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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Mount Gambier, SA
    Posts
    25

    Default One for the newbies - table saws & rust

    Hi all...

    Just thought i would share a small newbie mistake in the hope that it might stop someone else doing somthing daft.

    Don't leave freshly milled green timber on your new Table Saw!! I now am the proud owner of a new saw with an interesting, striped pock mark pattern on the top!! Can't quite belive i didn't relise what would happen!

    Luckily most of it came good with some steel wool... just hate to think what it might have done if left for more than one night!

    Cheers all

    Pete

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Victoria,Australia
    Posts
    303

    Default

    I'm pretty sure that a spray of silicon may help.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    11,997

    Default

    Sad to see rust on a good tool isn't it

    I have found Inox is very good when used with a fine scourer pad.

    (silicone sprays, although good for rust removal/prevention, may get into the timber and cause problems with finishes)

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Redlands area, Brisbane
    Posts
    1,490

    Default

    Silicon is a very bad idea. It will effect many finishes that you may use on the timber later. With acrylic lacquer it will cause "fisheye" effects.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Sydney,Australia
    Posts
    3,157

    Default

    And if you use those gloves with the rough rubberized finish to help pick up large pieces of timber, don't leave the gloves on your table either - you get more than a hand print of rust. Been there, had to fix that.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Brookfield, Brisbane
    Posts
    5,800

    Default

    clean the rust off and coat the serfise with a clear varnish and it will never happen again.

    www.carlweiss.com.au
    Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
    8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Over there a bit
    Age
    17
    Posts
    2,511

    Default

    aaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhggggggggggg Silicon
    Boring signature time again!

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,803

    Default

    Can confirm real problems with "silicone" (silicon is a solid element and looks like a metallic rock - it can be sprayed onto surfaces but needs ~$1 million bit of kit to do so)

    A few years ago I was accidentally using a silicone impregnated rag to remove the finish from a chest of drawers I was restoring. The rag had been used to polish a car with a cut and paste silicone wax - problem was both the rag and wax were the same orangey-pink colour(definitely not a shed protocol colour!). When I applied first coat of poly the result was a mess. Completely sanding back the surface didn't work, the silicone must have impregnated parts of the timber, or the sander just redistributed the silicone all over the place, and the poly would not adhere. In desperation I took the piece out of the shed and polished it using car wax and sent it on its way - it actually came up quite nice and it can be useful if you want a hard surface. But whatever you do, keep the stuff out of your shed.

    BTW I use trad wax or camelia oil on my machines. And currently my shed smells of rancid canola oil from a leaking chainsaw

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    5,513

    Default

    You don't get these problems with saw tops with a Triton
    "Clear, Ease Springs"
    www.Stu's Shed.com


  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Hallidays Point - the land of blackbutt and swamp mahogany
    Posts
    412

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart. View Post
    You don't get these problems with saw tops with a Triton


    ... you do once you scratch through the paint!!
    "... it is better to succeed in originality than to fail in imitation" (Herman Melville's letters)

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Southern Brisbane, QLD
    Posts
    236

    Default

    I'm taking delivery of some machinery soon and won't be able to take a trip to carbatec for some silverglide or traditional wax for a wee while - in the mean time, would applying WD40 or CRC 5.56 protect the table from rust without causing problems with the timber?

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    11,997

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jisk View Post
    I'm taking delivery of some machinery soon and won't be able to take a trip to carbatec for some silverglide or traditional wax for a wee while - in the mean time, would applying WD40 or CRC 5.56 protect the table from rust without causing problems with the timber?
    I'd use a lanolin spray instead. I would not use WD40 as in the past I have had rust form on tools it was sprayed on (quite badly).

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Sydney,Australia
    Posts
    3,157

    Default

    It won't prevent rust in the mid to long term, specially WD40. Great for getting water out of sparkplug leads, motors etc, but it DISPLACES water, not gets rid of it. Once the WD40 starts to evaporate, the corrosion is as bad or worse than ever. Floor wax is probably better - remember 'polish on, polish off'.

    If you are getting machinery delivered from Carbatec, why not ask them to stick a can of silverglide in the box - they stock it.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Bega
    Age
    69
    Posts
    40

    Default

    Found lanolin spray to be the best protection. The others are just glorified diesel.
    Anglewood.
    Some get older and wiser,others just get older.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    80
    Posts
    16,560

    Default

    And where might one find lanolin spray?

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