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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    cronulla
    Posts
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    Default Newbie Help With Solid Timber Doors Routered Out To Avoid A Veneer - Help Please!

    Hi guys,

    Posting as I am after some help from experienced wood workers. I have been trying to resolve this for weeks.

    I am after spotted gum top cabinet doors in my kitchen but I have been warned not to use solid timber due to cupping.

    People recommend veneer, however I do not like the clear look of veneer as there is not much character.

    1) I was hoping to stick 2 pieces of solid 22mm thick x 300 wide timber together using wood glue then poly over the top (to further bind them), this would be my preferred option, do people think this would lead to issues down the road (if I let the wood sit for 2-3 weeks after milling?)

    If this is not an option

    2) Use the same timber above (22mm thick) stick them together then router out the middle, 10mm deep and stick 9mm plywood in?

    ....I also have some 2200 tall x 500 wide pantry doors which I was looking to do the same with, I am just not sure they would be rigid enough using the 1st method? (hopefully so, as I would prefer to use that method if possible)

    Any advice would be hugely appreciated !

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Country West Oz
    Age
    77
    Posts
    201

    Default

    Welcome to the Forum

    I think solid doors won't look or be any good, frame and panel would be the way to go.
    If you google it, you will find plenty of info on this type of construction
    Regards
    Bradford

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
    Posts
    3,330

    Default

    Frame and panel is the traditional method.
    However:
    I wouldnt give up on veneer just because the stuff you usually see is a bit bland. Ring a veneer- laying outfit like Speciality Veneer Wood Panels in Smithfield and tell them you want some veneer with character - they will understand perfectly.

    Then get some plywood. Edge all round with solid timber of exactle the same thickness as the ply. Cut to door size. Take it to Speciality (or whoever) and get them to press it up. They will press right over the ply and solid wood edge. Generally, getting them to supply and press is less cost then you just purchasing the veneer alone.

    Nice smooth, modern, lightweight doors that wont cup or split or misbehave.

    Preformed veneer-sided ply or mdf products tend to use very bland veneers because they market to the masses. Characterful veneers are available, but usually only as loose leaf.

    Ps no connection with Specialty Veneer Panels - just an ocossional customer.

    Arron

    Pps. I couldnt really understand the options presented in your original post, but poly will ' further bind' nothing - at least not to a useful degree.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    cronulla
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Thanks guys.

    I don't really like the frame and panel look so would not go down that avenue. But thankyou for taking the time to post!

    Will be contacting Speciality Veneer Panel tomorrow!

    Any other similar veneer places? I had been in contact with time4timber previously (who I guess given their range use someone like Briggs for veneers?) but the veneers in the book just looked like 0.8mm ply with minimal feature. ps. Vlad was very easy going.

    I am really after something that looks like solid wood with grain and even minimal vein (yes I am after my cake and want to eat it too!)

    ps. I was previously hoping to just get 2 pieces of recycled 250mm wide (22mm thick) timber and glue them together, leaving for 2-3 weeks after cutting to try and reduce cupping, is this any chance of working?

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
    Posts
    13,315

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by squae View Post
    .....
    ps. I was previously hoping to just get 2 pieces of recycled 250mm wide (22mm thick) timber and glue them together, leaving for 2-3 weeks after cutting to try and reduce cupping, is this any chance of working?

    I am not exactly sure but tending to think it will cup eventually. Is the door going to be enclosed in the cabinet or outside of the cabinet?

    What sort of gap will there be between two opposing doors.

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