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  1. #1
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    Default Will MiterSet work with Dewalt DWE7491XE and/or Incra v120 Mitre Guide?

    Hi all,

    I’m ready to place my order for MiterSet Package.

    https://miterset.myshopify.com/produ...et-package-set

    Will MiterSet work with Dewalt DWE7491XE and/or Incra v120 Mitre Guide?

    Thanks in advance,
    Barry G. Sumpter

    P.S.
    I haven't received a reply from the seller as yet.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

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  3. #2
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    Warragul
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    Default

    I can't speak about the Dewalt but I did own the Miterset and sold it. The Incras don't work perfectly because of its expansion rings. You really need two expansion rings to go into the miterset to get a perfect snug fit otherwise it will have some movement. It actually works better with the sort of inferior gauges that come with table saws. I emailed the owner/founder and he said he has had some strange results with the Incras and there have been posts mentioning those expansion rings. Also the miterset needs a gauge with a 3/4" miter bar. Does the Dewalt have 3/4" slots?

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Katoomba NSW
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    Default

    MiterSet is meant to be used with a standard miter gauge. It does not work with some of the large precision gauges from Incra and Kreg.

    From the MitreSet page you linked to.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  5. #4
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    Default

    Hi NCArcher,
    Thanks for the reply.
    I did see that. Hence my query.
    I didn't feel the v120 was large.

    Hi barri,
    Thanks for the reply.
    What a relief to hear from an experienced MiterSet user.

    Yes I was wondering about the distance between the expansion rings on my v120.
    The expansion rings on my v120 were ridiculously hard to adjust.

    The infamous inferior gauge that came with the DWE7491 has too much play.

    I've measure my mitre slots with a digital gauge and see they are 19.4mm and 3/4" converts to 19.5.
    So .1mm off and $250 AU including shipping is enough reason to query.

    I'm thinking the note about the Miter set not working with a specific make and model of table saw is misleading.
    It should read the standard miter gauge that comes with this model of table saw will not fit the Miterset, etc.

    Is there a reason you sold your Miterset that I should consider before buying?

    Thanks again.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  6. #5
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    Default

    Do whaaaaat?

    Links
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Albury
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by barrysumpter View Post
    I've measure my mitre slots with a digital gauge and see they are 19.4mm and 3/4" converts to 19.5.
    3/4" is actually 19.05mm not 19.5mm. For the purposes of woodwork the two measurements are the same. The two spanner sizes are virtually interchangeable.

  8. #7
    Join Date
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    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
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    Default

    Yep. Listending to Google Home Mini. I missed it.


    Reply from Miterset seller:
    ... We work with the V120. If you use the V120 on your Dewalt saw then you should be good. ...
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  9. #8
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    Jul 1999
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    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
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    Default

    Woodturners Resource Segment Calculator

    Untitled.jpg

    Lost my focus for a few while researching.

    I'm thinking the Miterset would help me build these super accurate Wedgie Fences in the pic.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by barrysumpter View Post
    Is there a reason you sold your Miterset that I should consider before buying?

    Thanks again.
    I know you sent me a PM, Barry, but I thought I should mention this publicly. I sold it because it wasn't accurate and wasn't consistent with my Incra 1000SE. I did some trial cuts setting the miterset to 90 and 45 and measuring with a fairly accurate digital protractor. I also measured the 90s using the 5 cut method. I got all sorts readings. 90.1, 90.0, 90.2, 89.9, 89.8, 45.1, 45.0, 45.2 (to one decimal place) etc etc etc. So consistency was a big issue. My inconsistencies were due to those rings. I would slide the fence of the gauge towards the pins and land in a slightly different spot each time.

    I then contacted Jack, the owner in USA and as I mentioned above he said the Incras were giving strange results. Since then they have included that statement about the Kreg's and Incra's which rely on adjustable side mechanisms to get a snug fit in the slots.

    I bought the segments first and when I complained to Jack he unbelievably sent me the standard for nothing just for being unhappy with the mitersets results on the Incra, so I can't complain about the excellent after sales service. I mainly bought the miterset for quickly setting my gauge to 90 and 45, not for segment work and given these inconsistencies and inaccuracy is the reason I sold both. So someone got a bargain. In fairness, they do work well with stock gauges that don't have side mechanisms that are spaced too far apart. Miterset Segments on the Incras might actually be better but I never tried it after being so disappointed with the 90s and 45s. Also they rely heavily on your gauge being a snug fit in the slot on the miterset or having to make sure the gauge rides against one of the edges of the miterset slot. I think this is a design flaw and limits many gauges. Having said that there are many people who love it.

    My advice, for what it's worth, is don't buy it given that you have a good Incra gauge and you mentioned that your stock gauge is poor.

  11. #10
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    Default

    Brilliant!
    Thanks so much for the verbose explaination.
    I'm glad I caught that and asked.
    Much appreciated.

    Along these lines, I just had a really good chat with Sam at Carbatec in Melbourne.

    Explaining I wasn't that happy with the Incra v120.
    Accepting the fact that it was probably my inexperience.

    This was before using the dial gauge to align the blade to the mitre slot.
    Within 2 thou of an inch. (0.0508 mm from: https://www.aqua-calc.com/convert/le...-to-millimeter )

    He also mentioned that 2 thou of an inch is not accurate enough.
    It has to be dead on. (Frak!)



