appropriate number of pieces that are alternating colours. Shift each alternating board up 1 timber width and this gives you the chequer board look. Glue these up and when dry cut off the end bits. Don't forget when to allow for the width of the saw cut when doing the cross cuts, otherwise your peices won't be square.
Does this make sense?Photo Gallery
-
26th May 2004, 07:31 PM #5Originally Posted by derekcohen
It is not me with the bowed panels
-
26th May 2004, 08:19 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2003
- Location
- Central Coast, NSW
- Posts
- 3,330
Smidsy, I'd add to Derek's comments about not throwing the pine top out. 3mm over the width of a table is not much bend. Why dont you consider putting a couple of braces along the bottom - across the width of the board. These will have the effect of pulling the board flat. Just make sure you allow for seasonal expansion/contraction of the top, which will occur across its width regardless of whether it is noticeable or not. One way to do this is to screw the braces on, but using slots not screw holes, and doing the screws up tightish but not real tight.
Of course it may be hard to hide the braces from view - depends upon the design.
Arron
-
26th May 2004, 09:44 PM #7
Maybe the bow is too much, and maybe you will have to plane it flat.
But you must try something first. Get a damp/wet towel or two. Put the glued-up panel on top of the towels, concave side down. Then put the whole thing in the sun. The moisture is drawn up, moistening the concave side (and expanding it) whilst drying out the top (convex) side and contracting it. I'll bet a carton of beer that before long it is bowing the other way. Warning: it might not take long! An hour or two maybe depending on how much heat gets to it.
Now, what you do with it after it is flat is your business ...
I had a similar situation last year. After I got my panel flat I made sure I kept it out of the sun and in a place with relatively constant temperature and humidity. Then after I finished the job I made sure I sealed it well, and it stays inside anyway so isn't subject to the same temperature changes as it was in my shop. It still moves a bit, but nobody notices except me.
ICRThere is no lack of skill or talent that cannot be compensated for by some jig or machine.