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12th April 2012, 02:40 AM #1
Mitre Saw Blade Advice Needed (Please)
I'm having a late night cleaning up a used compound mitre saw that I was given today. (Yep, given - the price was right.)
It has a 24T blade at the moment and I'd like to change it to a more suitable one for mitre joints on boxes.
I figured a 40T would be pretty good, and have my eye on a DeWalt Smooth but aren't sure if it will fit.
The DeWalt is the right diameter and the hole is correct, (5/8"/16mm), but I noticed that it has a diamond-shaped printed mark near the centre, maybe implying a diamond-shaped cutout on the back to suit the saw.
My blade has no 'diamond', so I was wondering if the DeWalt will fit.
(The DeWalt blade is on eBay, so I can't see the back. It's $26 delivered, by the way.)
Any help appreciated. Pics of both below:... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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12th April 2012 02:40 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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12th April 2012, 04:50 AM #2Hammer Head
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suggest going for 80t blade for boxes.
asfar as the dewalt does should be ok you can buy a bushing set for a few dollars if they are missing from the packet.
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12th April 2012, 09:48 AM #3
Good one, Gaza. Thanks for the reply.
Last night in my searching I didn't see anything bigger than 40T with a 16mm hole.
Dunno where to try next. The original blade is buckled, too, so I'm out of business for now.
I'll try to find an 80T today.
Now I've been reading all this stuff about the importance of rake angle and such. ????? I think I'll just stick to my hand saws.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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12th April 2012, 09:59 AM #4
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12th April 2012, 08:13 PM #5
I dont think getting an 80T blade for a GMC drop saw is gona make any difference. The quality of the cut is already limited by the quality of the dropsaw. If I was you just get a 40T fine cutting blade with alternate bevel teeth. The Dewalt blade should fit your saw.
I would recommend finding a trade store / saw doctor in your area that can offer sound advice on a correct blade for you. They can supply the necessary bushings.
You can get bushing sets to go from 30mm to 16mm, but I wouldnt like to recommend it as theres not alot left of the sawblade being tightened to the dropsaw.
Also you cant bush the blade from 16mm to a larger bore. The only way to get around that is to get the blade rebored by a good sawdoctor.
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12th April 2012, 08:34 PM #6
The 40t is as fine as you will get for that size blade, The centre is ok for your saw.
As indicated a finer blade would be better but you have to remember that more teeth slower cut and with that GMC saw you may get flex in the machine.Jim Carroll
One Good Turn Deserves Another. CWS, Vicmarc, Robert Sorby, Woodcut, Tormek, Woodfast
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12th April 2012, 10:05 PM #7
Thanks, guys, for the good advice.
I know the quality of the GMC saw and don't expect it to perform perfectly, it's only a stop-gap measure until I can afford a decent sliding compound mitre saw. Meantime..... I tightened up the pivot until there was no play and it just returns and set up the fence and adjustments properly last night. As long as I don't lean on it and take it easy, I might get half-decent cuts (if I'm lucky).
I found another today on eBay, a 60T x 210mm x 30mm (with 16mm adaptor), but if adaptors for 16mm to 30mm are not a good idea, I guess I'll stick with the 40T DeWalt.
I appreciate the help - I'd never even touched a mitre saw until yesterday. It even took me 10 minutes to work out how to get the blade off.
Jim, interestingly, you share my brother's name. He's Jim Carroll too. Makes your name really easy to remember.
... Steve Carroll... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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12th April 2012, 10:22 PM #8Hammer Head
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12th April 2012, 11:05 PM #9
I spotted a packetof half a dozen or so different sizes in the local cheap tools store today. Just washers anyway.
So, 60T with bush vs 40T DeWalt. The answer - I'll buy both. If the 60T gives no trouble, I'll use it for box joints and the 40T DeWalt for GP work.
Thanks all, once again. And thanks to YouTube for teaching me how to set up the saw properly.
I'm still not getting subscription notifications. A PITA.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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15th April 2012, 03:54 PM #10
Just make sure it is for a COMPOUND SAW and not a circular saw.
They spin in opposite directions
Cheers
WolffieEvery day is better than yesterday
Cheers
SAISAY
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15th April 2012, 04:02 PM #11
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15th April 2012, 04:03 PM #12
Wolffie, you're the first to mention this. Thanks heaps.
Just looking back at the pics in my first post, they do spin in opposite directions.
So, an important question - Can I just flip the blade?
The arbor on my saw does not have a diamond or other shape for locating the blade, just flat surfaces, so is there any good reason that it has to go 'printing outwards'?... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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15th April 2012, 04:05 PM #13
Sorry, Kyle, we were typing at the same time.
You've answered my question already.
Excellent, thanks.
I haven't bought the blades yet - waiting for payday. I'll go ahead as planned.
Edit: I'm reminded why I like this place so much - as a rank amateur I'd be lost without the help from all you guys. Thanks again.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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15th April 2012, 04:13 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
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The rake of the blade is important to ensure an easy cut & safe cut, it needs to be a a negative rake on the teeth see here...
Selecting a Blade for a Sliding Miter Saw Video
It is a compound mitre saw but still applies and goes on to explain basic facts about blades.CHRIS
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15th April 2012, 04:35 PM #15
I mentioned this in post #3.
It would be good to choose by rake angle, but I don't have a selection to choose from.
Also, the blades that I've seen haven't mentioned rake angle at all. Do I have to measure blades before buying them?
I reckon I'll buy the two mentioned blades and see how they go.
The advice is getting confusing. Some say 40T, some 80T, some say an adaptor is OK, some say not, etc.
Now, according to the linked video, not one single blade I've looked at is suitable.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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