Thread: Laminating native veneer for teapot handles

Try Bunnings for ya glue, I've seen it in a few bunnings store and noticed that it usually sits in a less prominent spot somewhere. Have you considered using bent sticks instead? Plenty around if your looking. Good luck

you may think sticks aren't strong enough but let me asure you that Blue Gum sticks (branchs) about 10mm thick and 120mm long are very hard to break with both hands, just a thought

I think it's got an "h" in it somwhere
astrid
ps why are you trying to laminate the handles
try using a solid piece of timber, I assume that you are leaving an attachment point on the tea pot.
make a handle of solid timber, use a sanding drum on a drill or dremmle to carve the shape and fit the wood to the ceramic by shaping the hole in the ends of the handle to fit the"Knobs" you shape on the tea pot.
fit together with a heat resistant araldite,
i wish we had a drawing tool on this.

if you kind of understand what I'm talking about I'll atempt a clearer post

astrid

The above suggestions are fine BUT you should be patted on the back for trying the lamination trip. You'll never, never, know if you never, never, have a go.
I'm not sure polyurethane glue is the best for laminating.
Look up Nightingale chemicals on the net and good luck!

G'day,
I've used Titebond Polyurethane for laminating with fair success.
Available from the usual places.
Sands well when cured too

sorry if Im missing somthig but it seem to me that trying to laminate wood onto a ceramic handle is a very unsound idea. bettr to build a solid handle than try to stick veneer onto ceramic.
astrid

nature abhors a vacuum.

Jerry

G'day astrid,
I reckon Tea Lady might be laminating veneers into the handle shape and then attaching them to the pot......which isn't a bad idea, if you can get the resulting laminate to go into the ceramic pot & stay there. ( no knowledge of that process)
Just my reading of her question

Yes, I'm laminating veneer into handle shapes. I tried to attach photos to my post but hey. Its the computer wrestling again. Momentarily got the upper hand. This time for sure. The most successful ones have been in sassafrass, murtel(? isn't in the dictinary. At least not the way I spell it) and cedar. I put in my funny clamping arrangement for you all to laugh at. Anyway I'm off to bed now . Got to get up early to go to Bunnings again.

Hi Tea Lady

Firstly Welcome

It looks to me as if you're doing a good job on the handles

I was going to suggest a Cross Link (D3 Bond) Adhesive. It has very high water resistance when it has cured. Application is the same as any PVA with water clean up

I have a number of customers using crosslinking PVA for laminating benchtops etc from a wide variety of timbers.

Plenty of brands available. If you must go to Bu...... try a small container of Aquadhere Exterior PVA or similar.

A good test that a stair manufacturer does, laminate some timber (scrap) together, let it cure for the recommended time then put it in a bucket of water for a couple of weeks. It should not come apart or reconstitute

Well, I think we've all got a handle on what you are up to.
Myrtle, btw.

I have tried crosslink pva and exterior pva+ but they both seem to give up a bit to often. Am on;y getting one out of three working. I think because I am doing curved lamination the pva is to flexable and gradually the wood wins. Also a bit serceptable to me clamping to tight. Have to back of on doign those nuts up to tight. Its just so tempting to do screws up as tight as you can. Another problem is that I would like to try some more exotic timber too. Ive got some black bean that is the border between the sap wood(which is pale) and the centre (which is dark), that would make really cool stripy handles, which of course pva just slides right off of. ( I am aware of toxic nature of sawdust. That is how I found you guys in the first place, googeling blackbean. Also black wood and ebony and .. and...

Hi Tea Lady


Love that nifty jig you've made! Very nice work!!

Having read this thread and having a good look at the pictures, I wonder if you might get some success from steam bending as well.

I would suggest, if this interests you, looking into how the oval/round shaker boxes are made. They are steam bent and are reminiscent of the shape and thickness you are working to achieve consistently.

This is a good picture .

A good Shaker box website

Cheers
Wendy

Yes, I guess steam bending would eliminate the glue problem. Whole 'nother can o' worms though?