    Sam suggested the following for contractor saws:
    Contractor Saw PALS - In-Line Industries - Woodworking Products
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9Oe...ature=youtu.be

    Now I'm back to: "Am I wanting too much accuracy?"

    can we not build a proper miter track for the miter slot to fit the incra into my Dewalt DWE7491-XE?
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by barrysumpter View Post

    Within 2 thou of an inch.
    He also mentioned that 2 thou of an inch is not accurate enough.
    It has to be dead on. (Frak!)
    What a load of BS! It doesn't have to be dead on, in fact it can change over night due to expansion. The "acceptable" reading is considered to be about 3 to 4 thou. If you've got 2 thou then that's fantastic. I've used table saws with alignments up to 10 thou, in fact Sawstop regard 10 thou as acceptable. I was lucky enough to get a Sawstop for xmas and it was 10 thou out of the box but the cuts were still joint quality smooth, parallel and square. There was no burning and minimal teeth marks. I adjusted it down to under 1 thou, which is easy to do on a Sawstop, and the cuts were only slightly better. So that adjustement might make me feel warm and fuzzy inside it did little for improving the cut quality. So saying it needs to be dead on is ridiculous, after all we aren't doing precise metallurgy here.

  13. #12
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    Default

    Take it easy dude.
    The topic is accuracy.
    I didn't make up the 2 thou accuracy.

    Not "it'll do cause we can't actually afford to calibrate at that accuracy for that price and sell then send it over seas" situation.


    we might be taking his comment out of context.

    My project needs accuracy.
    It's freaking complex.

    I didn't make up the 2 thou accuracy.
    It's on quite a few guidelines in my research.
    Specifically in table saw mitre sled topics.

    His project needs accuracy.
    His projects he was speaking to me about was 50 wedges for making a bowl.
    (something in my head is telling me that each wedge has 2 sides so 50 x 2 = 100 times the inaccuracy)
    His suggestion was over say 20 wedges his accuracy needed to be spot on.
    Especially when he is demonstrating expensive jigs designed for accuracy.

    Again it's probably my lack of proper accuracy experience but others (including yourself above in this thread) have posted here about slight differences in cut accuracy.
    (Which is exactly what I am researching and appreciate your posts explaining your first hand experiences.)
    Depending on how one push ones cuts.
    Which I have (in)experienced many many times on Triton 2000 table saw and Makita LS1216 compound sliding mitre saw.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  14. #13
    rrich Guest

    Default

    I have a suggestion that may save you a lot of money. Use an angle box. (Hear me out.)

    Clamp a piece of ridged ply to the bench top. Put the angle box on the ply and zero it. Put your miter gauge on the ply with the guide bar pointing down. Put the angle box on the side of the miter gauge guide bar. Now a bit of math.

    Subtract from 90° the angle you are trying to hit. Look for that reading on the angle box. If the reading on the angle box is more than 90°, put the angle box on the other of the miter gauge guide bar. If the needed angle is greater than 90° look for that reading on the angle box.

    The Wixey angle box is accurate to 0.1°. That should be more than accurate enough for woodworking purposes.

    Don't give me credit for the technique, I read it in a magazine some years ago.

    With all of that said, I think that it would be easier to make your own jigs (7°12' and 3°36') to cut the angles on the table saw to the required accuracy. Start with a 500 mm piece of ply that has two corners squared off of the 500 mm edge. With the leading edge off set from the fence (31.453 mm for 3°36' and 63.165 mm for 7°12') make a cut through the ply. It is important that the trailing corner be snugly against the fence and the leading edge be offset at the corner from the fence at a (right) 90° angle. I used simple trigonometry to calculate the offset needed. The angles are derived from 50 wedges to make a circle 3.6° and 7.2° or 3°36' and 7°12'.

    The Tangent of 3°36' is 0.06291 and 7°12' is 0.12633. (CRC Abridged Tables, 12th edition)

    The math is 500 mm x Tangent = Offset. Adjust the 500 to the actual length of the edge.

    One last bit of work. With the angled side of the jig against the fence cut the short side square to the angle Then attach a push fence to the edge that is squared to the angle edge. This will give you a consistent length of wedge.

  15. #14
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    The other thing I forgot to mention is that even if the blade is "slightly" out of parallel to the slots then that doesn't mean you can't produce perfect segments. As long as the fence of your miter gauge/sled is perfectly 90 degrees to the slots (not the blade) then any cuts from that gauge will only have slightly wider kerfs but still have accurate angles. Sort of acts like a wobble blade or equivalent to cove cutting on a table saw

    I'm sorry for getting carried away but I now believe and have seen that blade to slot alignment while important and assuming its not too big is overrated as a setting on your table saw.

  16. #15
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    Hi rrich,
    Thanks for the verbose suggestion.
    Are you posting about a digital Angle gauge?

    I can't follow the rest of your post as I'm not familiar with your numbers.
    If you have a hyperlink to a web page or a youtube vid I'd be very interested in chasing it down further.

    Lucky of me my project is not bowel turning.
    So I don't have to make 20 to 50 cuts for each trial and error.
    And have to worry about pushing my cuts in the exact way each time.
    What a nightmare.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

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