Joints for 'hall' table project

**ReCycle** · 2nd December 2007, 01:12 AM

So, the time is fast approaching where work will be forgotten about for a few weeks and spending time in the workshop will be foremost in my mind (and probably with my family but not for the same reasons!).

Recently I was given some old bridge timber measuring about 3m x 330mm x 125mm (I believe its karri) and am thinking that I'd like to build a 'hall' table using three sections. Its not going to be huge (ripping recycled karri would be too costly) but rather I'm going to build it to fill a spot.

The question I have is, would the best joint for fitting the (two) legs to the top be a hidden mortise and tenon?

As mentioned, its going to be a simple rustic table constructed with a top measuring about 2300 x 300 x 100mm and legs of similar dimensions (excepting the length - of course).

Any advice and suggestions would be welcomed.

**billrule** · 2nd December 2007, 01:45 AM

So....solid ends as legs? like an inverted "U" shape? (from your dimensions)

Bill

**ReCycle** · 2nd December 2007, 01:50 AM

Yep - figure they'd be about 150 - 200mm in from either end..... realizing that these won't be the easiest to do, but figuring that they'd be the strongest....

**artme** · 2nd December 2007, 07:35 AM

Make sure you don't have any grit and dirt in that timber to ruin your tools.

If you are unsure I'd suggest you get a high pressure water blaster and work it over.

Keep us posted.

**Honorary Bloke** · 2nd December 2007, 07:51 AM

Originally Posted by ReCycle

The question I have is, would the best joint for fitting the (two) legs to the top be a hidden mortise and tenon?

.

IMO, yes, a mortise and tenon would be appropriate. It can be hidden, or even a through tenon if you like the look. But, don't make one long tenon, but actually two or three smaller ones. Still strong, but less likely to cause wood movement issues.

If you don't minds the legs slightly proud of the top, you can use a dado. With no aprons for bracing, you want a good, solid join and I assume the table will not be subjected to lateral stress? You might consider a "hidden" brace piece under the top stretching between the legs, or even two of them, but set back so they do not show.

**ReCycle** · 2nd December 2007, 09:23 AM

I'll be sure to get it as clean as possible - particularly during and after the removal of the old bolts that were used in the original construction of the bridge.

I'll post photos and progress reports as I go...

**ReCycle** · 2nd December 2007, 09:32 AM

Cheers Honorary Bloke - I'll cut a few in some smaller scrap wood to refine my 'skill' in this area. Is the direction of the tenons of relevance (would it be stronger if they're parallel to the direction of the table top or not...)?

**AlexS** · 2nd December 2007, 02:07 PM

Originally Posted by ReCycle

Is the direction of the tenons of relevance (would it be stronger if they're parallel to the direction of the table top or not...)?

The greater long-grain to long-grain areas that can be glued, the stronger the joint will be. This usually means that the tenons run in the direction of the grain.
You could also do wedged through tenons. If you do. the wedges run across the grain.

**ReCycle** · 2nd December 2007, 02:55 PM

But of course - thanks for the reminder

....

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