Thread: Joint Layout

My rule is: if dimensions are critical, calculate them.

Scale drawings are nice, but it's always more accurate to work them out mathematically than to measure off a drawing, especially with angles.

Coming in late here, Chris.

I just want to emphasise what Ian mentioned earlier, that the way dovetail was made is not structural. To be structural it needs to prevent the sides from pulling away from each other, and this would require that the "dovetail" be turned on its side and become a sliding dovetail joint. I do see the point of a dovetail in a different structural sense. It is just an alternative to what I have done ... perhaps easier.

In my own saw till, the front is rounded at the top and doubles as a handle rest. It is simply morticed into the sides (to prevent it being pushed out). The carcase is dovetailed (that's where the strength lies).



I like the look of the till you are building. An extra drawer below is always handy.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Chris

If you scribe lines along two sides of a dovetail on the open drawer, then those lines will be parallel to the top and bottom edges of the front panel. That panel is definitely dovetailed, top and bottom.

I also think that the grain orientation in the stiles is sub-optimal for dovetails. Derek's suggestion of mortice joints might be better. Even dowells or dominoes.



Cheers

Graeme

Thanks for all the wise advise and knowledge, this is the till I am trying to build.......

http://shead-custom-design.com/projects/saw-till

I noticed a few structural issues when I first looked at it and gave the DT's the flick using dowels instead. The top bar DT's are going to be changed to a dowell or domino joint as well for the same reason. I changed for the dowells not primarily because of the bad design more for my inability to deal with my 3D issues cutting the DT's, my brain just does not allow it to happen.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Coming in late here, Chris.

I just want to emphasise what Ian mentioned earlier, that the way dovetail was made is not structural. To be structural it needs to prevent the sides from pulling away from each other, and this would require that the "dovetail" be turned on its side and become a sliding dovetail joint. I do see the point of a dovetail in a different structural sense. It is just an alternative to what I have done ... perhaps easier.

In my own saw till, the front is rounded at the top and doubles as a handle rest. It is simply morticed into the sides (to prevent it being pushed out). The carcase is dovetailed (that's where the strength lies).



I like the look of the till you are building. An extra drawer below is always handy.

Regards from Perth

Derek

What's that sitting below it on the wood platform Derek?

It is a Millers Fall #74C mitre box, shown at the rear (below) - a BIG mother. It is the absolute best mitre box, here with matching saw (all 28" of it). I sold it recently as I just was not using it. Happily a Perth format has taken it over, and will love and cherish it.

The one I do use is a tiny Millers Falls #115. The one pictured at the front has since been restored, and is beautiful ...



This is the restoration, with the 16" mitre saw I made ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

I wondered briefly if it was some sort of saw guide but then thought it couldn't be - I've never seen one like it. Not that I have seen many at all.

The pic of it with the saw - yep it definitely deserves the capitals in BIG.

The little one is beautiful. And with the saw it's almost sexy

Thanks Derek

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

Thanks for all the wise advise and knowledge, this is the till I am trying to build.......

http://shead-custom-design.com/projects/saw-till

gave the DT's the flick using dowels instead. The top bar DT's are going to be changed to a dowell or domino joint as well
I changed for the dowells ... primarily because of ... my inability to deal with my 3D issues cutting the DT's, my brain just does not allow it to happen.

nothing wrong with dowels, especially for workshop furniture.
I used Miller dowels on mine.