Thread: Oregon table top warp

The warp seems too large to just trim back. Since most of the problem is with one board I would consider sawing down the glue line or perhaps before the warp, and joining a more suitable board to the flat piece.

Rip the boards and joint / thickness again you may end up with 4 boards to edge join but you should be able to bring back to flat if you don't go too thin.

I'd be tempted to just whack it on with plenty of buttons, it's amazing how tops settle............sometimes.

You are in big dodo as the higher authority wants it NOW...

You have 2 fast options and a third to keep you fit..:

1. Make a frame and apologise in full grovelling mode for bad table and promise to make a replacement as fast as all other jobs and real time permits. That should get you at least 12 months to do something.

2. Rip the two boards down the centre but not the current join. Join these two new half boards to the centre section and work from that point.
From the look of the pics the centre sections look ok once the two outer halves are removed. Putting the side pieces back on should remove that dainty curve that is there.

3. Leave it as is and just call it new modern art coffee table, then run.....

What Cultana said!!!

As an addition to his #2 point, turn the two new boards over so the grain is opposite to the one next to it, eg unnu

Another option is to breadboard the ends.

Cheers & Good luck!

Wendy

Thanks all for the tips more Oregon on the way to make a frame as I had run out of long enough bit

thanks goes to Pat for the Oregon.

will post when completed.....I hope.

A good wetting clamped and has straightened up, cut the frame now its raining.

Right first photo tells the story the timber is a poor selection for a table top with regards to grain and there fore stress direction. Top should be selected from timber with the STRAIGHT grain running preferably vertical. True quarter sawn is best .
How do you fix it?
Resaw into a min of 4 boards more is better and reglue in a different order so tendency to cup will be reduced and at worst you will end up with micro corrugations rather than a wave like you have. Yes it will not look as good but it is not exactly looking too good right now either!
Also note that softwoods and Douglas Fir in particular with the grain aligned like it is here is very hard to produce a flat surface on by sanding as the alternate soft bands of timber sand more quickly than the hard one creating a washboard effect.

How to avoid in future?
1 Once timber has been thicknessed leave it to settle in your workshop flat and well ventilated on sawhorses or something for as long as possible I try to wait a month though longer is better.
2 Choose your timber more carefully
3 For situations where flatness is paramount use timbers and grain directions known for their stability and flatness

Constructing a piece of furniture with the intention of fighting or resisting timbers natural movement will always have a consequence and a negative one and is just plain poor wood working. In this case you might get away with it for a time but it is still bad practice.

Rgds

Ross

Originally Posted by Different

Right first photo tells the story the timber is a poor selection for a table top with regards to grain and there fore stress direction.
Only choice available as it was all that remained from a stash I had been given which had been beams in a home built over 15 years ago. When removed stored out side for over 3 months till owner/builder had finished with it. I got it FREE
Then cut to make a Lathe bed for a mini lathe 45mm thick didn't suit no warp twist etc. It had stood in my garage for about 5 weeks before being cut into the table top as stated that was back in August (is that long enough). Put through planner etc, dry assemble sat in my garage till moved in doors for its own protection mid Sept late Sept for a week came back to ind the first large cup. Took care of that

Top should be selected from timber with the STRAIGHT grain running preferably vertical. True quarter sawn is best . How boring prefer grain that speaks volumes.

How do you fix it?
Resaw into a min of 4 boards more is better and reglue in a different order so tendency to cup will be reduced and at worst you will end up with micro corrugations rather than a wave like you have. Pattern doesn't match that way and would look shyte. Yes it will not look as good but it is not exactly looking too good right now either! It will improve and look as we want it o used old and with grain we can admire.

Also note that softwoods and Douglas Fir in particular with the grain aligned like it is here is very hard to produce a flat surface on by sanding as the alternate soft bands of timber sand more quickly than the hard one creating a washboard effect. Yep add's texture and wamth and feel to a surface, but it can be as I did to another coffee table finished not long before I started this on flat smooth and still that way. As is the hall table.

How to avoid in future?
1 Once timber has been thicknessed leave it to settle in your workshop flat and well ventilated on sawhorses or something for as long as possible I try to wait a month though longer is better. Hum August to November not long enough NOTED
2 Choose your timber more carefully Always as long as its not boring dull and lacking life.
3 For situations where flatness is paramount use timbers and grain directions known for their stability and flatness I have seen many Oregon coffee tables all looked great even those which had been heat treated with a flame thrower oiled or waxed they feel great with wavy grain structure.

Constructing a piece of furniture with the intention of fighting or resisting timbers natural movement will always have a consequence and a negative one and is just plain poor wood working. In this case you might get away with it for a time but it is still bad practice.

Rgds

Ross

Thanks for your in put all these things you said were consider with the timber available and what we were after discussed between 3 people LOML, Fletty who milled and cut and prepeared to dry assemble stage. The only regret is the thickness of the top could not be left at 40mm.

Not true regret leaving it in the house unfinished for so long. This weather doesn't help.

Ray


Ps I have in the years gone by seen very expensive wood all cut right glued right do exactly the same thing.
Could I have your view on that!!!

Things are moving along quite well hope to have photo's over the weekend.

Should have had the camera out when the man in business artier used his biscuit jointer for a few Z clip holes. Thanks Fletty