Thread: mortices in legs for small nightstand (safe distance from edges)

yes it is. even with a router. 6mm is too little for anything. chances are it might crack again during assembly/glueup/transport/usage.

I would be happier with 15-20mm. I like to build anything like a tank lol

you can get away with chisel, just have to do it carefully and slowly.

Another thing I would question is having the mortise only 6mm deep. That's could've been done with a dowel. Perhaps a link to the video would be helpful?

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Agree with the video link request, or even better a copy of the plans for a better response as to how to proceed.

Here is a pic of part of the leg joinery. Hope it is clear enough. The unis are metric, but converted from imperial, where the distance was 1/4 in, so pretty close.

The depth of the mortices is 10 mm as per plan.

Originally Posted by kungsleden

Obviously, there is a "poor" technique in there, but I also think that leaving only 6 mm is asking for trouble, especially if doing this without a router. What do you think?

When your trying to chisel out and take care of an edge splitting like that you should clamp the work to another piece of wood that's held in a vice to give it some strength on the weak side . Did you try that ?

Rob

Originally Posted by auscab

When your trying to chisel out and take care of an edge splitting like that you should clamp the work to another piece of wood that's held in a vice to give it some strength on the weak side . Did you try that ?

Rob

Good idea! Have not tried it. And I only have a tiny metal vice. Building a new workbench is in the plans, got the vices already. But I will keep that in mind. Thanks!

Originally Posted by kungsleden

Hi,

I embarked on my first on-my-own project. It is a small nightstand for which I bought the plans from thewoodwhisperer. The timber is mountain ash, I bought a good lot for a forumer. The dimensions of the pieces I bought did not match the dimensions in the plan so I had to adjust quite a few things. The main issue I encountered is that the mortices in the legs were supposed to be 6 mm from the edges (top/bottom and side). I made those using a cordless drill and chisels to square. I bought a router, but did not feel comfortable using it for that step. Anyway, when squaring with chisels, several times, the 6 mm thin walls cracked. Obviously, there is a "poor" technique in there, but I also think that leaving only 6 mm is asking for trouble, especially if doing this without a router. What do you think?

"good technique" is to leave the leg over long (by up to 50 mm) and to clamp support pieces either side of the leg while chopping the mortice.

Also, perhaps I'm lazy, but I wouldn't be using a loose tenon. a 19 mm square x 19 mm long tenon is pretty easy to cut on the end of a rail. With a bit of practice, you should be able to get what you need off the saw

Originally Posted by ian

"good technique" is to leave the leg over long (by up to 50 mm) and to clamp support pieces either side of the leg while chopping the mortice.

Also, perhaps I'm lazy, but I wouldn't be using a loose tenon. a 19 mm square x 19 mm long tenon is pretty easy to cut on the end of a rail. With a bit of practice, you should be able to get what you need off the saw

The loose tenon was just one possibility the builder wanted to try because he purchased a multi-router (neat machine by the way). I used normal tenons for the top joinery. Much easier.

Originally Posted by kungsleden

Obviously, there is a "poor" technique in there, but I also think that leaving only 6 mm is asking for trouble, especially if doing this without a router. What do you think?

Just tried to put a dovetail in end grain Vic Ash(?) with a router, and the tear-out was terrible.

Changed my mind and opted for a mortise/tenon joint with a mortiser, and even though the wall thickness was circa 7mm it was easily doable.

Originally Posted by kungsleden

Good idea! Have not tried it. And I only have a tiny metal vice. Building a new workbench is in the plans, got the vices already. But I will keep that in mind. Thanks!

You don't absolutely need a vice, I use a couple of G or F clamps and some thick-ish pieces of wood so the piece is self supporting and work toward a stop bolted into the bench top.