Thread: Making Internal Stairs - only 2 treads - Stair Makers want a bomb!

I could get the timber down to Cremorne, have some dressed 40 and 50mm thick brushbox that is ready to go, or could look at finding blackbutt and dressing for you, also red mahogany or flooded gum are possibilities, perhaps maple.
But you would have to finish and cut the curves and fit.... that is where the cost comes in, not the timber.
send me a pm with timber sizes you need if you want and I'llg et a quote for you
Greg

re discussion about flight lengths, here is a table from TFM, Vic, from mid 90's:

Scan.jpg

Cheers,
TM

I am curious how you would do the curved ends- groove the inside and bend?

Curving the riser is a standard stairmaking ask, I've done a fair few.

As the poster above said, you simply kerf the inside of the piece every 4-6mm and bend. But to make it solid it needs a plywood box with a curved front to bend it around and glue to.

For a real challenge I once took on a commission to make a spiral stringer. Laminating 12" wide veneers around a 4" form ......... didn't work.

Ended up making in solid wood using segments. Took months and I lost a sodding fortune.

Hi edge audio,
How did you get on with the second quote?
I've been watching with interest to see how others would approach building this style of stairs, it seems the thread has gone a bit off track tho.
The way I would approach the stairs is as follows. Keep the rises and tread the same as existing set, don't forget to allow for floor coverings at top or bottom of stairs. Ie if you are planning to have carpet at bottom of stairs I would make the first riser say 15mm higher to allow for the thickness of underlay and carpet.
I would then make a box out of 25mm structural ply as one box(not two). I would then overlay the box with 19-32mm hardwood glued with ultraset (timber floor overlay glue, this would be my only choice) provided that you can clamp/hold timber on you won't need any fixings. I've done a set of stairs this way before and not had a problem. Don't forget you will need to secure stairs to floors when you install some how. Also a nosing at the end of the timber floor at top would make a nice transition from top floor level into stairs and should be allowed for at design stage.
The best approach would be to do a full size layout before you start. Let us know how you get on.
Jrock

Originally Posted by jrock_au

Hi edge audio,
How did you get on with the second quote?
I've been watching with interest to see how others would approach building this style of stairs, it seems the thread has gone a bit off track tho.
The way I would approach the stairs is as follows. Keep the rises and tread the same as existing set, don't forget to allow for floor coverings at top or bottom of stairs. Ie if you are planning to have carpet at bottom of stairs I would make the first riser say 15mm higher to allow for the thickness of underlay and carpet.
I would then make a box out of 25mm structural ply as one box(not two). I would then overlay the box with 19-32mm hardwood glued with ultraset (timber floor overlay glue, this would be my only choice) provided that you can clamp/hold timber on you won't need any fixings. I've done a set of stairs this way before and not had a problem. Don't forget you will need to secure stairs to floors when you install some how. Also a nosing at the end of the timber floor at top would make a nice transition from top floor level into stairs and should be allowed for at design stage.
The best approach would be to do a full size layout before you start. Let us know how you get on.
Jrock

Great advice Jrock.

What you suggest is very close to what is going to happen. Still waiting for final quotes to come in but as advised by a few members here, maybe the current quotes aren’t as exuberant as first thought .
That said I would still like to have a go at the project myself with a bit of professional prep work to back it up.
I started during the Week-End to source some suitable timber but didn't get far locally. I have a few options still to explore
.