Thread: Noob (newbie) tips

get used to using a marking knife or awl for marking out, it leaves a finer line than a pencil and try to master all aspects of the handplane. Sand paper is messy, more expensive, because it a throw away item, and leaves a vastly inferior finish. Wood sanded is as rough as a cat's tongue whereas a planed surface is like silk.

Jerry

Nice one Jerry. I just ordered a marking knife and awl. I have been avoiding the handplane but I think it is time to take the plunge.

If it doesn't fit.....get a bigger hammer.

Before you go and buy one, think of your budget; how you will use it; and most importantly how you will sharpen it. Many woodworkers buy a plane either new or in lousy condition and get frustrated with the whole idea. Mass produced planes such as Record or Stanley are adequate. Best thing to do is to do some reading before spending. As I said earlier. you need to master all aspects of a plane. It's not a mystical religious thing but does need a little understanding. Once you start you are lost.. I own eight planes and each has it's purpose. one that I use a great deal is a block plane. Is a little joy to use even for small tasks.

Jerry

Some little points on planes:
1. Each has its specific use. Don't mix intended use and what you think you will do.
2. Assume the plane you buy is blunt.
3. Always sharpen it. It is only sharp if you can cut yourself by thinking of touching the blade edge.
4. Don't use a grinding wheel to sharpen it. Use a good quality oil stone. They are expensive.
5. learn the concepts of wood grain and its direction. Something electric planes don't understand.

Chisels:
1. Treat them like friends.
2. Keep them sharp like the plane blade.
3. Sharpen them on a oil stone. NOT a grinding wheel.
4. use a wooden mallet not a hammer.

Pencils:
1. Always keep it to the same degree of bluntness. Sharp pencils always go blunt.
2. Have spares and lots. Pencils always vanish at the most important point of marking up.

Clamping:
1. When in doubt clamp the piece. Its bound to do a runner on you otherwise.

Specials:
Keep SHWBO outa the shed especially if they are a tidy freak
(I did not say that honest really!!)

Good tips Cultana. I am going to compile these when the thread runs it's coarse.

I have thought of a few more:

• One for Triton fans - if using a dust bag on the table saw or workcentre make sure the opening for the air vents on the saw is clear. Learnt this one the hard way
• When routing end grain it is useful to place a piece of scrap behind the piece to minimise tearout
• where possible rout all components then cut to size
• check tools for square regularly

Keep 'em coming fellow wood fiends....

Originally Posted by metester

• When routing end grain it is useful to place a piece of scrap behind the piece to minimise tearout

i like that tip, why didnt i think of that

check tools for square regularly

yes, especially the damn triton saw benches.... im about to phase mine out, damn thing needs re setting up every time i roll it out to use

Got to agree about the Triton but unfortunately it is the price I pay for having a dual purpose garage, workshop and gym! Space is like gold. The Triton rolls away nicely under my workbench on a caddy I made for it.

Originally Posted by Andrew_B

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yes, especially the damn triton saw benches.... im about to phase mine out, damn thing needs re setting up every time i roll it out to use

I would take it off you but by the time I pay for it and the transport I might just as well buy a new one..
But I suppose it has a deeper cut than the little one I use very occasionally.

Originally Posted by metester

When routing end grain it is useful to place a piece of scrap behind the piece to minimise tearout

Actually using a scrap piece applies to routing, cutoff saws, drilling and so on. Anytime a cutting tool passes through/out the end of the timber you get tear outs of one form or another.

Originally Posted by metester

Got to agree about the Triton but unfortunately it is the price I pay for having a dual purpose garage, workshop and gym! Space is like gold. The Triton rolls away nicely under my workbench on a caddy I made for it.

yea thats the only good thing about the unit, can be moved and folded down,

another thing with tritons, dont let the old man near them, cut into the alu channel and wrecked a few blades

Originally Posted by cultana

Actually using a scrap piece applies to routing, cutoff saws, drilling and so on. Anytime a cutting tool passes through/out the end of the timber you get tear outs of one form or another.

im sure we all know the theory,
but i didnt really ever think to apply the use to saws and routers

Originally Posted by Andrew_B

another thing with tritons, dont let the old man near them, cut into the alu channel and wrecked a few blades

What didn't you buy a special non ferrous blade to use??

im sure we all know the theory,
but i didnt really ever think to apply the use to saws and routers

Good grief Charlie Brown!!!

I suppose this calls for the blatant obvious:
Have more than one blade. Blades for the different jobs.

Originally Posted by cultana

Have more than one blade. Blades for the different jobs.

and hide them

hahaha

I would also add that all blades need to be sharp. Don't perservere with a blunt blade as it will simply add to the frustration, time and quality of cut. I was reminded of this just recently when using my jigsaw on Tassie Oak. A quick blade change bought an instant smile to my face .