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  1. #1
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    Default Is parfix woodglue water resistant?

    Looking for alternatives to titebond II - anyone know if parfix woodglue from bunnings is suitable? IE water resistant

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  3. #2
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    What sort of application is it for? Will it get direct exposure to the elements? What kind of finish/polish/paint will be on top?

    I believe all exterior grade glues are water resistant, but they'll generally need some sort of protection.

  4. #3
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    Finish likely to be Osmo Poly X or Rubio Monocoat 2C. It will be a dining table - is wiping down with a damp rag a ok with Parfix glue you reckon? Parfix's wood glue says internal use only.

    It is made by Selleys and Sellys' exterior wood glue is $70 for 4L which is approx $17.50 per L! Titebond III is cheaper than that

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-...esive_p1710244

    I suppose I am looking for that value unicorn glue - Parfix is the obvious choice is you dont want water resistance but I dont think I want to stock 2 types of glues and if I want to make something that will get wet (such as a chopping board), I'm going to need water resistance

  5. #4
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    Damp rag is fine with pretty much anything. It's only long term exposure that will need glue that's properly water resistant. My choice is polyurethane for stuff that will get wet.

  6. #5
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    What he said.....polyurethane is better for true exposure to the elements, rain, hail, or shine. I've made several outdoor pieces with it, and all holding up fine 7 years later.

    I now use a variety sold by Monaro Timber (some European polyurethane, rated for use in structural members.....), but if you want to do polyurethane on the cheap (without buying a lifetime's supply of the stuff) you can get tubes of Av Syntec AV515 at most of the big shed hardware stores.

  7. #6
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    Thanks guys. Out of curiosity if you were to make a chopping board what would you use (finished with mineral oil)? Or dining table which may get water/drink spills (finished with poly x)?

  8. #7
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    I tend to use Titebond 3, because it is reasonably cheap and is water resistant.

    That stated, if I was doing something that required extra/extra bonding, I would use epoxy.

  9. #8
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    I'd use PU for both the chopping block and the table. Chopping block because of the water issue and the table because PU glue lines don't creep or become raised over time.

  10. #9
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    What does creep mean? Does wood glue expand over time?

    Is the PU glue you use the construction adhesive out of a caulking gun? (such as zero nails)

  11. #10
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    PVA does swell slightly over time and after a while you will often be able to feel a fine ridge

    The PU we use is liquid in a bottle from these guys https://www.timbatechsolutions.com/t...-products.html they're based in SE Melbourne. We use PU15 and PU60, repending on how much working time we need.

  12. #11
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    I see. If its in a bottle... does that mean it has really short shelf life once opened?

  13. #12
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    It seems to be good for several months after opening, just keep the cap on it

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by cava View Post
    I tend to use Titebond 3, because it is reasonably cheap and is water resistant.

    That stated, if I was doing something that required extra/extra bonding, I would use epoxy.
    Aquadhere External is the same as TiteBond 3, both are d3 crosslinking PVA adhesives. I prefer using aquadere because unlike tightbond its shelf life is not normally half way spent by the time it hits the shelves in Australia.

    For chopping boards, the main difference between d3 PVA glues and epoxy is that epoxy is waterproof, where as PVA is water resistant. Epoxy might be stronger, but for most timbers you will break the timber before you break the glue joint provided the glue joint was done correctly.

  15. #14
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    Aquahere External dries almost clear, whereas Titebond III dries yellow, which can be a pain.

    And polyeurethane glue is the biggest pain of all, the way it bubbles up and expands and is a fair bugger to remove the excess.
    regards,

    Dengy

  16. #15
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    I must admit that I just don't get most of this fuss about glue.

    35 years ago my father made me a table from Tassie Oak using bog standard Selleys Aquadhere (white PVA).
    It was the 3rd or 4th table he made to the same design (the first is older than I am and was still in very good condition when we sold it after his death). The table he made for me held a plastic fish tank for 20+ years and is now with a niece and still going strong.

    for me, critical glue characteristics are: open / assembly time and clamping time.
    unless the finished piece is exposed to the elements or immersed in water, "waterproof" is not really a consideration.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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