Thread: OREGON Not the place

It turns Ok, but does tend to tear out, I use it a lot for jam fit plugs (pepper grinders etc). I built my work bench out of it as well, good strong and stable.

It has been banned now I believe from outdoor use, due to it rotting at the joints. I have found it is Ok outdoors, but you need to keep it painted for protection, but as soon as you have a break in the protection it rots. Most of the stuff I have is from old pergolas that have failed at the joints - at the old tip shop many years ago I got an entire pergola from 150x50 for around $10, plenty of good 2m sections between the rotten bits.

The question should be more what do you want to build. Depending on the rings per inch you can do some very fine work in Fir. Attached are pics a few pieces I've done over the years. Some good some not so but you can see that it lends itself to many situations. It all depends on rings per inch - the more the better. It's kinda boring as a turing wood - except as legs.

I would love to find a supply here to build a plantation desk as the grain suites the style very well. You'll have to look up on google what a plantation desk is.

You'll want to decide on a stain as natural isn't its best colour. You can get away with it but it's better if you at least put a little colour on it.

This was a 1600 x 150 x 50 qtr sawn Oregon board. Beautiful straight linear grain. I ripped it into veneer and made this torsion box chair. As Toolin said, it would be fantastic to get a nice supply of quality Oregon. A very underated furniture timber

Ps- Nice work Toolin

Originally Posted by Toolin Around

The question should be more what do you want to build. Depending on the rings per inch you can do some very fine work in Fir. Attached are pics a few pieces I've done over the years. Some good some not so but you can see that it lends itself to many situations. It all depends on rings per inch - the more the better. It's kinda boring as a turing wood - except as legs.

I would love to find a supply here to build a plantation desk as the grain suites the style very well. You'll have to look up on google what a plantation desk is.

You'll want to decide on a stain as natural isn't its best colour. You can get away with it but it's better if you at least put a little colour on it.

Toolin.

Did you make those chess pieces, if you did, how did you do it? Where they hand carved or what?.

They look beaut.

Some nice stuff there fellas.

Thanks Neil & Toolin

The bench idea has me going to also a Tool Cabinet

Toolin Nice work tahnks for the photo's

I could source enough to make all of those things including the Entertainment unit a reno happening near by.

With out a way to rip the board's which were main beams form a house I'm stuck.

The timber has nice grain as to distance of rings they are quite a distance.

Hi Wheelin,

I really like Oregon, it is fairly light weight but very strong. The alternating harder growth rings give it the better strenght over other pine types, (I am told).

Have seen a few dining tables made of Oregon. Looked great. My old workbench top was made of Oregon boards. Actually built some big window frames from Oregon some years ago, (sorry no pics, camera is US).

A mate scored a heap of it and got a carpenter to make an entire bedroon suite out of it, king size bed, the lot. It looked fantastic and a lot less weight than hardwood.

Am sure some members here have made frames for their workbenchs from Oregon too. I would grab whatever I could and store it, down the track you may find a way to rip those beams.

Cheers
Pops

Just using some right now for the bench I'm working on and although I sometimes don't like the trip with it, I do like the destination.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f187/wip-roubo-bench-80636

Cheers
Michael

Originally Posted by wheelinround

Thanks Neil & Toolin

The bench idea has me going to also a Tool Cabinet

Toolin Nice work tahnks for the photo's

I could source enough to make all of those things including the Entertainment unit a reno happening near by.

With out a way to rip the board's which were main beams form a house I'm stuck.

The timber has nice grain as to distance of rings they are quite a distance.

You could always wander it down to me and I could rip it on the TS, then run it thru the the thicknesser . . .

Originally Posted by Pat

You could always wander it down to me and I could rip it on the TS, then run it thru the the thicknesser . . .

If your TS blade is 10" then I'm up for it thats the width of the boards

Ray a 10" blade will have a cutting depth of approx 3" (75mm) and 12" cuts approx 3 5/8 (90mm). So if they boards are true 10" (250mm) thickness, we are in trouble . . . Give us a ring later tonight as I have to go out now to try to get some donations for the Surf Club.

Originally Posted by Pat

Ray a 10" blade will have a cutting depth of approx 3" (75mm) and 12" cuts approx 3 5/8 (90mm). So if they boards are true 10" (250mm) thickness, we are in trouble . . . Give us a ring later tonight as I have to go out now to try to get some donations for the Surf Club.

Ok

Originally Posted by STAR

Toolin.

Did you make those chess pieces, if you did, how did you do it? Where they hand carved or what?.

They look beaut.

Made the whole set. They weren't hard, the design wasn't very complex. Ended up selling for very little when we moved here. It was full of bug holes and such so I didn't want to chance it. Found out the hard way that if I called it simply chess set no one would have ever bothered with it - oh well.

If anyone has enough timber for two I could be conned into making one for you and one for me...

Originally Posted by wheelinround

Ok

If you have one of those big hand held recip saws (Called then saws alls in Canada) with a real course and sharp blade you could cut the rest with that. It would still be a chore but possible. We used a 20" General bandsaw after it went through the 10 TS. In my later years at that job we used a 50 year old Rockwell 14" TS. Was a bit unnerving the first time I pushed anything through it. Never really got used to it - especially when the blade was at full height.